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Hi all, I'm brand new here with a just purchased silver 93 3l vulcan wagon, 126k. I want to learn mechanics due to necessity and pride of fixing something yourself, but wanna do it right. It came with a free radiator leak. looks like a couple inches down from top of inlet tank, maby hinting from bad gasket under crimped tabs? Should I pull radiator and order just gasket? or dont mess around and just get a new radiator? When removing oil lines and (ac lines too?), wont these other liquids spew out.what should I expect and prepare for? I really appreciate this site, thanks all.
 

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You can't order a readiator "gasket". You can try crimping down the tanks more, but you're most likely going to need a new radiator. Yes, transmission fluid will come out when you disconnect the tranny lines from the radiator. just disconnect them first and collect the tranny fluid, then drain the radiator and collect the coolant in a different container.
 

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You can't order a readiator "gasket". You can try crimping down the tanks more, but you're most likely going to need a new radiator. Yes, transmission fluid will come out when you disconnect the tranny lines from the radiator. just disconnect them first and collect the tranny fluid, then drain the radiator and collect the coolant in a different container.
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do I then plug the lines or is it just a cup that comes out of the tranny lines? I just stayed up all night reading and researching about crimping being a common fix. cool. classic drip at cold minnesota and stops when warmed up. Am now going for a removal tool and its the next thing I'll do. Crappies bitin' like mad here in mid Minnesota. Thank you.
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
You can't order a readiator "gasket". You can try crimping down the tanks more, but you're most likely going to need a new radiator. Yes, transmission fluid will come out when you disconnect the tranny lines from the radiator. just disconnect them first and collect the tranny fluid, then drain the radiator and collect the coolant in a different container.
[/b]
do I then plug the lines or is it just a cup that comes out of the tranny lines? I just stayed up all night reading and researching about crimping being a common fix. cool. classic drip at cold minnesota and stops when warmed up. Am now going for a removal tool and its the next thing I'll do. Crappies bitin' like mad here in mid Minnesota. Thank you.
[/b][/quote]

dang, went and bought the tran line remover tool and put it on the top line for a quick reference to see if I got the right size. It fit fine around the steel line but it butted up against a little black nut that went into a rusted bigger nut that was held in place with a thin bigger nut against the radiator. Is this an adapter? It doesnt look like any thing pushes in. Do I just free up the rusty middle bolt ( I soaked it w PB blaster) that seems to butt the 2 connections together? No tool needed? And then do I need some kind of thread sealent later after re installation? getting there... thanks 93 3.o vulcan
 

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You do not need a disconnect tool to remove the lines from the radiator, you just need to hold the bigger nut(not the thin one on the radiator) with a wrench and spin the smaller nut closer to the line off. Definately want to penetrate(pb blaster) as much as you can before the repair. Some trans fluid will drip out, but not shoot out or anything.
 

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You do not need a disconnect tool to remove the lines from the radiator, you just need to hold the bigger nut(not the thin one on the radiator) with a wrench and spin the smaller nut closer to the line off. Definately want to penetrate(pb blaster) as much as you can before the repair. Some trans fluid will drip out, but not shoot out or anything.
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cool. thanks for the info. I shoveled another 9 " of snow tonight from the driveway (3rd time in 2 weeks), got the sniffles ...but I,m gonna go for this tomorrow. I'll post the results or problems I run into. Waiting for a week to get this new purchase out on the freeway for a proper roadtrip.
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
You do not need a disconnect tool to remove the lines from the radiator, you just need to hold the bigger nut(not the thin one on the radiator) with a wrench and spin the smaller nut closer to the line off. Definately want to penetrate(pb blaster) as much as you can before the repair. Some trans fluid will drip out, but not shoot out or anything.
[/b]
cool. thanks for the info. I shoveled another 9 " of snow tonight from the driveway (3rd time in 2 weeks), got the sniffles ...but I,m gonna go for this tomorrow. I'll post the results or problems I run into. Waiting for a week to get this new purchase out on the freeway for a proper roadtrip.
[/b][/quote]

