Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My son's 94 3.8 has stopped running 3 of the last 4 years above 90 degree's. Just 3 or 4 times each year. Ok last year. Failed twice this year in Michigan. First time was 65 mph at expressway. Had no spark and there was pressure at valve in fuel rail. Now it fails in slow traffic. Will run after 30 min.
Because of lower temp thermostat, new rad, hoses it runs cooler than most. Runs perfect otherwise. This has ocurred over 60k miles.
I have replaced one at a time the ign module (this is what it acts like) ign coil, pickup in dist. and Integrated Relay Control Module (this contain fuel pump relay, fan relay and the ECC power relay) and is mounted above rad on this car. But this IRCM was from A junk yard (think I will get a new one). Can't make it fail on demand. Hard to work on a hot engine in the middle of traffic. Still think it's spark but will do a fuel pressure test and change fuel filter. I got to thinking that the IRCM was it because pouring cold water on it (twice) would make it start right up and run fine. That's the only times it would run before 30 min. thanks.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
437 Posts
:) Hi, I had the same symptoms many years ago with my 1990 Gen 1 Taurus. It baffled me----car died in hot weather, especially idling at red lights. After lots of mystical brainstorming & checks it turned out to be a weak ignition wire between coil & distributor----the short one $3.00. Try a new piece there----might do the trick-----Had same problem with a Honda---same wire. Good luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,277 Posts
I'm not sure...but I think the 1994 might have been subject to the TFI issue?

I'd say replace the TFI module...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Replaced TFI (ign module) first. On the 3.8 the TFI module is mounted in the air intake by windshield (doesn't get hot) and is not part of the recall. I'll check and replace the coil wire, that's a good one. I ordered a new IRCM (integrated relay from RockAuto (good price and made by AC DELCO). That I learned from another post. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,159 Posts
so does it still stall?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The part from Rock Auto is in transit. It only fails above 90* and we had 3 last year here in Mich. 10 so far this year. 3 failures so far this year. But it has failed in the middle of a busy intersection with honking horns and my grandkids. Last time it failed in front of a 7/11 my son when in and bought a coke and poured on the fan control and it started right up and ran fine. I don't know if it was diet. Will change intergrated control, fuel filter and check coil wire this weekend...then even if it doesn't fail rest of summer we won't be sure it's fixed. My next door neighbor has a 94 Sable, same car and his fails the same way and the same parts have been changed and is just as intermittant. Both cars run perfect otherwise. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Could be, But it's been failing for 4 years than, seems like it would finally go bad. But it does sound like the tank seam welds teck tip from Ford. I had a couple of TFI modules go bad and they acted same at time of failure. If changing IRCM(Integrated Relay Control Module) which contains Computer power relay and fuel pump relay doesn't fix it fuel pump and strainer may be next... Once when it wouldn't start fuel was still under pressure at valve in fuel rail and no spark could be seen. I'm going to put on a fuel pressure guage and try to get it hot to see if pressure drops. thanks... if it never got above 85* it would never fail...When I repaired business machines I would order a big box of parts and replace em'all, that fixed most of them if not I ordered another big box of parts...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
It gets over 90 here most of the summer and spring, sometimes in the fall as well, so I see it all the time, trick to catching it is with a fuel pressure gauge when it fails, and you will be surprised how fast it drops off.

Yur gonna hafta hook it up and run the line thru the hood to the windshield where you can watch it actually happen, or else you won't see it happen.

Had a couple of them suckers fool me for months till I did that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
EXACT same problem on my 1996 Vulcan. Stalls in hot weather general while idling or at LOW driving speeds. Doesnt sputter to a halt...just bascially stalls. Idle may drop real low and loopy just a few seconds before. Only on the hottest days. Has done this for 3 years now. Other than that. Runs PERFECT. No leaks/squeaks/creaks.

ANy ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Robert L. from Robert G. I value your opinion. There is no substitue for having it happen to you. I will change CCRM first. Got it coming. The reason I'm looking at it is the only times it would restart before 30 min was after pouring ice water on CCRM only. Then it would start right up and run perfect for miles. Otherwise it would just turn over and not fire. I had already cked price at Rock auto for fuel pump and it was $115. It will be next. After I change CCRM and it fails I will post so others will know, thanks....don't go away Hey while your here how do you get the C clip off the front axle's on Ford truck (4X4) 1989. You remove the Ford auto hub's and there's a c-clip that has to be removed. It goes 2/3 way around shaft. I worked at it with a small screwdriver and no luck (just wanted to grease wheel bearings. Ford manuel says remove clip ya right. I have heavy c-clip remover but the ends of the c-clip are not close.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Assuming that you are correct when you say fuel pump. Seeing as how it has been ongoing ONLY in the summer months the last few years is this a design flaw or in fact a faulty pump. I find it hard to beleive that a BAD pump would systematically stall at random on hot days then work fine the other 10 months of the year?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
How much gas was in the tank at the time of failure. But i do agree with your diagnosis of the CCRM being at fault. My Car will crank but will not produce a spark with teh CCRM failed. Mine turned out to be a bad ground that would drop off during high temp operation. I got my CCRM with a lifetime warrenty through my job at Advance auto for 45 dollars. My wagon has been fine, but my fuel pump has been getting progressively louder... Fuel pump is 60 something for a Master pump.
Patrick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Has failed with almost full tank. But I agree it would be good to keep it full. I cleaned that ground right above top rad hose but then I removed it while engine running and it keep on running. The ground coming from wiring harness to car frame thru 2 wire connector. I don't understand why put a connector in the ground wire, to remove you can just remove the sheet metal screw. I got the CCRM today and will put in sat. but may be a long time before I know if it's fixed.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Needle nose pliers are what I use to remove the clip on the 4x4 hub, and as fas as CCRM's going bad, I've only seen 1-2 of them go bad in the 12 years I worked at the Ford dealer, what is most likely happening is the fuel pump is drawing too much current when it gets hot causing the f/p relay to over heat as well, and that is inside the ccrm. I can't count high enough or remember how many fuel pumps I've had to replace over the years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I don't have 94 Taurus at home anymore. I gave it to my son as 2nd car, so I see it sat. Robert L. I'm straining my brain to figure out needle nose pliers on that C-clip. The end's are about 1" apart. Clip covers about 200* out of 360*
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Originally posted by raisin@Jun 29 2005, 06:02 PM
I don't have 94 Taurus at home anymore. I gave it to my son as 2nd car, so I see it sat. Robert L. I'm straining my brain to figure out needle nose pliers on that C-clip. The end's are about 1"  apart. Clip covers about 200* out of 360*
I didn't say it was easy, lol but that's how I've been doing it for a long time. I'm sure Ford has some special tool to remove it but n/n pliers can be used for it and many other applications, so I chose the cheaper tool.
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top