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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was out of the game for a few years after giving up. Had a 98 Vulcan with AX4S that the trans was shuttering like crazy. Then searched out a 00 or 01 wagon specifically with a AX4N in it and it started shuttering too. Both I want to say about the 150k area. It wasn't worth fixing to me so they went to the junkyard.

Fast forward to the other day and I got an 02 sable with 57,000 miles! $1500 so couldn't pass it up! Getting a little crusty under the plastic but nothing in the door jamb yet.

My only fear with these cars are the trans and rust! What do I need to do to make it last? I keep reading to change the fluid and filter ever 30k with Mercon V? Is that it? Are synthetics any better or just keep changing every 30k? I saw a thread about adding a cooler but I'm in Chicago and think it would be too cold in the winter. I use it for service calls so it will get used but I drive like an old lady to get the best MPG.

Just checking if the fluid/filter every 30k is what I did wrong possibly with the last 2?

Thanks
 

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I have had 3 past G-4's, and now have 3 g-4's all DOHC's. Never had a tran issue. I suck the fluid out the dip stick, and replace every other year. All were used when I bought them, all had records.
None had tran replaced. Present, '03 Taurus 154K, '04 Sable wagon 163K, and '05 Taurus 136K.
Pic of '03 Sable bought used and no record of any service, 81K. I changed filter and then exchanged fluid every other year in my Fall service. Sold and went to the JY recently with 199K and rust made it impossible to inspect. Engine and tran were fine. I use Walmart Mercon V.
So I do not see these trans as prone to trouble. My only issue is the vent cap.
My earlier experience: '87, '88, '90 all Vulcans, '92, '95 Essex. No tran issues.
-chart-
 

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Change fluid and filter every 20-30k miles (and right now) and you should be fine. The later AX4S units are pretty decent. Late 98 they changed the failure prone aluminum forward clutch piston to a steel one. They typically run a bit hotter than an AX4N, so an aux cooler isn't a bad idea. But in general keeping the fluid fresh and clean and not driving it like a race car all the time will get you pretty far.
 

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Change fluid and filter every 20-30k miles (and right now) and you should be fine. The later AX4S units are pretty decent. Late 98 they changed the failure prone aluminum forward clutch piston to a steel one. They typically run a bit hotter than an AX4N, so an aux cooler isn't a bad idea. But in general keeping the fluid fresh and clean and not driving it like a race car all the time will get you pretty far.
I never pushed any of my Bulls hard, like a hot rod. Never thought they were designed to be driven that way.
I did push my Lin Cont with Intech's max throttle up a ramp many times just to hear it whine. But they were a different build of tran.
And my Essex Lin Cont. ('91 & '93) could not be driven that way, it was every day max throttle just to get on the interstate at a safe speed.
-chart-
 

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Not changing the fluid on a regular basis is a great way to an early death on any car.
A quality full synthetic ATF will go a long ways to keeping your transmission alive and well. An ATF like AMALIE Universal Full Synthetic can be purchased online for half the price of a certain sellers ATF which has the identical spec's as the original producers ATF. Always clean the pan and change the filter and never do a flush no matter how much you are told that you are only changing half of the fluid. A flush on a transmission with a hundred thousand miles on it is almost a certain path to self destruction of what could have otherwise been a "lifetime?" tranny.
Not changing the fluid on a regular basis is a great way to an early death on any car.
Not changing the fluid on a regular basis is a great way to an early death on any car.
 

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A quality full synthetic ATF will go a long ways to keeping your transmission alive and well. An ATF like AMALIE Universal Full Synthetic can be purchased online for half the price of a certain sellers ATF which has the identical spec's as the original producers ATF. Always clean the pan and change the filter and never do a flush no matter how much you are told that you are only changing half of the fluid. A flush on a transmission with a hundred thousand miles on it is almost a certain path to self destruction of what could have otherwise been a "lifetime?" tranny.
I agree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A quality full synthetic ATF will go a long ways to keeping your transmission alive and well. An ATF like AMALIE Universal Full Synthetic can be purchased online for half the price of a certain sellers ATF which has the identical spec's as the original producers ATF. Always clean the pan and change the filter and never do a flush no matter how much you are told that you are only changing half of the fluid. A flush on a transmission with a hundred thousand miles on it is almost a certain path to self destruction of what could have otherwise been a "lifetime?" tranny.
Are you specifically referring to AMALIE or just making a general statement? My buddy has a barrel of KW full synthetic multi vehicle ATF but from my understanding, the multi vehicle stuff doesn't have the friction modifiers the Mercon V has.
The KW (Kelley Williamson) would be my cheapest, otherwise I'll go to Walmart and get super tech. From the Kelley Williamson website, it looks like it could be a private label of Mobil 1 full synthetic multi vehicle ATF. The website doesn't give any specs though.
 

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Also if you are feeling a shudder at 45 mphs, when you are light on throttle and driving up a incline that is a different issue with the coil pack or spark plugs. I thought my transmission was starting to crap out as it felt like it was slipping. I guess the transmission locks in around 45 mph and any misfire becomes much more noticeable.

2007 Ford Taurus studders/jerks at 45 mph Fixed
 
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