[chartmaker]

The risk is I have no idea of the condition of the shaft at the point where the threads are gone. Could be cracking of the shaft due to over torque condition. The nut went on and didn't pull the threads until it was torqued.

Yes but: the threads doing the work will be inboard of the bad threads. I am sure there is a reason for the threads to be that long sticking out but they are only useful during installing.
-chart-

 

[Nails.Sch]

The risk is I have no idea of the condition of the shaft at the point where the threads are gone. Could be cracking of the shaft due to over torque condition. The nut went on and didn't pull the threads until it was torqued.

No ... and I have such an idea of that condition. The threads were damaged during disassembly. (Gotta remove the axles to remove the transaxle.) Metal from the shaft was seized to the nut for a couple turns, plowing out those threads. There's still allochthonous metal that I need to clean out of some threads, outboard of the damaged threads.

Yes but: the threads doing the work will be inboard of the bad threads. I am sure there is a reason for the threads to be that long sticking out but they are only useful during installing.
-chart-

No, the inboard threads will be inside the bearing. I'll either put a washer between the nut and bearing (to back the nut out to good threads) or see whether a new nut will torque despite missing some threads, and then install a second backup nut to ensure nothing falls apart down the road.

 

[chartmaker]

No ... and I have such an idea of that condition. The threads were damaged during disassembly. (Gotta remove the axles to remove the transaxle.) Metal from the shaft was seized to the nut for a couple turns, plowing out those threads. There's still allochthonous metal that I need to clean out of some threads, outboard of the damaged threads.



No, the inboard threads will be inside the bearing. I'll either put a washer between the nut and bearing (to back the nut out to good threads) or see whether a new nut will torque despite missing some threads, and then install a second backup nut to ensure nothing falls apart down the road.

There should be no threads in the bearing inner race. The shaft to bearing is a precision fit and carry load, the threads should not be in there.
-chart-

 

[Nails.Sch]

Okay, you're right that the seized part was near the outboard end of the nut, not inboard. (See photo on page three.) The threaded section extends a half inch past the bottom of the nut.

I don't know ... I think two nuts will work fine. But I probably should bite the bullet and replace the whole half-axle. I've already spent money that wasn't strictly necessary, trying to keep the car right instead of all ghetto.

I do wish someone would weigh in on whether this transaxle will be as difficult on the jack as I fear. I can't even find a rental jack in Albuquerque, and I'm looking at $400 or more to buy what I think I minimally need. I'm surprised that every tool-rental shop doesn't carry them -- like they all did in the Good Old Days. I give up trying to make my floor jack into something that would work. I'll probably just have to do the best I can with "a little help from my friends", letting the trans down onto blocks and then sliding it out with the subframe. Then a lot of cussing to get it back in.

 

[Nails.Sch]

I've been dead in the water, waiting for a transmission jack I ordered on-line. It was supposed to arrive yesterday, but today they told me it was back-ordered until May. It was marked "available" when I bought it, weeks ago. So I'll get the Harbor Freight one and find a way to make it work.
I've been out-of-pocket anyway helping two relatives move and other family matters.
But I kinda miss having the Bull to drive. I've been ready to drop the subframe for far too long.

 

[Nails.Sch]

I've had very limited opportunity to work on this. The subframe is out and the trans jack is in.

On the plus side, I have a good working environment. (I built this shop just last year -- isn't actually even finished yet.)

On the minus side, I'm too old and stiff for this. (Hand me the pacifier, please.) I've been in and out of this pit a hundred times, and there's no way I could do this job without the pit.

Right now, I'm having a spat with the trans coolant lines -- I can't disconnect these damn quick-connects. Presently drinking a beer to calm down before going for a bigger hammer.

Earlier, I wasted a lot of time trying to attach the suspension chains to the left side of the motor. I don't think that's really possible, so I attached them to the trans.

I'll figure out some way to support the left side of the motor (probably a jack from the bottom) long enough to get the trans out. It's sitting on the trans jack now.

I'm also facing a battle with the bell housing bolts. I'll need to move a bunch of crap out of the way.

Did you know that I actually don't much like wrenching?

 

[Architect]

Car seems in an excellent condition though. And with 87k miles definitely worth the trouble. Two new headlamps and for $100 is looks brand new . .

 

[Nails.Sch]

Thanks. Has a couple minor interior blemishes and bad electrical connections in the doors. Would really like to be able to drive it now.

About the damaged CV (mentioned earlier), the boot is too large and now damaged from spinning against something. So a new CV it is, NAPA not the Zone.

Can anyone tell me how these quick-connects are supposed to work? I get squeezing the plastic tabs, but does the plastic slide out, releasing the tube, or does it all come out together? I'll probably have to spin out the receiving unit from the trans.

Currently waiting for the woodburner to warm the shop ... and otherwise battling wrench-attitude failure.

 

[Nails.Sch]

take the transmission to a shop if you dont have a manual to go through it.. chances are, there's metal shards where there shouldn't be.. a complete flush will only ruin the transmission.

Sorry I didn't reply at the time -- still wrapping my head around pulling the trans. I started to call shops, but actually I'm confused. I don't know what "go through it" could mean besides disassemble/reassemble (with gaskets/labor, that'd be about the same cost as a rebuild) or just drop the pan, clean up a bit, and replace the filter. The only thing I can see between them is to flush it (on the bench).

