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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 97 taurus 24 valve 3.0 v6 duratech engine.
on the thruway i accelerated to pass a vehicle at the toll a few minutes later my car stalled and i realized it was overheated.
afterwards i replaced the radiator due to a failed pressure test i believe i got all the air out of the lines burped them and tilted the car to one side and ran it, i also replaced the thermostat, the fans are working as they should, there has been a low coolant light on in the dash for about three years now i never fixed that because a few mechanics told me it didn't need to be done, i always kept an i on the level of the coolant after that.
The engine still overheats, recap... replaced the radiator, replaced the thermostat, burped all the lines.
about a year ago i replaced the water pump.
what else could be causing the engine to overheat could it be the water pump or is there something im not thinking about, is there a censor or something i dont know about that could cause this??
 

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QUOTE (stevenpaige @ Jun 3 2010, 09:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809124
i have a 97 Taurus 24 valve 3.0 v6 duratech engine.
on the thruway i accelerated to pass a vehicle at the toll a few minutes later my car stalled and i realized it was overheated.
after-wards i replaced the radiator due to a failed pressure test i believe i got all the air out of the lines burped them and tilted the car to one side and ran it, i also replaced the thermostat, the fans are working as they should, there has been a low coolant light on in the dash for about three years now i never fixed that because a few mechanics told me it didn't need to be done, i always kept an i on the level of the coolant after that.
The engine still overheats, recap... replaced the radiator, replaced the thermostat, burped all the lines.
about a year ago i replaced the water pump.
what else could be causing the engine to overheat could it be the water pump or is there something im not thinking about, is there a censor or something i don't know about that could cause this??[/b]
Some versions of the Duratec did have water pump impeller blade issues.
At any rate, the only way to know for sure is to take it off and inspect it

if the pump checks out, i would be looking at other things
maybe a collapsing radiator hose.
Or a pin hole leak somewhere.
likely spots:
heater core bypass hose
degass tank cracked.
degass tank pressure lid


If the system won't hold pressure, it will over heat

bob
 

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Are you leaking? And are you using the right color coolant? I believe your's uses Green.
 

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My Vulcan system isn't pressurized and it doesn't overheat, i have had a cracked tank forever

Its cracked at the top though so it only leaks when it gets hot and the coolant level is too high and after that it stays in the tank without leaking alot
 

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QUOTE (901-Memphis @ Jun 4 2010, 02:03 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809206
My Vulcan system isn't pressurized and it doesn't overheat, i have had a cracked tank forever

Its cracked at the top though so it only leaks when it gets hot and the coolant level is too high and after that it stays in the tank without leaking alot[/b]
Clarify what you mean when the vehicle overheats. That is a diagnosis, not a symptom. You may have a condition that resembles overheating that isn't.

Without a functional thermostat, your bull's coolant will not remain in the radiator long enough to transfer its heat to the outside air. Have you tested the new thermostat to ensure that it is functional? Is the thermostat installed in the correct orientation, I am aware that there are some units that can be inadvertently installed upside down.
 

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QUOTE (901-Memphis @ Jun 4 2010, 02:03 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809206
My Vulcan system isn't pressurized and it doesn't overheat, i have had a cracked tank forever

Its cracked at the top though so it only leaks when it gets hot and the coolant level is too high and after that it stays in the tank without leaking a lot[/b]
Well, you darn lucky then. If the cooling system does NOT hold pressure, the water WILL start boiling at an earlier
temperature. I had that exact thing happen on my 98 Vulcan. It puked out of the degass tank when you ran it around
the city for awhile. Turned out to be a leak in the heater core bypass hose. fixed that and all was well.


http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

http://www.familycar.com/classroom/coolingsystem.htm

if you go to the junk yard and look at degass tanks on GEN3, you will be lucky to find 50% t hat don't have a crack
in them.

I made a ghetto pressure tester when i was trouble shooting the whole issue. Went to harbor freight and got a pressure
gauge. I then got a T fitting and two hose barbs. I then inserted this into the little line on the degass tank to monitor
pressure when it was running. I just left it hooked to the car until i was sure i had the problem solved.

bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE (soundu @ Jun 3 2010, 11:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809158
QUOTE (stevenpaige @ Jun 3 2010, 09:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809124
i have a 97 Taurus 24 valve 3.0 v6 duratech engine.
on the thruway i accelerated to pass a vehicle at the toll a few minutes later my car stalled and i realized it was overheated.
after-wards i replaced the radiator due to a failed pressure test i believe i got all the air out of the lines burped them and tilted the car to one side and ran it, i also replaced the thermostat, the fans are working as they should, there has been a low coolant light on in the dash for about three years now i never fixed that because a few mechanics told me it didn't need to be done, i always kept an i on the level of the coolant after that.
The engine still overheats, recap... replaced the radiator, replaced the thermostat, burped all the lines.
about a year ago i replaced the water pump.
what else could be causing the engine to overheat could it be the water pump or is there something im not thinking about, is there a censor or something i don't know about that could cause this??[/b]
Some versions of the Duratec did have water pump impeller blade issues.
At any rate, the only way to know for sure is to take it off and inspect it

if the pump checks out, i would be looking at other things
maybe a collapsing radiator hose.
Or a pin hole leak somewhere.
likely spots:
heater core bypass hose
degass tank cracked.
degass tank pressure lid


If the system won't hold pressure, it will over heat

bob
[/b][/quote]

the degas tank does start gurgling when its a little higher 3/4 on the heat gauge in the car, although im on my way to the garage now to see if its the water pump, hopefully that will be it cause this is frustrating! thanks for those though i didn't even think to check the hoses for collapsing and the degas tank
 

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Sorry to jumop in here but I am so laughing at this remark as it happened just that way while I was on the rode thru TX last year. I was overheating and had to be towed to a mechanic. He said "Lady, your thermastat it done for and you need a new one!" I said "go for it chief". He replaced it. I went to lunch and came back an hour later and he was done. I drove into Phx AZ 12 hours later and started to overheat BADLY! I took it to a Ford dealership and they took off the housing and inspected the thermastat and showed me that it was installed backwards, that is to say, the springs were not pointed toward the manifold! YIKES! Now I do the basic mechains myself and call my Step-Dad for the heavy duty items!
 

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..hmmm - I don't know much about this stuff - but I just posted an issue with my 2000 Taurus Duratech. That dreaded steel/rubber hose is a high failure part....the steel rusts and water leaks out.. you didn't mention that in your list of things ya did... maybe it's that..
 
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