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I'm in the middle of doing brakes on the rear of my car I got everything done cept bleeding the brakes. The valve is completly stripped and I can't seem to get anything to hold onto it. Anyone got any ideas?
 

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are you saying the threads are stripped or the nut part is stripped. If the later is your case, have you tried using a pair of vice grips?
 

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the threads are fine so long as their not seized. it's the nut part that's stripped. The last time I used vice grips for this problem I snapped the valve off and ended up buying a new caliper something I really don't have the time or money for.
 

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This isn't much less subtle than vise-grips, but you may be able to pound on the next smallest size socket and then use a socket wrench. For a bleeder screw it would probably need to be a deep socket. The next smaller socket will likely be an SAE rather than a metric, if you have the standard metric bleeder screw. You can carefully file the sides of the stripped screw flat to help the smaller socket fit on. Obviously, when you get the screw out, replace it with a new one
 

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If all else fails, a reman rear caliper from Autozone is $35 for the "bare" model (no pads).
 

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Be sure to always use a dedicated brake bleeder wrench or a 6 point socket. 12 point sockets often lead to rounding off the flats. Although this comes with lots of practice and nut-turning, there is a trick to removing nuts and bolts. I find that a quick burst of controlled power is often more effective than removing slowly with even pressure. Then again, I also own several sizes of vice grips for when that theory doesn't apply.
 

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ok I got it off last night but didn't feel like going and getting a new one. I find the dremel makes a very handy tool. I grinded off 2 sides of the bleeder valve and used an 8mm wrench to crack it loose. and Connerm is right a quick burst is much better than even pressure. Thanks for the ideas guys. Here's a pic of the new nicer lookin calipers.
 

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Originally posted by Wessy@Apr 27 2004, 09:51 AM
Here's a pic of the new nicer lookin calipers.
Now all you need to do is get rid of the pie tins behind the rotors!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by Ron Porter+Apr 27 2004, 10:45 AM-->QUOTE (Ron Porter @ Apr 27 2004, 10:45 AM)
<!--QuoteBegin-Wessy
@Apr 27 2004, 09:51 AM
Here's a pic of the new nicer lookin calipers.
Now all you need to do is get rid of the pie tins behind the rotors!! [/b]
you ever tired removing those things? The rivits are a pita to get off. and I don't care enough to take them off.
 

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Originally posted by Wessy@Apr 27 2004, 09:53 AM
and btw don't ever snap a caliper pin inside the bracket. this results in the purchase of a $53 bracket!
Sounds like you got all the same problems I had changing the brakes on my sho. But first I had a caliper frame bolt that would not come out and I stripped it with the impact so I had to sawzall it off. (BTW the sawzall is the best automotive tool ever!)

But then I broke both slide pins on one side and the other side were sezied solid but it didn't matter because the bolt was stuck in that frame anyways.

But I couldn't justify that much for new frames so I got ones from the wrecker for less then half.

The when all that mess with the rear was done I went to bleed the front because I replaced the line and the damn bleed screw would not come out no matter what I did. So I ended up with new calipers up front but they are a fraction of the cost of the rears.
 

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Originally posted by Wessy+Apr 27 2004, 05:25 PM-->QUOTE (Wessy @ Apr 27 2004, 05:25 PM)
Originally posted by Ron [email protected] 27 2004, 10:45 AM
<!--QuoteBegin-Wessy
@Apr 27 2004, 09:51 AM
Here's a pic of the new nicer lookin calipers.

Now all you need to do is get rid of the pie tins behind the rotors!!
you ever tired removing those things? The rivits are a pita to get off. and I don't care enough to take them off. [/b]
Yep, I have a whole stack of them in my garage!! (too lazy to get a pic for you).

The rears come off with (I believe) an 8mm wrench, and there's three of them.

For the fronts, get a chisel and a BFH. A couple of whacks on each of the three rivets gets them off.

Been considering taking them to a SHO Convention to do "something" with them. At the Tulsa Convention, Kirk & I were tossing things off the top of the parking garage, trying to hit the dumpster below (not too much alcohol invloved......right!!!). The pie tins would have been perfect for that!!
 

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Originally posted by Patrick Norris@Apr 27 2004, 05:41 PM
So I ended up with new calipers up front but they are a fraction of the cost of the rears.
Not at AutoZone. I just bought a new reman front caliper for $30, and the rear is $35 (bare).
 

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Originally posted by connerm@Apr 27 2004, 08:08 AM
Be sure to always use a dedicated brake bleeder wrench or a 6 point socket. 12 point sockets often lead to rounding off the flats. Although this comes with lots of practice and nut-turning, there is a trick to removing nuts and bolts. I find that a quick burst of controlled power is often more effective than removing slowly with even pressure. Then again, I also own several sizes of vice grips for when that theory doesn't apply.
That's odd, I usually end up stripping bolts and nuts unless I do it slowly. Then again, I haven't tried controlled bursts so maybe that would work for me.
 

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Originally posted by Wessy@Apr 27 2004, 10:33 PM
QUOTE
(BTW the sawzall is the best automotive tool ever!)
I'm gonna have to go with the dremel tool. It does a lot more than cut things.
[/b][/quote]
I got one of them too but the sawzall still ownz!
 
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