 

[Architect]

Can anyone tell me how these quick-connects are supposed to work? I get squeezing the plastic tabs, but does the plastic slide out, releasing the tube, or does it all come out together? I'll probably have to spin out the receiving unit from the trans.

At the radiator it looks like this:
The line itself:

with right underneath it the white plastic retainer inside the radiator inlet.
With the disconnect tool (the 3/8" one):

When you push the tool into the radiator inlet, it pushes little arms of the retainer out so the rim on the ATF line is freed.
But I didn't understand your problem because in the photo (red arrow) it seems the line is already free from the trans.

 

[Nails.Sch]

Thanks.

Mine don't look like that, smaller, and white plastic stuff is on the trans side of the ridge in the metal pipe. I don't think it's been apart since leaving the factory.

I'll spin off the metal piece in the wall of the trans and try to sort what's going on. Mine, at least the bottom one, is probably screwed up by now anyway. Sure is stuck in there still.

 

[Nails.Sch]

I have a Chilton's and some YouTube vids, but this job was more complicated than they indicated. I'll write about that as I put it back together.

Here's the trans lowered enough to get the TC out. The driver's side suspension chain is in the way of re-installing the trans. I had to support the bottom of the engine with a jack long enough to get the transmission away from the engine, and then install this chain before getting the trans all the way down. There's just no place to hang the engine otherwise.

Here's the back of the trans. I had to remove a bracket that wasn't described in the manual. (Let the bitching begin.) Later, I'll need to deal with a twisted-off exhaust bolt -- despite just a few months ago having tapped these threads and installing a new SS bolt with high-temp anti-seize.

Hard to make out here, but the TC is definitely damaged as expected. Notice the lack of splines in the inner-circle. (Tough to focus right.) I have to assume these metal bits are on the filter, that I'll replace when I put the car back together.

The impeller looks fine. I don't know how to get it out, but I won't mess with it after all.

Now I'm ready to order parts, including a plastic unit (dealer item, bend over) in the coolant lines. But I'll bitch about that when I get to it during reassembly.

I've had a lot of trouble finding time to work on this. On Tuesday I'll be out of town again for about six weeks. See you then.

 

[rjacket]

SECTION 307-01B: Automatic Transaxle/Transmission — 4F50N​	2002 Taurus/Sable Workshop Manual​
GENERAL PROCEDURES​	Procedure revision date: 01/15/2004​

Torque Converter Contamination Inspection


CAUTION

CAUTION: Do not use water-based cleaners or mineral spirits to clean or flush the torque converter or transmission damage will occur. Use only clean automatic transmission fluid designated for the transmission and converter being serviced.




CAUTION

CAUTION: The torque converter drain plug and seal are not reusable. If equipped, discard the drain plug and seal, then install a new drain plug assembly.

1. If a new or remanufactured torque converter is not being installed, the following steps must be completed.

1. With the torque converter on a bench, pour a small amount of transmission fluid from the torque converter onto an absorbent white tissue or through a paper filter and examine the fluid.

1. Observe the color and odor of the fluid. The fluid should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate an overheating condition such as clutch disc or band failure.

1. Examine the stain on the tissue for evidence of particles (spec of any kind). Examine the fluid level indicator for signs of antifreeze (gum or varnish). If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, anew torque converter must be installed.

1. If there are no particles or contamination present, drain the remainder of the transmission fluid from the torque converter.

1. Add 1.9 liter (2 qt.) of clean automatic transmission fluid into the converter and agitate by hand.

1. Thoroughly drain the fluid.

 

[rjacket]

SECTION 307-01B: Automatic Transaxle/Transmission — 4F50N​	2002 Taurus/Sable Workshop Manual​
GENERAL PROCEDURES​	Procedure revision date: 06/20/2001​

Transmission Fluid Cooler — Backflushing and Cleaning

1. Carry out backflushing with a suitable torque converter /fluid cooler cleaner. Test your equipment to make sure that a vigorous fluid flow is present before proceeding. Install a new system filter if flow is weak or contaminated.

1. To aid in attaching the cleaner to the transmission steel cooler tube, connect two additional rubber hoses to the transaxle end of the steel transaxle cooler tube as follows:
   1. Connect the cleaner tank pressure tube to the steel transaxle cooler return tube.
2. 1. Connect a tank return hose to the steel transmission cooler pressure tube. Place the outlet end of this hose in the solvent tank reservoir.

1. Turn on solvent pump and allow the solvent to circulate a minimum of five minutes (cycling switch on and off will help dislodge contaminants in cooler system).

1. Switch off the solvent pump and disconnect the solvent pressure hose from the transaxle cooler return tube.

1. Use compressed air to blow out the cooler(s) and tubes (blow air into the transaxle cooler return tube) until all solvent is removed.

1. Remove the rubber return hose from the remaining steel cooler tube.

 

[Nails.Sch]

If a new or remanufactured torque converter is not being installed

Thanks. But a new TC most certainly is, as mine is stripped.

 

[rjacket]

Thanks. But a new TC most certainly is, as mine is stripped.

Yes. Just for information and also if you want to "inspect" the reman TC.