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Discussion Starter #1
I recently had all my brakes replaced (4-wheel disc) at Midas. I had them install Performance Friction pads and they also replaced my rear rotors since they needed to be turned and they weren't thick enough to turn. This was all about 2 months ago...


Now my brakes squeak really bad, especially when I apply them at low speeds. What the heck is causing this? The pads all seem to be fine, the braking power is fine, but the noise is extremely annoying. Heck, now you can really hear my car coming down the street...

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've already taken it back and they told me that it would cost $39 for a brake inspection. I argued and argued, and they still will not tell me what happened.

I normally would do them myself, but being a full-time student and working 2 jobs doesn't always give me too much free time.
 

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Originally posted by UnDeR EsTiMaTeD@Dec 15 2003, 09:00 PM
I've already taken it back and they told me that it would cost $39 for a brake inspection. I argued and argued, and they still will not tell me what happened.

I normally would do them myself, but being a full-time student and working 2 jobs doesn't always give me too much free time.
Thats BULLSHIZZLE. You MARCH back there and DEMAND a free inspection and correction if neccesary for THEIR SHABBY WORK. Dont leave untill they do what theyre suppose to do.
 

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hey,time to hear from the shop foreman.take the car back to them and tell them to have the car checked out for FREE and to have a qualified brake tech check out what is wrong i bet it is an installation problem or lack of lubrication.if they give you anymore crap phone the head office(its on the invoice envelope)and then they will have no other choice but to make you happy.i hate this s*** when you dont get the service you deserve.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the replies. I might try again. But the important thing is, what is causing this? Lack of lubrication? I want to know how to fix it before another jackass touches my car. It's bad enough they scratched my wheels the first time.
 

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Originally posted by UnDeR EsTiMaTeD@Dec 15 2003, 10:25 PM
Thanks for all the replies. I might try again. But the important thing is, what is causing this? Lack of lubrication? I want to know how to fix it before another jackass touches my car. It's bad enough they scratched my wheels the first time.
They may have left off the anti-squeel shims. If you don't get satifaction contact Midas corporate with your problems. They can deal with the franchise owners.

Bob
 

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Every time I do my own brakes I always use the squeel stop adhesive. This is to prevent the pad from vibrating against the caliper. Some pads come with shims aswell. I really beleave they forgot this or just didn't care.


Off the topic of brakes..
I once had to have a wheel bearing replaced in my 96' Grand Am. I went to Pep Boys and when I got the car back it didn't feel right. A few days later I took it to a different Pep Boys(figured they were smarter at another store) and they said that I had to take it back to the store I originally had it serviced at. Anyways, I limp it down to the other store and they put in a new bearing. Three hours later I drove out of Pep Boys and went not even a mile and I went up a driveway to Wendy's and the half shaft snapped. All I heared was the axle flopping around and the car wouldn't move. I got out and looked at it (car in gear, parking brake on) and it was spinning around like mad all over the place. I have it towed back to Pep Boys which is now closed (10pm). The next day I went in and they wanted to charge me for a new half shaft and labor. Something like $300, so I asked for the general manager. Luckely the District Manager was in on some training seminar and the GM had no choice to appoligize and fix it all for FREE. If you guys are ever not happy with service no matter where you are, ask for the GM or manager in charge. If no luck ask for the phone number for the corporate office. It works trust me.

=most unused smilie
 

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my last brake job (the rear disk conversion) one side was squeeling, so i used the brake grease....worked wonders. try that, but all the same, i would still take it back and complain!

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by the_spy_guy@Dec 15 2003, 08:50 PM
my last brake job (the rear disk conversion) one side was squeeling, so i used the brake grease....worked wonders. try that, but all the same, i would still take it back and complain!

Brad
How would I go about applying that grease? Would I need to remove the caliper?
 

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When my breaks squeeled it was because they got glazed over for riding the breaks and not being firm enough...just had to be harder ont hem for a while and the squeel wore off... dont know if thats your problem though...i had to take it inf or them to see what was wrong...
 

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You didn't bed the pads did you? You MUST do this with disc brakes. Also, do not hold the brake down in stop and go traffic. Touching that hot pad to the hot rotor is going to cause warping. May as well prevent it as much as possible. Inch forward by letting off the brake and putting it back on. You see some people do it, and that's because it helps extend the life of the brakes. Trust me, I got 95,000 miles out of the stock Explorer brakes. I know some about keeping brakes in good condition.


Heck, the brakes weren't even that bad. I just had a slightly warped rotor, and I wanted to replace the pads with the new rotor. Always get 4 new pads and bed them with the rotors right away.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by Majisto@Dec 16 2003, 11:08 AM
You didn't bed the pads did you? You MUST do this with disc brakes. Also, do not hold the brake down in stop and go traffic. Touching that hot pad to the hot rotor is going to cause warping. May as well prevent it as much as possible. Inch forward by letting off the brake and putting it back on. You see some people do it, and that's because it helps extend the life of the brakes. Trust me, I got 95,000 miles out of the stock Explorer brakes. I know some about keeping brakes in good condition.


