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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day when it was about 110 outside my wife was parked and the Sable spewed a huge amount of coolant on the ground. She put a gallon of water in and drove it home, where it again vomited on the street. I was disgusted and let the car sit a for a couple of days (yeah, the same car we just had all the problems getting a new axle and hub into). I finally refilled the reservoir and ran the car for awhile. Nothing. Nada. No leaks anywhere. I drove it around; she drove it to church today and shopping. Nada again. No leak, no drips. It did not overheat during any of this (according to the guage).

So...what the heck is up?? Funky t-stat?? It's almost new. But....:huh:
 

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Usually when it 'spews' like what you have described, it's because the coolant has reached it's boiling temp and it is exploding all at once.

Pressure test the reservior. You can get a pressure test kit with the Ford cap adapter at Autozone. If it holds the 16psi then your system is good. This is also a great way to see if anything is leaking.

If that works, it may be the cap that is failing and not holding the pressure.

One of the reasons why these systems is pressurized is so that the water does not boil when 'cooling' the engine. As you recall, water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The engine will get above this on those hot days.

Pressure helps increase the water boiling point above what the engine should be getting to. If the system isn't holding pressure at some point then the water could very quickly heat up and expand and 'explode'. This is also why you should never unscrew the cap from a hot engine. The coolant will explode all over you.
 

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One of the reasons why these systems is pressurized is so that the water does not boil when 'cooling' the engine. As you recall, water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The engine will get above this on those hot days.

Pressure helps increase the water boiling point above what the engine should be getting to. If the system isn't holding pressure at some point then the water could very quickly heat up and expand and 'explode'. This is also why you should never unscrew the cap from a hot engine. The coolant will explode all over you.
Antifreeze is added to the water to raise the boiling point so it won't boil at 212 unless it's pure water in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, all the new antifreeze went with the first spewing. I just replaced the reservoir tank a few months ago. The problem with the screw on caps is that places like Autozone don't have pressure testers for them. I'm looking for a coolant pressure testing set, but even good used ones are expensive.

The weather cooled off for a few days but will get back to 100+ very soon. Now I have to gat at least 1 gallon of water out so I can replace the coolant it lost.:angry::angry::angry:
 

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Usually when it 'spews' like what you have described, it's because the coolant has reached it's boiling temp and it is exploding all at once.

Pressure test the reservior. You can get a pressure test kit with the Ford cap adapter at Autozone. If it holds the 16psi then your system is good. This is also a great way to see if anything is leaking.

If that works, it may be the cap that is failing and not holding the pressure.

One of the reasons why these systems is pressurized is so that the water does not boil when 'cooling' the engine. As you recall, water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The engine will get above this on those hot days.

Pressure helps increase the water boiling point above what the engine should be getting to. If the system isn't holding pressure at some point then the water could very quickly heat up and expand and 'explode'. This is also why you should never unscrew the cap from a hot engine. The coolant will explode all over you.
Antifreeze is added to the water to raise the boiling point so it won't boil at 212 unless it's pure water in there.
you are both correct the increased pressure (from heat) and the addition of antifreeze both help to raise the boiling point. look for signs of leaking (white crusty stains) to help figure out where it leaked from. if you know of anyone with a scanner have them check out what the pcm is reading for coolent temp when it is hot. also check for rusting at any metal hoses. in my experience when you have a leak and you shut the car off it pours out much faster so a small leak while running may seem alot larger after you shut the car off especially on hot days with higher pressures. another thing that wouldnt hurt to check would be to make sure the cooling fan operates, you can check this by turning the a/c on while the car is idling (on most cars it is always on during a/c operation)
 

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I just replaced the reservoir tank a few months ago. The problem with the screw on caps is that places like Autozone don't have pressure testers for them. I'm looking for a coolant pressure testing set, but even good used ones are expensive.

Autozone does have a pressure tester for the screw on 'click' caps. I know this because I rented it and the adapter for the Ford threads to pressure test my reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Autozone does have a pressure tester for the screw on 'click' caps. I know this because I rented it and the adapter for the Ford threads to pressure test my reservoir.
I'll check on the pressure tester. There's been a lot of new guys at AZ lately who don't seem to know what tools they have available.

