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Discussion Starter #1
A while back my 97 started sputtering after a spark plug wire change. I have since changed the plugs again and was able to change the front 3 wires but ran out of time for the rear 3. It is still sputtering. My cat converter is also shot and I was wondering if that could be causing the problem if there is an O2 sensor not getting the correct info. Or could there be something that I may have hit or knocked lose? Also is the "trench" thing that the rear wires go through necessary? Pain getting that thing back together. Thanks for any help. I am stumped. Jim
 

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A while back my 97 started sputtering after a spark plug wire change. I have since changed the plugs again and was able to change the front 3 wires but ran out of time for the rear 3. It is still sputtering. My cat converter is also shot and I was wondering if that could be causing the problem if there is an O2 sensor not getting the correct info. Or could there be something that I may have hit or knocked lose? Also is the "trench" thing that the rear wires go through necessary? Pain getting that thing back together. Thanks for any help. I am stumped. Jim
[/b]
Well the short answer to all of the above is YES!!!!

Do you have a CEL lit???? if so run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost computer trouble code scan & post ALL of the trouble code numbers found.

If you have a vacuum gauge & follow it's directions for testing for a clogged cat, it might answer a couple of questions.

With the cat running hot, it would suggest a out of control rich fuel mixture & that could be from a lazy, or gone to sleep O2 sensor/s, or maybe excessive fuel pressure from a defective fuel pump pressure regulator, or maybe from dirty, worn, leaking fuel injectors, or maybe even a clogged air filter, or dirty MAF sensor, or some combination thereof, so lots of possibilities & unknowns at this point in time.

So a computer trouble code scan may be able to offer up some good trouble shooting clues.

Yes it's important to use ALL of the factory wire looms & to route the plug wires EXACTALLY as the factory had them, to prevent, heat damage, flash over & induction induced spark in other wires.

If you have 100K miles or more on the O2 sensors, they're likely due for replacement.

If you have a santool, or if the parts store uses a "scantool" that'll read PID's when they do the scan, have them look at the O2 sensors switching speed & voltage range.

Also have them look at the MAF signal & fuel trim for both banks, to see if anything untoward is gong on there.

A bunch of thoughts for consideration.
Let us know what you find the "sputtering" problem to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
<div class='quotemain'>
A while back my 97 started sputtering after a spark plug wire change. I have since changed the plugs again and was able to change the front 3 wires but ran out of time for the rear 3. It is still sputtering. My cat converter is also shot and I was wondering if that could be causing the problem if there is an O2 sensor not getting the correct info. Or could there be something that I may have hit or knocked lose? Also is the "trench" thing that the rear wires go through necessary? Pain getting that thing back together. Thanks for any help. I am stumped. Jim
[/b]
Well the short answer to all of the above is YES!!!!

Do you have a CEL lit???? if so run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost computer trouble code scan & post ALL of the trouble code numbers found.

If you have a vacuum gauge & follow it's directions for testing for a clogged cat, it might answer a couple of questions.

With the cat running hot, it would suggest a out of control rich fuel mixture & that could be from a lazy, or gone to sleep O2 sensor/s, or maybe excessive fuel pressure from a defective fuel pump pressure regulator, or maybe from dirty, worn, leaking fuel injectors, or maybe even a clogged air filter, or dirty MAF sensor, or some combination thereof, so lots of possibilities & unknowns at this point in time.

So a computer trouble code scan may be able to offer up some good trouble shooting clues.

Yes it's important to use ALL of the factory wire looms & to route the plug wires EXACTALLY as the factory had them, to prevent, heat damage, flash over & induction induced spark in other wires.

If you have 100K miles or more on the O2 sensors, they're likely due for replacement.

If you have a santool, or if the parts store uses a "scantool" that'll read PID's when they do the scan, have them look at the O2 sensors switching speed & voltage range.

Also have them look at the MAF signal & fuel trim for both banks, to see if anything untoward is gong on there.

