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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 Sable that due to circumstances has been park in my back yard since November 2015. However, my city has order me to ether hide it in my garage, get rid of it, or get it re-register if I don’t want to be fined or jailed! Now the only practical way of doing it is to move it under its own power, but, just before I “stored it” the then 27 month old battery died where it was parked (hence it was unable to be garaged). I was told by the local Auto Zone the problem is that the battery has a short and can’t hold a charge. Now, the simple solution would be to buy a new battery, however, I can’t afford the $120 cost. And I really don’t want to get one since it might be a while (in the process killing the new battery) till I can afford to get the Sable back on the road. So, I am wondering, if any of the 3 below solutions is possible.

1: Just use a regular battery charger and hope that the battery can keep enough of a charge to start the car

2: Can I use something I seen in stores called an “engine starter?” Something along the lines of the “MiniMax” or “Powerall” products I have seen on TV. Or should it be a more “reliable” product?

3: Can I use a non OEM size battery, or does it have to match the cranking amps of a Duratec engine? Which BTW according to the owner’s manual is 800 cranking Amps / 650 CCA.
 

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You can simply use a known good 'loaner' battery from another vehicle. In addition to all the normal things you would expect to do before firing up a vehicle that's been stored for a while it would be a good idea to rotate the engine by hand then pull the fuel pump relay and give it a couple of very quick starter bumps before replacing the relay and firing it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry for the delay, but, I been doing the 7 other things that my City wants done to make my house look pretty.:lol2:

The simple answer to my question is, of course, borrow a battery. However, I don't know anyone with a battery to spare. So, as a first try, I am going to use my friend's "regular" battery charger from Montgomery Wards. If that don't work, I have to next get a hold of either a dedicated engine starter or something along the lines of a MiniMax.

In the meantime I have a question about your statement:
to rotate the engine by hand then pull the fuel pump relay and give it a couple of very quick starter bumps before replacing the relay and firing it up.
I assume that by very quick starter bumps you mean "turn the key" on/off with-out the fuel relay is place.

But, how do I rotate the engine by hand?
 

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I have a 1999 Sable that due to circumstances has been park in my back yard since November 2015. However, my city has order me to ether hide it in my garage, get rid of it, or get it re-register if I don’t want to be fined or jailed! Now the only practical way of doing it is to move it under its own power, but, just before I “stored it” the then 27 month old battery died where it was parked (hence it was unable to be garaged). I was told by the local Auto Zone the problem is that the battery has a short and can’t hold a charge. Now, the simple solution would be to buy a new battery, however, I can’t afford the $120 cost. And I really don’t want to get one since it might be a while (in the process killing the new battery) till I can afford to get the Sable back on the road. So, I am wondering, if any of the 3 below solutions is possible.

1: Just use a regular battery charger and hope that the battery can keep enough of a charge to start the car

2: Can I use something I seen in stores called an “engine starter?” Something along the lines of the “MiniMax” or “Powerall” products I have seen on TV. Or should it be a more “reliable” product?

3: Can I use a non OEM size battery, or does it have to match the cranking amps of a Duratec engine? Which BTW according to the owner’s manual is 800 cranking Amps / 650 CCA.
I bought a '92 Sable from an estate that had been sitting outside for 4 years with no battery. I got a used one from a JY, drove the car ~600 miles and gave it to my daughter. Put a can of gas in it and it started right up.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you can start a car sitting for 4 years then I should have no problem starting one that has been sitting for only 20 months :lol2:

Now, the only problem is that will I be allowed to carry a used battery from the junk yard home on a bus:confused:
 

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If you can start a car sitting for 4 years then I should have no problem starting one that has been sitting for only 20 months :lol2:

Now, the only problem is that will I be allowed to carry a used battery from the junk yard home on a bus:confused:
Put it in a brown bag. :D

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tried using my friend's old (From Montgomery Ward!) battery Charger, but, when I used it a clicking noise came from the engine and the needle of Amp meter swing wildly. I know from doing a google search why this is happening, but, I do have 3 questions.

1: If I just "forget" about the noise, and keep the charger connected, will I do any harm?

2: Will the cigarette lighter work if I do the above? I need it to attach a tire inflator to it since one tires is VERY flat and I suspect the other 3 could use a top up.

3: Is it possible to start the car (I only need it to do it once or twice) with the charger connected?

Of course all my problems would be solved if I had any money, but, With-out employment that is a little hard :sad:
 

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a very long time ago
I was charging a dead car battery with one of those cheap battery chargers
(This thing had little more than a +12v AC transformer & diodes inside)

& accidentally tried starting the car with the charger still hooked up & powered on


Result was lots of smoke when the Alternator kicked in & overpowered the Charger
from +14v dc backfeeding into it


At least the car wasn't hurt.

A starter pulls lots of current to crank an engine

can't get that kind of deep draw current from a typical puny battery charger
 

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a very long time ago
I was charging a dead car battery with one of those cheap battery chargers
(This thing had little more than a +12v AC transformer & diodes inside)

& accidentally tried starting the car with the charger still hooked up & powered on


Result was lots of smoke when the Alternator kicked in & overpowered the Charger
from +14v dc backfeeding into it


At least the car wasn't hurt.

A starter pulls lots of current to crank an engine

can't get that kind of deep draw current from a typical puny battery charger
Basic idea is the jumper battery/charger builds some charge in the dead/weak battery in the car. It needs some time to do that. On a weak battery maybe couple minutes minimum. Dead battery maybe longer. If the dead battery is shorted than nothing is going to work.