Heck, the brakes weren't even that bad. I just had a slightly warped rotor, and I wanted to replace the pads with the new rotor. Always get 4 new pads and bed them with the rotors right away.
I didn't bed the pads because I didn't service my brakes. What exactly is "bedding"?
 

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Originally posted by UnDeR EsTiMaTeD+Dec 16 2003, 12:19 AM-->QUOTE (UnDeR EsTiMaTeD @ Dec 16 2003, 12:19 AM)
<!--QuoteBegin-the_spy_guy
@Dec 15 2003, 08:50 PM
my last brake job (the rear disk conversion) one side was squeeling, so i used the brake grease....worked wonders. try that, but all the same, i would still take it back and complain!

Brad
How would I go about applying that grease? Would I need to remove the caliper? [/b]
If they see that you've touched the brakes in any way they're not going to do a damn thing for you. They lose all responsibility once you get your hands dirty, because after that it becomes the blame game.
 
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is it squeaking from the front or back. Someone told me that replacing pads and not resurfacing or replacing rotors will cause squeaking while braking.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by XLSuruaT@Dec 16 2003, 03:18 PM
is it squeaking from the front or back. Someone told me that replacing pads and not resurfacing or replacing rotors will cause squeaking while braking.
It seems like the back brakes are really the ones squeaking. Those are brand new rotors and the front rotors were turned.

I haven't touched my brakes yet, and I plan on writing to Midas' corporate office to explain my situation.
 

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Well, bedding can be done a lot of ways. The idea is to run up to speed and brake very harshly to heat up the brakes so smoke will begin to come out. The idea is that the pad will then "fuse" with the rotor. When the pad comes to grip the rotor, it will quickly grab the rotor and hold firm instead of slipping and causing harsh braking.
 

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Originally posted by Majisto@Dec 18 2003, 04:58 PM
Well, bedding can be done a lot of ways.  The idea is to run up to speed and brake very harshly to heat up the brakes so smoke will begin to come out.  The idea is that the pad will then "fuse" with the rotor.  When the pad comes to grip the rotor, it will quickly grab the rotor and hold firm instead of slipping and causing harsh braking.
This is a joke, right?
 

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Originally posted by toolbox+Dec 19 2003, 07:28 PM-->QUOTE (toolbox @ Dec 19 2003, 07:28 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-Majisto
@Dec 18 2003, 04:58 PM
Well, bedding can be done a lot of ways.  The idea is to run up to speed and brake very harshly to heat up the brakes so smoke will begin to come out.  The idea is that the pad will then "fuse" with the rotor.  When the pad comes to grip the rotor, it will quickly grab the rotor and hold firm instead of slipping and causing harsh braking.
This is a joke, right? [/b]
I believe there are better ways to do it; his method seems to apply to more race-centered brakes. Normal car brakes wouldn't respond well to this at all, I bet.

From Here:

QUOTE
Bedding in is most critical in racing applications, but it's much more critical in high-performance applications than for "normal" passenger cars. Bedding in is generally also a highly accelerated procedure. A normal passenger car system's break-in might call for 150-200-miles of mixed stop-and-go and highway driving, with hard stops or severe mountain-type driving, while a racing or ultra performance system may call for a series of progressively harder stops from fairly high speeds (60 or 70-100 mph) to bring the brake components up to their intended operating temperature range in one heat cycle, before being allowed to cool completely[/b]
 

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Originally posted by toolbox+Dec 19 2003, 07:28 PM-->QUOTE (toolbox @ Dec 19 2003, 07:28 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-Majisto
@Dec 18 2003, 04:58 PM
Well, bedding can be done a lot of ways.  The idea is to run up to speed and brake very harshly to heat up the brakes so smoke will begin to come out.  The idea is that the pad will then "fuse" with the rotor.  When the pad comes to grip the rotor, it will quickly grab the rotor and hold firm instead of slipping and causing harsh braking.
This is a joke, right? [/b]
I don't tell jokes, son; just silly jibs and bad puns every once in a while.


My method is generally used for slotted rotors so that when you heat the brakes up, the burning rotor can exhaust itself, but the idea remains the same. Rotors will get scored and "thump" if you do not bed the pad and rotor. Trust me, I know about scoring a rotor.

As well, when coming to a stop, try to slowly inch up on the brakes before you stop, and NEVER sit in and stop and go traffic with the brake pedal down the entire time. Always make sure to release and re-apply the pedal so that hot rotor won't hurt the pad. I got 91,000 miles out of my Explorer brakes and warped one rotor; I either know a little about taking care of my brakes, or I got very lucky. (Btw, those were Ford rotors
)
 
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