[Steve83]

I stumbled into this car when the PO abandoned it at a local repair shop because the brake lines rusted out under the driver's door. But it ran perfectly, had barely any body damage, no other leaks, and was very clean inside, so I couldn't pass it up. This makes my 8th vehicle currently, after 3 '93-95 Broncos, 3 '93-97 F-series, and an '03 Ranger (which needs a cab).

So like the trucks, I plan to modernize this inside: touchscreen, BT, AndroidAuto, wireless cradle, backup camera, dash cam, USB power, seat heaters, TPMS... Then I'll drive it until someone makes me sell it. I'm cataloging most of the parts I have bought (or WILL buy) on an Amazon list, even if I'm buying them elsewhere, because Amazon pages are more-stable over the years.

Of course, job 1 was the brake lines. I didn't feel like figuring out which one was leaking, so I just replaced both using a Carlson H8300 coil.

The nuts were fine, so I just transferred them to the new tubes - everything went together easily.

I think I spent more time bleeding than changing the tubes, but the calipers were so rusty that I had to sandblast the brackets so the pads could move. While I had things apart, I blasted the rotors, and the front hubcaps (which I then painted & clearcoated).

An exhaust hanger was broken; the pollen filter looked almost factory; the (DuraCrap) battery was shot; the hood struts were weak; the headlights were foggy;

The cheap tires are OK, as are the belt & air filter. But I'll probably change the oil & coolant soon. I haven't decided about the ATF & PSF. I need to clean the instrument cluster, so I might change most of its bulbs to LED, like I've already done to the (new) headlights & CHMSL. I need to track down a replacement lid for the flip-up console, though.

 

[Steve83]

If the Dent Dr. can't fix the right rear door, I'll replace it.

It had a base rear-view mirror, so I swapped in an aftermarket electronic one with F&R cameras, GPS, DVR, speedo, & compass. It's installed on a backplate mount (instead of rubber bands holding it on the original mirror) but the rear camera is pretty foggy. I might not have peeled the film off its lens yet.

The first touchscreen I bought didn't have all the features it was advertised with, so it's going back to chy-nah.

But the install kit (although poorly assembled) is in, with the original HVAC switches & knobs.

I mounted a camera with adaptive parking lines above the trunk lock cylinder, and ran its wiring with the factory harness, across the rear deck, and along the left thresholds into the dash.

Since I don't smoke, I converted the rear ash tray to a dual USB outlet.

It's connected to new wires under the carpet.

 

[Steve83]

I'm also deleting the front ash tray, which will probably be replaced by a custom panel with USB power, voltmeter, and some custom switches.

The $92 headlight pair & $38 LED pair are surprisingly bright & well-focused.

Low

Hi

.

 

[Steve83]

After replacing the PCV & its hose, the lean codes have not returned.

As violently as the steering wheel shook during braking, I was expecting a LOT more warp in the front rotors than this, but they're flat after just a light pass. Now I have some spares.

Rather than replace the chafed/ruptured washer hose, I just patched it.

The old IMRC bushing was harder to remove than the new one was to install.

Not knowing how many miles were on this thing, I threw a new Ford F6DZ9601B/MC FA1630 air filter into it.

I haven't made much progress on the ABS, though. The lights don't prove-out during cranking so at first I thought the whole system was dead since the brakes lock & slide easily. But one day for no particular reason, the ABS light came on during a drive. On the return trip, it was off and hasn't come back on, but the ABS still doesn't work.

Most of the highway paint came off with a pressure washer, leaving the car undamaged.

I picked up a can of DupliColor for the places that ARE damaged.

 

[Steve83]

Reserved 1

 

[Steve83]

Reserved 2

 

[ice445]

Wow, nice work. You definitely have some skills when it comes to fixing and modernizing older cars. These third gen duratecs are the most reliable of all the Tauri, so it should last you a long damn time. And they scoot too.

I definitely recommend changing out the transmission fluid with some genuine Mercon V and a new filter. These transmissions run hot and they burn up their fluid over time. Power steering is also good to change, if you keep it fresh (also runs on Mercon V), you'll probably never have to touch the rack or pump. The third gens also have an inline power steering filter on the return side of the circuit, when I had mine I swapped it with a magnefine filter since you can't get the OE ones anymore.

Oh, and pick up a transmission output shaft sensor. That's pretty much the only thing that consistently fails on these cars since it uses a plastic gear to measure the output shaft speed (and thus inform the PCM of the vehicle speed so it can calculate the correct gear). It's not too hard to change or anything. If you start having random transmission issues and the speedo is dropping to zero or flying all over, that's almost always what it is.