On my riding lawn mower, I used one of those lithium jumpers on the mower who's battery would not even click. Immediate it would not quite turn the engine. Give it full minute and it cranked just fine.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Again Thanks For the information

Before my last post I connect the charger directly on the 12 volt setting (its only control is a toggle switch marked 6 volt and 12 volt) to the battery for 5 hours. Nothing happen.

The next day I sandpapered clean the battery's terminals before reconnect the charger for 8 hours. Still no charge, but, this time I noticed that the Amp meter was showing 2 amps.

I have read that with these types of cheep/simple chargers that this means that the charger is sending current to the battery, and at this rate it would take up to 24 hours to charge.

I'll try to keep the battery charger connect for that long and let you know if anything happen. Even If just can get enough power to run the tire inflator!:clap:
 

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If 24 hrs at 2 amps doesn't charge the battery enough to crank it over then the battery is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE:clap2:

After connected the (13 volts/6 amps according to the manufacture plate) charger for 36 hours, plus the amp meter moving from 2 to 1, I find that when I connect my voltmeter to the battery it reads 12 volts.

And, after reconnecting the leads to the car, the Sable's lights, radio, power mirrors/locks and car alarm works.:thumb:

However, when I turn the key in an attempt to start I get nothing. Not even the click of the starter motor :headscratch:

Since I am assuming the problem still being that there is not enought cranking amps to turn the starter I will try to keep the charger connect for another extended period. If that still does not get the car to start, I at lease will be able to inflate the tires.

And maybe try to push it into the garage before the courts find me guilty of non complying with my City's stupid no unregistered cars in driveways law.:angryfire:
 

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UPDATE:clap2:

After connected the (13 volts/6 amps according to the manufacture plate) charger for 36 hours, plus the amp meter moving from 2 to 1, I find that when I connect my voltmeter to the battery it reads 12 volts.

And, after reconnecting the leads to the car, the Sable's lights, radio, power mirrors/locks and car alarm works.:thumb:

However, when I turn the key in an attempt to start I get nothing. Not even the click of the starter motor :headscratch:

Since I am assuming the problem still being that there is not enought cranking amps to turn the starter I will try to keep the charger connect for another extended period. If that still does not get the car to start, I at lease will be able to inflate the tires.

And maybe try to push it into the garage before the courts find me guilty of non complying with my City's stupid no unregistered cars in driveways law.:angryfire:
Need to know: when you turn the key to start, does the interior lights dim or stay the same. Very dim and the battery is bad, or the starter is bad.

Watch the "theft" light. If it blinks when you turn the key to start, you do not have the correct chip key.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #14
when you turn the key to start, does the interior lights dim or stay the same
In reality everything stops working when I turn the key. Even if it just to the "on" position let alone to "start". All the items (horn, lights, radio, cigarette lighter, interior lights, etc.) stop working and everything goes "dark."

At this point I must assume that Auto Zone was correct when I took the battery to them and they said that the battery has a short.

At lease I do have enought power to run the inflator. And, if worse comes to worse, be able to push the car into the garage, makeing the City very happy:biggrin:
 

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Some people say that you can turn the battery upside down and shake it to get the sediment off the bottom and it brings the battery back to life. Watch out for battery acid leaking out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To answer your questions/remarks!

When The Battery "died" in November 2015 it was only 38 1/2 months old. And, as I said before, I took it to Auto Zone where they did say there was a short it in.

So that could be the root of all my problems:pat:

As for turning it "upside down," I know that when the batteries start declining in my TV remote a good slap to it make it work again.

So, one can assume that a variation of that could work.

However, I have noticed a strange aspect of my problem.:headscratch:

As , I also stated before, all the accessories works until I turn the key to start. Then, like flipping a switch, no more power.

BUT! If I wiggle (especially) the positive battery cable, power returns, and all the accessories work.

So, what kind of problem can cut power when trying to start a car, but, can be restored by wiggling a battery cable? :unsure:

Or should I just give up and get some "Manly Men" to help push the Sable into the garage and out of public view?

Oh what I have to do just to make the city happy :bowdown:
 

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Now this may be a really stupid / obvious question

& with a possibly shorted battery may not even be a good idea (speaking from experience)

but can you possibly get somebody you know to somehow
get their car -or- 4x4 ?

close enough to yours to jump start it?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
close enough to yours to jump start it
I did think of that, but, the way the car is parked it is impossible to get another car near enough to run jumper cables.
Plus, as you pointed out, since the battery might be shorted I didn't want to risk my friend's much better cars.

Especially the 2017 Buick Encore (or even the more worthy 1988 Dodge Aries :biggergrin:)

I'll just have to get my friends to push it into the garage before my next court date.

Thanks for all your posters help.:clap2:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Its ALIVE - Almost!

While I may complain about how life stinks, I don't give up. So I kept working on the sable and have made progress.

I now can get the car to start. I get the "normal" staring sound, and the serpentine belt turns so I assume the crankshaft/pistons do also.

However, there is no ignition!

So, what is now the problem?:headscratch:

1: Can it be that there is still not enough amps to crack the engine to starting speed?

2: Or no gas is getting to the injectors/combustion chamber(s)?

I am beginning to think its the latter since it seem to be acting the same as if I was trying to start the car after (which I have done a few times) run out of gas? There is suppose to be 2-4 gallons is the tank, however, it has been sitting in there for almost 2 years. And, maybe it either gone bad, or has evaporate to below the minimum amount of gas necessary to "prime the engine?"

I am going to try putting in a gallon or 2 of gas and see what happens.

If nothing then I have not lost anything (except the $2.40 or so for the gas :cry:)

If it does, then the next thing is to exchange the flat tire for the spare ;)
 
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