A bunch of thoughts for consideration.
Let us know what you find the "sputtering" problem to be.
[/b][/quote]

Thanks for the reply. A coworker has the scan tool so I will check for codes and no the CEL is not on. The car runs great on the road and in park but sputters when in driving standing still like a stop light. AC makes it worse so it is a load thing. The cat is not clogged the front part is busted through and leaking. I need to get under there and see what type of tranny I have so I can order a new "Y" pipe. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A while back my 97 started sputtering after a spark plug wire change. I have since changed the plugs again and was able to change the front 3 wires but ran out of time for the rear 3. It is still sputtering. My cat converter is also shot and I was wondering if that could be causing the problem if there is an O2 sensor not getting the correct info. Or could there be something that I may have hit or knocked lose? Also is the "trench" thing that the rear wires go through necessary? Pain getting that thing back together. Thanks for any help. I am stumped. Jim
[/b]
Got a code reader and there were zero codes. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
<div class='quotemain'>
A while back my 97 started sputtering after a spark plug wire change. I have since changed the plugs again and was able to change the front 3 wires but ran out of time for the rear 3. It is still sputtering. My cat converter is also shot and I was wondering if that could be causing the problem if there is an O2 sensor not getting the correct info. Or could there be something that I may have hit or knocked lose? Also is the "trench" thing that the rear wires go through necessary? Pain getting that thing back together. Thanks for any help. I am stumped. Jim
[/b]
Got a code reader and there were zero codes. Jim
[/b][/quote]


I have tried a couple things but still sputters. I have noticed that if I am on the highway and try to pass at sometimes it hesitates and bogs but then takes off fine. I ran some injector cleaner through and it seemed to help for a while. Thanks for the help so far. Jim
 

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Well with the engine bogging down when you open the throttle to pass, then it catching up & taking off, suggests the air/fuel mixture is going lean & the computers sensor/s input that tells it that you've suddenly opened the throttle may be corrupt or lazy, or maybe you have a vacuum leak, or even a misbehaving PCV valve or plumbing.

So things like the TPS & MAF sensors need to be looked at & again maybe the O2 sensors switching range & speed & I'd also look at fuel pressure & delivery rate.

The miss at idle may be ignition wire related, seeing as how you say you've not relaced the rear three wires. So maybe after dark with the engine runnng, raise the hood & have a look-see for arcing & sparking from the HV ignition end of things.

At this point it sorta sounds like you may have more than one problem, so try and stay focused on the most troublesome one, until you run it down & put it right.

If you have a hole in the "Y" pipe in front of the cat converter & a damaged cat converter, it'll mess with engine back pressure & maybe mess up the O2 sensors calibration for that cyl bank.

So right now I'd concentrate on getting the rear three plug wires replaced & getting the "Y" pipe & cat converter squared away & see how it goes.

A bunch more thoughts for pondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well with the engine bogging down when you open the throttle to pass, then it catching up & taking off, suggests the air/fuel mixture is going lean & the computers sensor/s input that tells it that you've suddenly opened the throttle may be corrupt or lazy, or maybe you have a vacuum leak, or even a misbehaving PCV valve or plumbing.

So things like the TPS & MAF sensors need to be looked at & again maybe the O2 sensors switching range & speed & I'd also look at fuel pressure & delivery rate.

The miss at idle may be ignition wire related, seeing as how you say you've not relaced the rear three wires. So maybe after dark with the engine runnng, raise the hood & have a look-see for arcing & sparking from the HV ignition end of things.

At this point it sorta sounds like you may have more than one problem, so try and stay focused on the most troublesome one, until you run it down & put it right.

If you have a hole in the "Y" pipe in front of the cat converter & a damaged cat converter, it'll mess with engine back pressure & maybe mess up the O2 sensors calibration for that cyl bank.

So right now I'd concentrate on getting the rear three plug wires replaced & getting the "Y" pipe & cat converter squared away & see how it goes.

