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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I didn't want to start a new thread, but I am not able to find the info I am looking for. Here is the problem. It is a 2002 Taurus SES 3.0 FFV. After replacing the Camshaft Synchronizer, I noticed it still had a sqeak/squeal. A squeak at idle and an increasing squeal under acceleration and drive. It comes from the passenger side. I took the serpentine belt off, started the engine and there is no noise. Put the belt back on and it does it again. I replaced the serpentine belt. Still did it. I replaced the idler pulley, the belt tensioner pulley and it's still there. If any fluid gets on the belt it stops. I figured that maybe I had a bought a bad belt. I took it back, they gave me another one. There was no noise for about a week, then it started again. Sometimes, the squeal is so loud that you can hear it over the radio. I do not know what else to do. I had to find a diagram online for the belt because it is not anywhere on the car, nor is it in the manual. Going clockwise from the bottom. Crankshaft-Tensioner-Water Pump-Alternator-Idler Pulley-Power Steering-A/C-Crankshaft. Again, like I said, I know that it has to be belt related because if any fluids (I know this because I got a drop of oil on the belt from the dipstick) get on the belt, it stops for a few minutes then starts again. :angry:
 

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A little WD40 should make the noise go away.
 

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When you had the belt off, did you check (rotate) ea. individual pulley by hand for roughness, play, looseness, noise, etc.? With belt on, being very careful with loose clothing, hair, jewelry, etc., start engine, and with a mechanics stethoscope (available cheap at harbor freight tools) listen to ea. belt-driven component you havent replaced yet (ps, ac, water pump, and alt.) safely behind ea. individual pulley. You could also try a pc. of hose or long screwdriver or pipe held to an ear, but not as reliable. Also, with belt on, eyeball all pulleys for proper alignment.
 

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I'm not sure if this is any help to you but i checked your description of your belt routing with a chiltons manual and you got it right.
 

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Cake monster
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To make sure you've put your belt on right, go here. This is the easiest way to install it incorrectly, because it will work and it almost looks like it's the way it should be, but it will squeak.

Other than that, does it sound like bearing noise or slipping? If you didn't replace the complete tensioner it might be wore and not putting the correct tension on the belt, thus causing it to slip. The alternators tend to be bad for bearings too. If it isn't your tensioner, alternator or an incorrectly aligned belt, it might be the water pump bearings. I doubt it's the P/S Pump.
 

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When you had the belt off, did you check (rotate) ea. individual pulley by hand for roughness, play, looseness, noise, etc.? With belt on, being very careful with loose clothing, hair, jewelry, etc., start engine, and with a mechanics stethoscope (available cheap at harbor freight tools) listen to ea. belt-driven component you havent replaced yet (ps, ac, water pump, and alt.) safely behind ea. individual pulley. You could also try a pc. of hose or long screwdriver or pipe held to an ear, but not as reliable. Also, with belt on, eyeball all pulleys for proper alignment.
Sorry to highjack your thread but Im also having the belt squeaking problem...just replaced my belt for a new Motomaster one so its not the belt...my mechanic also replaced the ps pump cause it was faulty. He put in a used one. My question is this. Is it normal that the ps pulley has a quarter inch play in and out (I checked all the pulleys before installing the new belt) My mechanic told me that the ps pulley is the only one that should have some play (is this true). I have a 2000 taurus se with the 6cyl duratec engine.

cheers!
Dave
 

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Cake monster
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Sorry to highjack your thread but Im also having the belt squeaking problem...just replaced my belt for a new Motomaster one so its not the belt...my mechanic also replaced the ps pump cause it was faulty. He put in a used one. My question is this. Is it normal that the ps pulley has a quarter inch play in and out (I checked all the pulleys before installing the new belt) My mechanic told me that the ps pulley is the only one that should have some play (is this true). I have a 2000 taurus se with the 6cyl duratec engine.

cheers!
Dave
Not sure about the DOHC P/S Pump. But the CII's that go on the Vulcan have shaft movement, in and out. Though, I don't think they should have that much play, all the ones I've tried had less than 1/4 of an inch play.
 

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To the O/P and arak... Check the sring force on the tensioner as well. If it's weak, the belt will slip and cause a squeal.
 

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To the O/P and arak... Check the sring force on the tensioner as well. If it's weak, the belt will slip and cause a squeal.
thanks for your reply! The squeaking is comming (to the best of my knowledge aka hearing senses) from the ps pump that is why I was asking if play in the pulley was normal or would it be more an issue of air in the system...

thanks all!
dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No I didn't replace the entire belt tension assembly. There was a lot of pressure on it but I did notice it has a lot of movement back and forth as the car is running kind of like it is bouncing back and forth. When you move the throttle with your hand, you can really see it move. My dad listened with a hose before and it kinda sounded like it was coming from the water pump, but when the oil got onto the belt, it automatically stopped. That's why I thought for sure it was with the belt.
 