O.K. I started at 9 this morning. Its -3F out and touching any metal is brutal after 15 seconds, intermittent glove user. Its taken till afternoon to get everything out of the way, grounds,moving alt wiring, fan shroud tranlines (no tool needed), going to buy a 10mm socket for the airbag sensor and radiator mounts.
1 step at a time, run in for coffee and Irish tea every so often. everything except the last attachment, the lower radiator hose.The clamp has distorted the rubber and cant get it to move more than 1/4 inch. Suppose it doesnt help that the weather is below zero. It'll rotate but not come off (limited space to work with. I'll do a bunch more reading here to catch any tricks. That hose dissappears so I really dont want to take it off at the other end, or scrap it yet. Any tricks? Thanks.
 

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If you're buying tools, you should just go some place like Lowes or Sears, and get a nice portable tool kit. One that has 30-50 pieces should have a good assortment of 1/4" and 3/8" drive sockets and ratchets, as well as maybe a couple of screwdrivers or pliers. You definitely don't want to nickel and dime yourself with buying just one or two sockets at a time.

The air bag sensors should be 8mm.


Tricks??? You got it........ LINK
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you're buying tools, you should just go some place like Lowes or Sears, and get a nice portable tool kit. One that has 30-50 pieces should have a good assortment of 1/4" and 3/8" drive sockets and ratchets, as well as maybe a couple of screwdrivers or pliers. You definitely don't want to nickel and dime yourself with buying just one or two sockets at a time.

The air bag sensors should be 8mm.


Tricks??? You got it........ LINK
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nice pics. everything all looks the same. Just cant get that lower radiator hose off. Frustrating that the whole radiator is undone, practically dancing around in there, except ball and chained by the low rad hose. I got the spring clamp far up the hose out of the way but hose is squisshed and doesnt wanna slide off. I can't get enough muscle on it. I've now read every post w radiator,hose, trans cool line for searches. Maby wrap some handwarmer pouches around hose and then insulate it? Its below zero(unheated garage). no prob without coolent in car as far as rust/moisture is concerned for a few days is there? I plugged the upper big hose, car is on jacks
 

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ok a day later, its 25 degrees out and sunny Happy new year! Went after that radiator hose and I got my second arm in there, that and being warm out (not -3 like before), and a day with out the clamp, she popped right off. those spring clamps are really fun to mess with, flashlight in my mouth,steamcloud blocking my view everytime I breath, snot running down my nose took a while to wrangle. ok next time ill get the bent needlenose. wait... i replaced with wormclamps. so I get the radiator out and take inside for inspection stick it in the utility sink and give her a rinse through the outside fins, holy dirty dirty batman. plastic molding datecode said march of 93 on inlet tank (maby origional,16yrs old). found a 2" hair crack under inlet so I guess its not through the gasket. I'll check my motor mounts. But before buying a new radiator, I went out and bought the 2 tube epoxy fix, dremmeled out the crack a little sanded around it for grip and epoxyed it. Then I crimped all around the tabs, I had to go tighter than the 27/64 suggested and now put her back in and all I have left is tightening lower rad hose, crash sensor bolt, and fanshroud,and put antifreeze in it and I'm all set. (Warming up the toes right now) I'm not getting too excited about fixing the crack, but worth a try. Ill drop down on a few new things after the weather is a bit more agreeable (no Frozen hands) or if she starts leaking again. stay tuned
 

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also, i got a little trick for getting those stubborn hoses off. (especially in freezing weather!!)

If your not afraid of replacing the hose or your really careful, use a heat gun (or flame torch which is what I use.. but then again.. experience...) and heat up the outside of the hose that's over the fitting.. Hope this helps!

Be REALLY careful with an open flame(I cant stress this enough!!). Preferably use a Hair dryer or heat gun.
 

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In all my recent searching about how to do the radiator gig, I came across the info of accidentally crimping the tranny cooling steel line, so I was careful not to mistreat the loose lines and I got the rad all hooked up, started it fine,went to go look for leaks and darn, 1/2 cup tran fluid.
It came from 1 rusty spot on the steel line 1 inch past the rubber hose with the square crimp right under the radiator. Pause...ok this is good, I found a trouble spot in a controlled environ rather than on the side of the road. What kind of splicing does one use and where is the best place to start clipping and what works toolwise to cut steel lines so you dont crimp the end,hacksaw? filing contamination worries?
I'm not too bummed out. This wagon is in suprisingly good shape for a 93 and MN salty roads. 1 dime sized rust spot on rear door,thats it,and a few componants lightly underneath.
 

