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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

I am wondering if the cable that runs from the starter top the + battery terminal is welded. Is it welded on the starter. Reason I ask is because I am going to relocate my battery to the trunk.

Much appreciated,

Tim :)
 

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I don't remember but even if it is welded you can still cut the cable and either use an 8 gauge butt connector or bolt the 8 gauge ring terminal to the 0/1 ring terminal with a washer (assuming your running 0/1 gauge wire or larger). Then you can heat shrink the connectors and cover the connector with heat shrink and wrap the heat shrink in electrical tape. That's what I did when I installed aftermarket battery clamps. BTW Homedepot has aluminum but connectors or that's what they had years ago when I helped a local TCCA member put aftermarket clamps on his bull.

But keep in mind the starter needs a lot of amps to turn and the catch 22 is that [your supposed to] fuse the wire within 6" of the battery to protect the car from catching fire from electrical shorts and what not. I would carefully think this over before the relocation. You may want to put a 300 Amp or higher fuse 6" from the battery in the trunk if you relocate it....but some people do not use a fuse. Decisions, decisions, choose wisely. If your considering an aftermarket stereo, why not have 2 new audio batteries of the same size in parallel? Food for thought.
 

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It is not welded, it just has an eyelet on the end of the wire. It's an easy cut, solder and shrink tube repair. May I ask why you are relocating the battery to the trunk? Where do you plan on running/routing the 0 or 1 gauge wire?
 

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Don't forget to buy a quality 0/1 gauge grommet and Harbor Frieght sells the 3 pack of large bits to cut the 0/1 gauge size hole in your firewall. You may want to spray rustoleum over the hole to prevent the hole from rusting. I wrapped my 0/2 gauge cable in loom and wrapped over the loom in electrical tape. Route your power on the left side and the audio interconnects on the right to avoid interference & noise. Also remember to NOT "snake" a LIVE wire through the car :pat: so you don't blow fuses and stuff. The last thing you are supposed to do is connect the power (battery clamps) after the job is done. :thumb: But it may be wise to leave the battery in its box under the hood. Remember when you relocate your battery your big 3 is neutralized.
 

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You can crimp on new connectors but it takes a special tool to handle the size. I replaced the positive battery connection and it was pretty difficult to crimp without a tool. I ended up soldering the connection by pre tinning the wire and the connector and then put them together and then added additional solder using a propane torch. It takes a lot of heat to prevent a cold solder joint.

Cold solder joint or a improper crimp is going to cause a voltage drop.
 

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You can crimp on new connectors but it takes a special tool to handle the size. I replaced the positive battery connection and it was pretty difficult to crimp without a tool. I ended up soldering the connection by pre tinning the wire and the connector and then put them together and then added additional solder using a propane torch. It takes a lot of heat to prevent a cold solder joint.

Cold solder joint or a improper crimp is going to cause a voltage drop.

+1
I would 2nd "Automenders the soldering the lugs on with a propane torch for the BEST possible connection. Personally I have Stinger dual 0/1 ring terminals, RF 0/1 ring terminals, generic & even Home Depot ring terminals that fit up to 0/3. All of which are the ridiculously overpriced [screw in variety] except for the Home Depot items. I mummify the exposed wire in electrical tape to prevent corrosion.

Here is a picture of the copper Home Depot lugs that can hold up to 0/3 gauge wire. I have modified many of these lugs for high voltage applications. If you buy an internet value package of 0/1 crimp-able lugs and can't afford the special crimp tool. The work around is a heavy duty commercial shop vise where you can use your body weight as leverage to get the job done (assuming you avg. near 200Lbs). I had to do that in 2006 with 16 lugs and I was sore for days.