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Cake monster
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No I didn't replace the entire belt tension assembly. There was a lot of pressure on it but I did notice it has a lot of movement back and forth as the car is running kind of like it is bouncing back and forth. When you move the throttle with your hand, you can really see it move. My dad listened with a hose before and it kinda sounded like it was coming from the water pump, but when the oil got onto the belt, it automatically stopped. That's why I thought for sure it was with the belt.
I don't think it stops the belt from slipping, but rather reduces the squeal as it happens. To me, this is a very tell tale sign of tension issues, if it was bearing noise then it wouldn't be going away by applying oil to the belt. Does the noise increase with load suddenly? Like turning the A/C system on and having the clutch kick on and off. What happens when you go to full lock with the wheel while moving slowly, like parking?

Personally, if you think you need to change the tensioner pulley, you're just better off buying the whole damn thing and not have to worry about it. If you've replaced the idler and tensioner pulley, then maybe the A/C pulley is making noise, it's entirely possible that the water pump bearings are going out. Then there's the alternator. Realistically, you've replaced everything cheap, now you have to replace something more costly. It might end up being a water pump, a/c compressor issues, a bad alternator bearing, or the tensioner. My bet is on the tensioner, and if it's the problem it's better than having to rebuild or buy an new alternator or water pump to correct the issue.

When I did my serpentine system up last year, I put new idler, water pump, steering pump and tensioner assembly on it along with a new belt. There hasn't been a single squeal related noise or anything since from that area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No, the only time the noise increases is with rpm. If you kick the a/c on, it doesn't change the noise. Neither does turning the steering wheel all the way. Say if you are going down the road and kick it in passing gear, the noise is unbearable. Accelerating is quite embarrassing. I like keeping all my vehicles in good running order.
 

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Cake monster
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There was a lot of pressure on it but I did notice it has a lot of movement back and forth as the car is running kind of like it is bouncing back and forth. When you move the throttle with your hand, you can really see it move.
Mine gives very little movement. I recorded a video for you, so you can see what a fairly new tensioner acts like. Notice that mine doesn't really have any movement. Even when going up to the rev limiter, there's little movement. Ignore the noises, the steering pump is so loud that it's making the camera microphone distort. My Taurus is a 99, but the tensioner setup is still similar.



Say if you are going down the road and kick it in passing gear, the noise is unbearable. Accelerating is quite embarrassing. I like keeping all my vehicles in good running order.
If the noise is unbearable and it's coming from a bearing, it would probably be very apparent once you spin the pulley's by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well like I said, mine does move all the time when it's running. Like it bounces forward and back about 1/8" and when I throttle it up, it moves about 1/4". You can spin all the pulleys by hand and there is no sound at all. Only when the belt is on.
 

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Cake monster
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Well like I said, mine does move all the time when it's running. Like it bounces forward and back about 1/8" and when I throttle it up, it moves about 1/4". You can spin all the pulleys by hand and there is no sound at all. Only when the belt is on.
I think the tensioners run around $30 to $60 depending on where you buy it. Might want to note the bolt that holds it to the engine, mine was a torx head and I had to buy a decent set of torx sockets to break it loose.
 

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There should be marks on the tensioner fixed point (lines) and moving part (arrow). One indicates maw tension and the other min tension. Don't recall which is which, but min tension line is the one the arrow is closest to when the belt is off. If the arrow is close to that line with the belt on, the belt is stretched and should be replaced. That should stop the squealing/slipping.

If the arrow is near middle or max tension, then the spring is weak and tensioner assembly should be replaced.
 

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I have exact same problem with a squeal

My 2002 base model Taurus squeaks at idle but the squeal is steady (but not too loud) at highway speads.

If I put the tiniest drop of water on the grooved side the problem is gone until the water evaporates. The fact the squeal comes and goes with even a drop or two of carefully placed water tells me it is not the bearings anywhere in the system. Each time I make an attempt at repairing the squeal goes away for about 45 minutes if driving. Here is what I have replaced in desperation to stop the noise.

Replaced the belt with new.
Reversed that belt
Borrowed a belt from another Taurus that NEVER squeaked.
Reversed that belt too.
Replaced Tensioner pulley (bearing wiggled)
Replaced Idler pulley (bearing wiggled)
Replaced water pump with 120,000 miles on it. (bearing wiggled, no leak)
Cleaned the pulley grooves on EVERY pulley thoroughly with a steel wire brush.
Cleaned the belt grooves with a soft brass wire brush.
Air conditioner on or off no change in tone.

I refuse to use belt conditioner or WD40 because the factory did not use it un a new vehicle. The car did not squeak for first 100K+ miles.

It seems the tensioner is the only logical thing to replace now. Any other suggestions?

John
 
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