you ever tired removing those things? The rivits are a pita to get off. and I don't care enough to take them off.Originally posted by Ron Porter+Apr 27 2004, 10:45 AM-->QUOTE (Ron Porter @ Apr 27 2004, 10:45 AM)<!--QuoteBegin-WessyNow all you need to do is get rid of the pie tins behind the rotors!! [/b]@Apr 27 2004, 09:51 AM
Here's a pic of the new nicer lookin calipers.
Sounds like you got all the same problems I had changing the brakes on my sho. But first I had a caliper frame bolt that would not come out and I stripped it with the impact so I had to sawzall it off. (BTW the sawzall is the best automotive tool ever!)Originally posted by Wessy@Apr 27 2004, 09:53 AM
and btw don't ever snap a caliper pin inside the bracket. this results in the purchase of a $53 bracket!
Yep, I have a whole stack of them in my garage!! (too lazy to get a pic for you).Originally posted by Wessy+Apr 27 2004, 05:25 PM-->QUOTE (Wessy @ Apr 27 2004, 05:25 PM)you ever tired removing those things? The rivits are a pita to get off. and I don't care enough to take them off. [/b]
Not at AutoZone. I just bought a new reman front caliper for $30, and the rear is $35 (bare).Originally posted by Patrick Norris@Apr 27 2004, 05:41 PM
So I ended up with new calipers up front but they are a fraction of the cost of the rears.
That's odd, I usually end up stripping bolts and nuts unless I do it slowly. Then again, I haven't tried controlled bursts so maybe that would work for me.Originally posted by connerm@Apr 27 2004, 08:08 AM
Be sure to always use a dedicated brake bleeder wrench or a 6 point socket. 12 point sockets often lead to rounding off the flats. Although this comes with lots of practice and nut-turning, there is a trick to removing nuts and bolts. I find that a quick burst of controlled power is often more effective than removing slowly with even pressure. Then again, I also own several sizes of vice grips for when that theory doesn't apply.