Look at this video. 140+DB SPL...not bad for 1/2 a stack investment. You can have a stock alt & stock battery as long as you did the big 3 and have the right ported box firing forward, a pair of good subs, a good amp and good HU you can get loud.
Don't blow 3-6k on a sound system until you finish college & land the dream job. :thumb:

Budget SPL: Metering 2 10" Subwoofers w/ DaveTheBoxGuy's Custom Ported Box & Lanzar Opti 1000w Amp - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Already too late for that. Though Im really rethinking the amp I got. Its a power acoustik. The only reason I got it is because it was cheap and it was recommended by my friend because he uses the same one. I have two 12" boss ctx122 subs as well. That was cheap also. Amazon reviews said that theyre good quality and they last. I have still to order 1/0 grommets, more 1/0 wire and 2 kinetik 1800 batteries. I'm thinking of using the spare tire location for the two batteries. Do u think that is a good idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also, I have a 230 (250 peak) alt from Michael singer. I returned the DB electrical alt because of how crappy it was. So far here's my setup (and what I currently have in my car):

Currently in car:
- alpine cde-110
- infinity 8602cfx speakers

Future items to go in car:

- (2) boss cx122 subs
- power acoustik rz1-2300
- 250 peak alternator
- (2) kinetik hc1800 batteries (both to relocate in trunk because I have the money to do so :) )
 

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First, I found a good informative dual battery tutorial. I even learned something. I may need a few more cable runs than I thought :pat:

Dual battery wiring tutorial (and why)

Here's another good all around car audio reference site hosted by an electrical engineer.

http://sparky3489.m.webs.com/site/classic?url=http://sparky3489.webs.com/projects.htm&back=http://sparky3489.m.webs.com/site/webs_72758073/home?url=http://sparky3489.webs.com/projects.htm

Good new and bad. The good is your alt choice is very good. Singer is in my the top 4 :thumb:. The HU & Infinity's are good too.

The ok....Here's your amp manual for your amp choice. Your choice

http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2012/manuals/PA-Razor-Amp-Manual.pdf

Although your amp is an ok entry level amp. But you may want to rethink the amp. It has 60 amp fuse so you really didn't have to upgrade your alt or buy any batteries for this amp. A stock electrical system with a big 3/4 in 0/1 gauge properly done can do the job just fine. To actually need 2 audio batteries you would need a 1 ohm stable type amp that actually pulls 2k watts RMS /166 amps draw or more. An amplifier of this caliber would probably have a 200 amp fuse rating.

If you have reservations about your amp perhaps a Hifonics or Audiopipe capable of 2k @ 1ohm and that shouldn't break the piggy bank.

Bottom line is that your amp choice and subs WILL bang [in the right box]. I stopped messing with boxes in 1995 and don't give advice on them. Your system will bang but the battery plan is overkill for a sub amplifier that is only fused at 60 amps. It's like putting 108 octane gas in your 87 vulcan powered bull. You'll be lucky to pull maybe 40-50 amps tops from your Sub amplifier maybe. Your electrical with the alt upgrade and 0/1 is ready for a 160+ amp RMS draw with the Singer Alt. So you are running practically 100 extra amps surplus of current. With that alt your going to be slamming & flexing.

You can use that battery money to get soundproofing in your trunk, rear deck, spoiler & license plate. I would wait and see how your system performs first, then ONLY if your lights dimm. Only then I would get the batteries. But I bet your lights won't dimm. The alternative is to wait and save and get the next level stuff. Perhaps a sundown 1500D or a RF1500bdcp and some corresponding subs to compliment the amp.

For starter systems I like the Kicker 12" Sub Competition line best because for the money they are "the stuff". *cough*. But your Boss sub firing forward into the cab should get the job done. The Boss sub you picked out received some good reviews.


Yes the a heat gun will work for the heatshrink. HF sells them cheap.

I have my primary D31 battery under the hood & my 2nd D31 battery in a battery box in the trunk hugging the fender well like everybody else. We all need access to our spare tires. This is a picture before I installed the 2nd Blue under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was aiming to do a dual battery set up and have the engine cables connected to one battery and have my audio set up on the other battery. Just for kicks, both kinetiks are gonna be in the trunk. And the reason I'm getting those 2 kinetiks is because if I want to add more electronics to the car, then I'll have enough to power whatever it may be...along with the stuff I'm gonna put in as well. I know upfront its gonna be an overwhelming project but I'll manage. As for the amp, I know its probably not so good quality but I think I'll keep the setup I planned with.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Its funny because the first link u put up, I just found that same link last night. So I'm way ahead of u. And as for the box, the Boss manual for the subs....it recommends an enclosed box.I already got one. I was too lazy to make one. And I'm gonna do like the big 4 or 5 or whatever it may be. I rather be safe than sorry.
 
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