 

[Steve83]

I guess I forgot to mention that I'm an ex-Ford dealership ASE tech with a home shop. But I'm not a fan of FWD cars, and these weren't breaking down much when I was working, so I don't know much about them specifically. But I am adamant about using MerconV in my trucks' transmissions, so I have plenty. And I use Magnefines in them.

Is the OSS the problem, or just the plastic gear? Is it F5DZ9E731AA aka DY934 ?

I noticed today that the PCV valve to intake hose (6C324) is collapsed, split, & leaking. Does anyone have the full Ford/MC PN or a link to it or an equivalent? It's formed, and must be rated for hot oil (fuel/emissions).

I've also cleaned a fluid leak off the front cat twice, and it's coming back. I assume it's ATF due to the plugged vent that I read about, but I can't put my eyes on that location on my trans. I can barely see the trans ID tag, which is where I think the vent should be, but I'm not seeing it.

And the IMRC rod clip is degrading to the point that the rod slips out easily. Is the white plastic clip available?

 

[sheila]

I guess I forgot to mention that I'm an ex-Ford dealership ASE tech with a home shop. But I'm not a fan of FWD cars, and these weren't breaking down much when I was working, so I don't know much about them specifically. But I am adamant about using MerconV in my trucks' transmissions, so I have plenty. And I use Magnefines in them.

Is the OSS the problem, or just the plastic gear? Is it F5DZ9E731AA aka DY934 ?

I noticed today that the PCV valve to intake hose (6C324) is collapsed, split, & leaking. Does anyone have the full Ford/MC PN or a link to it or an equivalent? It's formed, and must be rated for hot oil (fuel/emissions).
View attachment 221879
View attachment 221878

I've also cleaned a fluid leak off the front cat twice, and it's coming back. I assume it's ATF due to the plugged vent that I read about, but I can't put my eyes on that location on my trans. I can barely see the trans ID tag, which is where I think the vent should be, but I'm not seeing it.

View attachment 221880

And the IMRC rod clip is degrading to the point that the rod slips out easily. Is the white plastic clip available?

View attachment 221881

Steve, the white plastic imrc rod clip/linkage bushing is Ford part # F5RZ-9F955-AB. Dorman (Help! section) is # 47099. Used to be $2.88 for a 5 pack at Advance Auto. Pcv curved/molded hose is MC # KCV110 or Ford part # F8DZ-6A664-AB. Used to be $10-12 at Rockauto.com., Amazon or Ebay Motors. '98/'99 tecs were "bad" years for the vss, fpr and dpfe. The entire vss, not just the white plastic gear. Symptoms included a slipping 1-2 shift when warm and/or a flaky speedo. If left too long, multiple bad shift points and a flashing OD off light. Iirc, on the '98/'99 tecs, the atf vent was under the master cylinder or the air box/hose atop the tranny. Instead of a rubber cap, mine all had a wobbly crimped metal cap.

 

[Steve83]

Thanks for those PNs. I had just found the hose, but I hadn't tracked down the rod clip.

...the atf vent was under the master cylinder or the air box/hose atop the tranny. Instead of a rubber cap, mine all had a wobbly crimped metal cap.

I called myself looking there, but I wasn't sure what I was looking for, so I'll check again. The wobbly cap sounds like what's on all my trucks' E4ODs. But my recollection is that the Taurus trans appeared to end before getting far under the battery tray. And all I remember near the MC was the MLPS (which is gigantic).

EDIT: It's camouflaged!

Although I couldn't find it drilling down through my car's menu on RockAuto, a PN search for DY934 shows it's on clearance for $8.98 right now (+$5sh+tax), so I'm ordering it, even though the car has none of the symptoms mentioned. The other parts look common & available, so I'll wait till I need them. The only odd symptom I've noticed is, after the battery has been disconnected, the first few times I try WOT, the engine revs, sputters, & doesn't upshift until I feather the throttle up to highway speed, and then it's fine. IDK if it'll happen tomorrow since today was the first time I've driven it with the new battery. The only code I've gotten was lean on bank 2, but the tank was nearly empty, so it might have been starving. It's full now, with a can of B12 pour-in & a bottle of Techron.

Is there a source for a new console lid (F6DZ54045G36AA), or do I have to find a decent used one? Is it only found in '96-99s, or in other years?

 

[sheila]

Thanks for those PNs. I had just found the hose, but I hadn't tracked down the rod clip.I called myself looking there, but I wasn't sure what I was looking for, so I'll check again. The wobbly cap sounds like what's on all my trucks' E4ODs. But my recollection is that the Taurus trans appeared to end before getting far under the battery tray. And all I remember near the MC was the MLPS (which is gigantic).

