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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys, thanks first for this website, it is a very good idea for our babies Taurus :)

I am the owner of a Ford Taurus 2006 SE, 3.0L engine, gas only, not flex only 140 080 KM on the odometer right now

I have already replaced the spark plugs 6 months ago and did regular oil change.

Something is still strange with it, at idle the gauge is still fluctuating between 800-900...I would say it moves and makes more sound when the engine is warm.

The temperature never go more than the middle, and the ECT sensor has been recently replaced and also the flex pipe

I have noticed that more with regular gas 87, but before it used to be quite OK...

Just few days ago I have replaced the spark plug wires which were worn by new ones NGK and also just tonight a brand new Motorcraft ignition coil pack, the new version AB

It seems to start better and faster when cranking, but the idle warm seems identical...so I guess something else might annoy

I have also cleaned up the IAC and the throttle body with the specific CRC spray and the MAF with an electronic cleaner only

I am loosing my english on that I never dont know what else to check...I would like your lights on that matter if you already had that experience please ?

About the gas should I stay with 87 or is it due to something dirty in the catalytic converter and I should run with more octane for few months ?

I have already used many bottle to clean the fuel system but seems to be quite the same so far

Thank you very much
 

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I would try running a few tanks of high octane and see if it smooths out if it was my car.
 

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I don't think this will help, but try disconnecting the Neg battery cable for 10 minutes and reconnect. Disconnect, clean and tighten every ground wire that you can find. Search this forum for "Low Idle"
 

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High idle is often a sign of a vacuum leak. Also, you were wise to try cleaning the IAC sensor...however, that doesn't always work and a replacement is needed. If you do replace it, I'd recommend staying with a Motorcraft sensor. These Fords are finnicky when it comes to other aftermarket sensors. I seriously doubt this has anything to do with the octane you're burning. They were designed to run on 87.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you guys for all of your advices, I usually always disconnect the negative battery and work slowly on things for the maintenance, therefore the ECU can forget what it had before...I am starting to think that maybe the ECU/PCM might need a checkup or upgrade...but best to keep focused on things that would make sense

My flex pipe had to be replaced but I didnt replace with the original one , the expensive one with all of the cata on it, just an universal that the car shop did it

Do you think my O2 sensors might need to be replaced or adjusted somehow ?

About the IAC, I have disconnected it when the engine is cold and the car wont run, also I have done the same when the engine is warm and the RPM decreased to 300RPM and I dont reconnect quick it will shut off

I dont remember if that means the IAC valve is failing or if on the contrary this valve works well ?

MERCRunner is right, this car and many other Ford were designed to run with fewer octane, especially now with its new ignition coil pack, it should be alright and made for it, but perhaps due to the other flex pipe more octane might be required to clean the cata ?
 

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Failing 02 sensors will throw codes. If no codes (P0171 / 0174 / 1151, etc) the O2 sensors are fine. If you get O2 codes, they do not mean the sensors are bad. For example. codes 171 / 174 are telling you the air-fuel ratio is lean, most commonly caused by a vacuum leak. O2 stuck lean codes indicate a large vacuum leak 95% of the time and a failed O2 sensor 5% of the time.

Sounds to me like your IAC is working correctly.

Failing (sticking or stuck open) PCV valve can also produce an unstable idle.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Jeff, yes I know that likely the 3 valves : IAC, PCV and also the MAF will handle their part on the air topic, but they all seems to be fine, but I can try and clean the 3 of them and see how things go from there...my ODB scanner doesnt know anything quite much so far

Could it also be the EGR dirty without any code ?
 

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EGR actual flow is measured by the DPFE sensor. If the measured EGR flow doesnt match the flow commanded by the PCM the PCM will set a code for incorrect EGR flow. Much more common for the DPFE to fail than for the EGR valve itself to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Jeff, yes I guessed that either the valve might probably be dirty with carbon but usually with new cars it is always a matter of bad sensors or failing...or worse a state in between working and completely dead ( the shame with electronic, as an IT I can testify that machines aren't that reliable... )

I will check for this DPFE sensor if I can test it , holy the price of the Motorcraft one is very much different that the OEM one...I guess I will give a try with the compatible one first
 

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On my 2006 when you disconnect the IAC valve the engine goes to 500 rpms and sits there stable forever. So you may have a vacuum leak. On the newer Vulcan engines there is a runner control valve that will leak air by the o ring. It is located on the passenger side of the intake manifold by the firewall.
f0937731.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thank you, ohhh yes that one plugged here directly ? Thanks I will have a look and check all wires connected to all valves when I can, thanks for your all of your great advices, this is a great forum website
 

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Discussion Starter #12
should I just check and clean inside that valve and also use the regular CRC intake valve cleaner with a warm engine and while going to 2000RPM ?
 

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May check/replace the runner control valve gasket/o-ring (imrc) in Automender's pic. It's the component right above the elec. wire in the pic. The o-ring is about as big as an oil filter gasket and seals the 2 halves.
 

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No need to clean the valve it doesn't get very dirty. You can wrap electrical tape around the seam to see if it changes your problem. If not don't replace gasket, it runs $13 from dealer if I remember correctly.
 

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The nylon vacuum lines can break easy as the car ages, had a vacuum leak code, traced the nylon lines all the way over to the vacuum connection near the brake booster, I cut the nylon hose and used vacuum tubing to reconnect the clean cut.
 

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Have you replaced the fuel filter recently?
I ran one can of Gumout Multi system tune-up, wow made the engine run even smoother.

gumout.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you everyone for all of your advices, I wish I lived in the USA, looks like you have really more options for buying such as the famous rockauto and others, here in Canada...fortunately we have amazon but we still miss more OEM parts that you might get access to in the USA. Anyway I will check those valves you described, especially also the PCV and all vacuum hoses.

Does anyone would have the vacuum diagram pdf file that covers the Taurus year 2006 by any chance ?

Thank you James for your advice about the nylon line too, I will check that one, I think it is plugged on 2 valves, the IAC and the other one, at least on mine.
 
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