[Nails.Sch]

I've only worked on this for a couple hours -- I have a detailed list of excuses that nobody wants to hear.

I've drained the fluids. The trans pan just had some black grease-like substance suggesting the fluid was original. Both axles are separated from the hubs, just need to finish pulling them out. I'm struggling to find anchors on the engine for the support-bar chains. With that, I'm ready to drop the subframe.

But one thing has been bothering me: why did the car fail on a flat road? It was doing well on hills just a mile or two earlier. This might be a clue (RF tire).

That's a low-mileage screw. The tire still isn't flat, just low. TPMS seems like a good idea with these cars.

I'll be stuck in LA for the next couple weeks -- my really impressive list of excuses abides.

 

[Nails.Sch]

One of the axle nuts was seized, and some threads are missing now. Which sucks because that axle only has about 10K on it. I guess I could hit it with a die and maybe put a back-up locking nut on it. But I'll probably just get another one -- trying to be good here..

 

[Architect]

On the other hand: that axle nut is not mission critical. It is only there to pull the splines of the drive-axle into the bearing of the wheel hub. As you know, it is not easy to push the axle out of the bearing with a puller. I guess you would not even notice it when the axle nut is not there at all. Let alone that it is so important it needs to be replaced each time you take it off and be torqued with 180-200 ft-lbs (Haynes). I think this is a remnant from the past when the axle nut kept the wheel in place, which is definitely not the case with the front wheels of the Taurus.

 

[Nails.Sch]

Yeah, I was thinking it's just to prevent any squirming on those wheel splines. I'll try running the threads and then see how it torques down. I've been carrying a spare nut (just because I ended up with an extra); and I'm missing one cover so that I can keep an eye on it.

 

[chartmaker]

On the other hand: that axle nut is not mission critical. It is only there to pull the splines of the drive-axle into the bearing of the wheel hub. As you know, it is not easy to push the axle out of the bearing with a puller. I guess you would not even notice it when the axle nut is not there at all. Let alone that it is so important it needs to be replaced each time you take it off and be torqued with 180-200 ft-lbs (Haynes). I think this is a remnant from the past when the axle nut kept the wheel in place, which is definitely not the case with the front wheels of the Taurus.

The nut on the threads preloads the bearings. It is critical and torque is important. If the threads are cleaned and the nut is past the bad threads onto good threads it will be OK.
-chart-

 

[Steve83]

...that axle nut is not mission critical. It is only there to pull the splines of the drive-axle into the bearing of the wheel hub...

RONG. It also preloads & holds the wheel bearings in the hub. Without it, the bearings CAN work their way apart, and out of the hub. If it were only there to keep the CV in, it would have a far LOWER torque spec (~180 lb-ft).

 

[Architect]

Yes. You guys are right.

I didn't have the lock nuts for the last 15 years. Perhaps somebody took the nylon out and re-installed the nuts when new struts were installed in 2007.
No bearing failure thus far though .

 

[Nails.Sch]

I'm home and getting back into this little job. I've figured out most of the stuff under the hood, but I still need to sort the engine support chain between the engine and trans near the bell housing -- the one that apparently bears almost all the weight of everything. Don't really want to mess with the oil pan surface.

Then I'll be ready to jack the front of the car higher and drop the subframe. Except for removing the flyplate and bell housing bolts, everything else under the car is done.

I was planning to buy a cheap trans jack. But it looks like this trans is shoe-horned in, will sit on the jack awkwardly out-of-balance, and likely is pretty damn heavy. Thinking I'll need tilts that actually work under a load, especially to reinstall it after the shop does it's thing. To those of you who've been there, should I rent a stout pup (2000 lb or so) instead? Or am I making too big of a deal about this? (I'm working alone and not as strong or flexible as I used to be.)

[Update: nobody in town rents trans jacks.
After cleaning my floor jack a bit, I might be able to take the saddle off after all (I need a 7/16 hex bit, just ordered). This old beast sure is stout: looks like it takes a 1.75" stem. I can't find a trans adapter other than 1 5/32" or smaller.
Otherwise, I might go for a $400 Harbor Freight jack that has a customer comment that it doesn't work with transaxles.
Ah, the drama.]

 

[Automender12345]

Using washers on the CV may move the nut into good threads but it is risky.

 

[Nails.Sch]

Using washers on the CV may move the nut into good threads but it is risky.

I plan to get a die to clean the threads and then see whether it torques to spec. If so, I'll back it up with another nut with a washer between, torqued almost to specs. If not, I'll replace the CV.

 

[chartmaker]

I plan to get a die to clean the threads and then see whether it torques to spec. If so, I'll back it up with another nut with a washer between, torqued almost to specs. If not, I'll replace the CV.

If the first nut torques, I would use another on top of it and torque to also. That should be super safe.
Lots of threads.
-chart-

 

[Automender12345]

I plan to get a die to clean the threads and then see whether it torques to spec. If so, I'll back it up with another nut with a washer between, torqued almost to specs. If not, I'll replace the CV.

Your going to spent more than a new CV half shaft to buy a die to try to clean up what may be a lack of material to clean up.

 

[Automender12345]

Yes. You guys are right.
View attachment 222268
I didn't have the lock nuts for the last 15 years. Perhaps somebody took the nylon out and re-installed the nuts when new struts were installed in 2007.
No bearing failure thus far though .

Those nuts don't use nylon for locking, they use a squash nut that is deformed out of round to lock the nut.

 

[Nails.Sch]

Yeah, I don't yet know what that die will cost. But I'm pretty sure I'll have enough threads to salvage it.

And yeah, of course I'll use new axle nuts all around.

 

[Architect]

Those nuts don't use nylon for locking, they use a squash nut that is deformed out of round to lock the nut.

You're right. The pictures of the front spindle nuts at Rockauto suggest that these are indeed oval lock nuts (and they have that typical marking on the side where they were pushed in).

However, mine are definitely not because I can easily put them on by hand and with an oval lock nut that is not possible. So I assumed that they originally contained a nylon ring that somebody took out because the Workshop Manual talks of a nylon lock that should be properly positioned for the correct torque readings.

 

[Architect]

But I'm pretty sure I'll have enough threads to salvage it.

Rockauto also sells the washers. Perhaps adding an extra washer is enough.

 

[Nails.Sch]

What is this Workshop Manual, something available for download? My Chilton (or Clymers -- it's in the shop) pretty-much sucks. I muddle along.

Talking of muddling: I have a big hex bit coming tomorrow. I'll attempt to pound the saddle off my floor jack -- 50:50 odds that the bit breaks first. But if accessible, I might end up fabricating a trans saddle for it. Any comments about how heinous this transaxle is on a jack? I haven't removed a transaxle yet, and I'm expecting it to be a lot more difficult than a simple transmission behind the engine (as god intended).

 

[Architect]

The Ford Workshop Manuals (Volume 1, Volume 2 and the Wiring Diagrams) are the authoritative source. They are typically available on eBay for your model and year. There are also CD versions, but I don't have any experience with these.

 

[Steve83]

Using washers on the CV...is risky.

No, there is no risk of any problem, adding steel washers.

 

[Automender12345]

No, there is no risk of any problem, adding steel washers.

The risk is I have no idea of the condition of the shaft at the point where the threads are gone. Could be cracking of the shaft due to over torque condition. The nut went on and didn't pull the threads until it was torqued.