A bunch more thoughts for pondering.
[/b]
Thank you very much. I am really troubled by the way it is running. I still need to get under and check the tranny type so I can order a Y pipe. Having no garage and winter storms it is not great car fixin weather. Thanks again and have a Merry Christmas. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It has been a while but I was able to change the other 3 wires. It now seems to be running much better with no sputter. I took my time and routed the wires where the needed to go. The plastic channel was a PITA but I took my time. I also found that when I put the wires on the 1st time I tie wrapped 2 of them together so they wouldn't flop around and hit the exhaust. They were tied parallel and I seem to remember from my muscle car days that wires shouldn't be run parallel but perpendicular. The wire spreaders are OK be cause there is space between them. But whatever it is running pretty good. I am now going to hold off on the Y pipe and hope for an early spring and replace the whole exhaust all at once. Thanks for all the help so far. Jim
 

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It has been a while but I was able to change the other 3 wires. It now seems to be running much better with no sputter. I took my time and routed the wires where the needed to go. The plastic channel was a PITA but I took my time. I also found that when I put the wires on the 1st time I tie wrapped 2 of them together so they wouldn't flop around and hit the exhaust. They were tied parallel and I seem to remember from my muscle car days that wires shouldn't be run parallel but perpendicular. The wire spreaders are OK be cause there is space between them. But whatever it is running pretty good. I am now going to hold off on the Y pipe and hope for an early spring and replace the whole exhaust all at once. Thanks for all the help so far. Jim
[/b]
Good to hear you got positive results with changing the rear 3 plug wires. Yup it's always a good idea to take the time to route the plug wires exactally as the factory had them, using all the factory wire looms, to prevent inductive "cross talk" in the high voltage ignition wires.

On the "Y" pipe, until you can get it properly fixed, you could try a scrap piece of pipe over the hole, sealed around the edges with some muffler patch & held in place with a large diameter stainless steel hose clamp.

This would help with balancing engine back pressure, seal off any oxygen leaks that might be messing with O2 sensor calibration, or cat converter operation on that bank, which could be affcting fuel trim & it'll prevent CO from getting into the cab & making you sick, or worse!!!!

More thoughts for pondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
<div class='quotemain'>
It has been a while but I was able to change the other 3 wires. It now seems to be running much better with no sputter. I took my time and routed the wires where the needed to go. The plastic channel was a PITA but I took my time. I also found that when I put the wires on the 1st time I tie wrapped 2 of them together so they wouldn't flop around and hit the exhaust. They were tied parallel and I seem to remember from my muscle car days that wires shouldn't be run parallel but perpendicular. The wire spreaders are OK be cause there is space between them. But whatever it is running pretty good. I am now going to hold off on the Y pipe and hope for an early spring and replace the whole exhaust all at once. Thanks for all the help so far. Jim
[/b]
Good to hear you got positive results with changing the rear 3 plug wires. Yup it's always a good idea to take the time to route the plug wires exactally as the factory had them, using all the factory wire looms, to prevent inductive "cross talk" in the high voltage ignition wires.

On the "Y" pipe, until you can get it properly fixed, you could try a scrap piece of pipe over the hole, sealed around the edges with some muffler patch & held in place with a large diameter stainless steel hose clamp.

This would help with balancing engine back pressure, seal off any oxygen leaks that might be messing with O2 sensor calibration, or cat converter operation on that bank, which could be affcting fuel trim & it'll prevent CO from getting into the cab & making you sick, or worse!!!!

More thoughts for pondering.
[/b][/quote]

Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately the leak is in the front seam. I bought some patch stuff but the temp here has just plummeted and with no garage ouch. Next nice day I will be out there. Thanks again. Jim
 

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I doubt that the "muffler patch" by itself will hold, so after buttering some on, to cover the crack & while the muffler patch still wet, have a length of metal thats longer & wider than the crack, all pre fitted & formed up, to go on top of the muffler patch, held on by two or three stailess steel hose clamps tightened up snug.
Between the muffler patch, metal overlay & hose clamps, it should seal & hold until you can get it properly repaired.
 
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