Although I couldn't find it under my car, a PN search for DY934 shows it's on clearance from RockAuto for $8.98 right now (+$5sh+tax), so I'm ordering it, even though the car has none of the symptoms mentioned. The other parts look common & available, so I'll wait till I need them. The only odd symptom I've noticed is, after the battery has been disconnected, the first few times I try WOT, the engine revs, sputters, & doesn't upshift until I feather the throttle up to highway speed, and then it's fine. IDK if it'll happen tomorrow since today was the first time I've driven it with the new battery. The only code I've gotten was lean on bank 2, but the tank was nearly empty, so it might have been starving. It's full now, with a can of B12 pour-in & a bottle of Techron.
View attachment 221882

Is there a source for a new console lid (F6DZ54045G36AA), or do I have to find a decent used one?
View attachment 221894

I always snagged my console lids at the local pick-n-pull jy. It's a shame, because the last gen 3 tec I salvaged I threw several lids in the trunk of every imaginable color with several complete Mach radio systems, lol.

 

[sheila]

Steve, may check your private messages/conversations.

 

[Steve83]

Steve, may check your private messages/conversations.

I replied a few days ago, but haven't heard from you again.

After reading a bunch of TSBs & FSAs, it looks like the lean code may be due to a contaminated MAF, but I haven't started diagnosing that yet. There's an interesting TSB about an RF keyless entry keypad (essentially another remote that's stuck to the car) being available, but it doesn't contain the full PN and I haven't been able to dig that up yet. Does anyone have the keypad or PN? It says the battery is NOT replaceable, so the keypad must be discarded when it dies, suggesting that they'd have to keep making them.

 

[mcsteven]

Is there a source for a new console lid (F6DZ54045G36AA), or do I have to find a decent used one? Is it only found in '96-99s, or in other years?
View attachment 221894

If you're not familar, you might check out a Gen4 center console. IIRC, it has the same bolt pattern and instead of it resting at an angle against the dash, it will open and lay flat against the floor. Or, there are also the column shift center consoles that eliminated the center front seat. They were more common I believe on rental cars.

Just considerations if you wanted to change it up or can't find a console lid.

 

[ice445]

I replied a few days ago, but haven't heard from you again.

After reading a bunch of TSBs & FSAs, it looks like the lean code may be due to a contaminated MAF, but I haven't started diagnosing that yet. There's an interesting TSB about an RF keyless entry keypad (essentially another remote that's stuck to the car) being available, but it doesn't contain the full PN and I haven't been able to dig that up yet. Does anyone have the keypad or PN? It says the battery is NOT replaceable, so the keypad must be discarded when it dies, suggesting that they'd have to keep making them.

Pin is on the smart junction box/gem module under the dash, there should be a paper of sorts that you can find stuck to it somewhere. Or there's a card in the owners manual. On later cars they started embossing it onto the plastic. The factory door keypad doesn't have a battery, it's powered by the car. Would be easier to find and install one of those if you want an oem one. Aftermarket has lots of options for the stick on keypads that work like a remote.

 

[Steve83]

...check out a Gen4 center console. IIRC, it has the same bolt pattern and instead of it resting at an angle against the dash, it will open and lay flat against the floor. Or, there are also the column shift center consoles that eliminated the center front seat. They were more common I believe on rental cars.

Good to know - thanks.

Pin is on the smart junction box/gem module under the dash... The factory door keypad doesn't have a battery...

Not PIN; PN (part number) for the GFA (genuine Ford accessory) wireless keypad described in TSB 06-15-08.

The lean code has spread to both banks, and it's also setting P0443 purge circuit fault. But it runs perfectly - even close to 100mph.

 

[ice445]

Good to know - thanks.Not PIN; PN (part number) for the GFA (genuine Ford accessory) wireless keypad described in TSB 06-15-08.

The lean code has spread to both banks, and it's also setting P0443 purge circuit fault. But it runs perfectly - even close to 100mph.

I gotcha, I was in a hurry and trying to give some different options since I can't answer what the factory wireless part number might have been, or what it even looked like. Never seen it myself in the wild. The door handle integrated one is nice though, and doesn't require any programming or anything, you just have to find that PIN.

 

[Steve83]

The door handle integrated one is nice though...

Does that handle fit where the plain handle goes - same door skin? I'm probably going to buy a replacement used RHR door anyway, so I can look for that LHF handle & wiring while I'm JYing.

 

[ice445]

Does that handle fit where the plain handle goes - same door skin? I'm probably going to buy a replacement used RHR door anyway, so I can look for that LHF handle & wiring while I'm JYing.

Yeah, it's a direct swap, just have to match colors (if you care about that)

 

[Steve83]

I edited my progress into post #4 above. After pressure-washing the trans vent, it doesn't seem to be plugged, and the TSB doesn't actually apply to my car, so I'm not going to change it.