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ok, I found the steel line leak and took a triangle hand file and cut it in half. The steel retainers caused the rusting. I'm gonna chop out a foot of line and just get tran hose and hoseclamps. Ive got 1 and a half inches of steel line to connect to,( thought it was all rusty and would have to cut into the old rubber hose too), but nope. so thats the next step. I want to see a freeway billboard by tonignt, thats the goal.
 

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ok, I found the steel line leak and took a triangle hand file and cut it in half. The steel retainers caused the rusting. I'm gonna chop out a foot of line and just get tran hose and hoseclamps. Ive got 1 and a half inches of steel line to connect to,( thought it was all rusty and would have to cut into the old rubber hose too), but nope. so thats the next step. I want to see a freeway billboard by tonignt, thats the goal.
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How did it go? :x:
 

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It went well, 18" of tranny hose for 5$ and a few worm clamps and I dont have to worry about the tran cooler line rusting out under the radiator. Did a few loops around the neighborhood, checked my fluid levels,no drips, and went for a clip on the freeway and saw a billboard, hehe. Its been a couple days and 70 miles later so far so good. I did look at the engine movement through the open hood when I switched from P to reverse and drive and the motor did move back and than forth about an inch, so Ill have to read more about motor mounts... caught a big fat black crappie tonight ice fishing and it measured 13 and 3/4 inches. most avg around 9.5 to 11". Now onto getting the rear windshield wiper and window defogger to work and I'm set. Thanks. 93 vulcan wagon gl 126,000 P.S. All the pictures I've seen so far (20) of rear wagon wipers rest toward the driver side, mine rests on the pass side. hmmm...
 

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wipers and rear defrost now work. :) Used a tester light (term?), and checked fuses good then checked wires before they came out of rear liftgate, and 1 of 4 didnt light up. Then I saw right in front of me the little strip welded onto back of window had undone itself, put a piece of eletric tape on it and sure enough, it worked. One side of rear wiper is real low (where it comes to rest and the other side is up higher on the window. not horizontal) Can I somehow reposition the arm on the rear motor. how does that darm arm come off? I undid the little chrome clip but arm wouldn't budge. Technique or just pb blaster? P.S. both fuse 13 and 15 didnt light up the tester even after replacing both fuses ??? All the stuff associated seems to work...thanks
 

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QUOTE (93bullrider @ Jan 7 2009, 06:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=689962
wipers and rear defrost now work. :) Used a tester light (term?), and checked fuses good then checked wires before they came out of rear liftgate, and 1 of 4 didnt light up. Then I saw right in front of me the little strip welded onto back of window had undone itself, put a piece of eletric tape on it and sure enough, it worked. One side of rear wiper is real low (where it comes to rest and the other side is up higher on the window. not horizontal) Can I somehow reposition the arm on the rear motor. how does that darm arm come off? I undid the little chrome clip but arm wouldn't budge. Technique or just pb blaster? P.S. both fuse 13 and 15 didnt light up the tester even after replacing both fuses ??? All the stuff associated seems to work...thanks[/b]


It's been 1700 miles and the epoxy fixed crack on the radiator is holding. Not a drop leaked. - Farenheit out and snowing though, still, 2 months later... ;)
 

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QUOTE (rudedog @ Dec 31 2008, 06:34 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=688429
If you're buying tools, you should just go some place like Lowes or Sears, and get a nice portable tool kit. One that has 30-50 pieces should have a good assortment of 1/4" and 3/8" drive sockets and ratchets, as well as maybe a couple of screwdrivers or pliers. You definitely don't want to nickel and dime yourself with buying just one or two sockets at a time.

The air bag sensors should be 8mm.


Tricks??? You got it........ LINK[/b]
How did you get the fan to fit. I did the exact same thing (buying the rad with the extra row), and the stock fan hit the exhaust manifold...
 
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