Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,751 Posts
KYB for the win!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,635 Posts
Time for struts,I will use the ez assembly but I want to hear recommendations please,thank you
I used these from RA, ~$51 per. OE ride, quality looks good, packing nice, fit nice. Mine 16 year old car, OE ride is fine for me.
My experience with KYB, way too much paint on them and need to remove some from the bottom or they will not slide in the knuckle without much effort. Firmer ride than OE.
-chart-
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
I used these from RA, ~$51 per. OE ride, quality looks good, packing nice, fit nice. Mine 16 year old car, OE ride is fine for me.
My experience with KYB, way too much paint on them and need to remove some from the bottom or they will not slide in the knuckle without much effort. Firmer ride than OE.
-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
All I can say is I installed the Monroe Quick-Struts on the rear of my '04 Sable and they suck in really cold weather. Lose their dampening power. My old ones with 240K miles on them rode better than these.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
Time for struts,I will use the ez assembly but I want to hear recommendations please,thank you
KYB SR4011 Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly $ 57.89 $ 0.00 2 $ 115.78
KYB SR4010 Strut Plus Complete Corner Unit Assembly


Some advice:

Don't do an alignment immediately after you replace those strut. Let the spring settle a few days before you do that.
I ended up paying two alignments in a roll b/c of the this.

Best wishes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
I remember boulderdentist got a good deal from Advance Auto Parts on KYB. See this thread for details
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Monroe QuickStruts on all four corners.
While you're doing the fronts I'd just pull the spindles and do the ball joints at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Time for struts,I will use the ez assembly but I want to hear recommendations please,thank you
I remember boulderdentist got a good deal from Advance Auto Parts on KYB. See this thread for details
I bought a set of KYB front struts that included the springs already installed. What is called a "Quick Kit". I got a good deal on them from RockAuto. I like the ride that they give as they are only slightly firmer than OE. I had previously replaced my ball joints a while before doing the struts and I recommend that you get this done if your Taurus is near the 100K mileage mark; even sooner if you drive on rough roads. I had to use my 12 ton hydraulic press for the ball joints, as getting the old ones out took some effort, they were in tight. I also advise that you mark the position of the old struts where the studs come through, under the hood; this is where the alignment adjustments are made. This will allow you to get the new struts close to where the alignment was set.
As for the struts and the ball joints, I did the jobs in my driveway. Everything went great until it came time to get the strut tube inserted unto the lower control arm. I couldn't get enough room to get the tube inserted because the lower control arm was hitting the sub-frame. I had to drop the sub-frame by loosening the four bolts that hold it in place and dropping it down just enough to get enough clearance, I didn't need much, but it was a big PITA.
I did the job by myself, but it would be a lot easier for two people, one holding down on the control arm while one positions the strut tube into the control arm. Having a 1/2 inch drive air ratchet or a good electric one would be a big help on loosening and tightening the sub-frame bolts. I advise that you use a torque wrench for the sub-frame bolts to make sure that they're tight enough. I found that a hydraulic floor jack was necessary when lowering and raising the sub frame, a long pry bar came in handy, too. I did this job on my 2002 SES with the Duratec engine; the ride is great, but it took some effort. Good luck and stay safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
I was hesitant to put too much torque on the sub-frame bolts to loosen them from the rust we suffer from here in the Rust Belt. Been stories of the blind nut breaking loose inside the frame...and, that creates a whole 'nother problem. I simply removed the bolts from both ends of the control arm and pulled it outward enough to gain room to remove and install the bottom of the strut.

Not quite sure I understand your advice about making note of the location of the upper strut mtg bolts for alignment purposes. There is only one way the strut can be mounted...and, I don't recall oversized holes for the three studs that would allow for any adjustment.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top