Everything...and I mean every accessory, belt, hose, tube, component, etc. has been replaced under the hood and under the chassis in the past two years. Yet, the problems continue...repeat problems of the same replaced components. :angry:

I didn't find any evidence of leaking, so I'll assume it came out the "overflow" from the reservoir. That would take a lot of heat and pressure I think. Considering my wife says it did not show overheat I'm puzzled. Anyway, I'll try draining out the excess water and refilling it with coolant to 50/50 total mix.
 

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I'll check on the pressure tester. There's been a lot of new guys at AZ lately who don't seem to know what tools they have available.

Everything...and I mean every accessory, belt, hose, tube, component, etc. has been replaced under the hood and under the chassis in the past two years. Yet, the problems continue...repeat problems of the same replaced components. :angry:

I didn't find any evidence of leaking, so I'll assume it came out the "overflow" from the reservoir. That would take a lot of heat and pressure I think. Considering my wife says it did not show overheat I'm puzzled. Anyway, I'll try draining out the excess water and refilling it with coolant to 50/50 total mix.

If its a Vulcan 2v, and your degass tank has brown crud in it. do NOT just refill it. You need to fully flush it out before reloading the coolant.
And double check to make sure the degass tank is NOT cracked at
the bottom..

bob
 

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Everything...and I mean every accessory, belt, hose, tube, component, etc. has been replaced under the hood and under the chassis in the past two years. Yet, the problems continue...repeat problems of the same replaced components. :angry:
Are you using Motorcraft parts, or at least reading reviews before buying parts?

Seriously, the guys at the parts counter will say they all work the same but the reality is quite different.

I certainly hope that you have been doing most of the work yourself, because all those replacements would be expensive! (Almost as bad as when my Dad got raped for ~$1,200 to replace the A/C condenser and rebuild the dryer.)
 

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Are you using Motorcraft parts, or at least reading reviews before buying parts?

Seriously, the guys at the parts counter will say they all work the same but the reality is quite different.


I certainly hope that you have been doing most of the work yourself, because all those replacements would be expensive! (Almost as bad as when my Dad got raped for ~$1,200 to replace the A/C condenser and rebuild the dryer.)
I thought the dryer was a non serviceable part... :huh:

Also I agree with the sentiment boldfaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you using Motorcraft parts, or at least reading reviews before buying parts?

Seriously, the guys at the parts counter will say they all work the same but the reality is quite different.

I certainly hope that you have been doing most of the work yourself, because all those replacements would be expensive! (Almost as bad as when my Dad got raped for ~$1,200 to replace the A/C condenser and rebuild the dryer.)
Not necessarily Motorcraft...mostly what the aftermarket places sell. Yeah, I do a lot of my own, and fortunately have a couple of sons who are very experienced mechanics. The car does have over 158,000 miles so I expect things to wear out, but I've replaced too many of them two or three times. Rear brake calipers/rotors/etc. are real junk. The rear hatch and window lock mechanism broke so I went to the junkyard and got another. It lasted about 2 weeks and a different piece broke, again making the door and window inoperative. In the last two months it's a new compresor and dryer, new hub and 2nd axle, coolant reservoir, and now the "check engine" has come on just before time to have it smogged.

I'd junk it or sell it for a fraction of the new parts in it but it's perfect for my wife and grandkids as a taxi, and the a/c blows cold any time we need it.
 

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Not necessarily Motorcraft...mostly what the aftermarket places sell. Yeah, I do a lot of my own, and fortunately have a couple of sons who are very experienced mechanics. The car does have over 158,000 miles so I expect things to wear out, but I've replaced too many of them two or three times. Rear brake calipers/rotors/etc. are real junk. The rear hatch and window lock mechanism broke so I went to the junkyard and got another. It lasted about 2 weeks and a different piece broke, again making the door and window inoperative. In the last two months it's a new compresor and dryer, new hub and 2nd axle, coolant reservoir, and now the "check engine" has come on just before time to have it smogged.

I'd junk it or sell it for a fraction of the new parts in it but it's perfect for my wife and grandkids as a taxi, and the a/c blows cold any time we need it.
The only economical way to keep an old car running is to NOT buy most
of the parts at the dealership. Thats just a fact of beater keeping.

90% of the parts you need are available aftermarket. Yea, some are better than others. Some you will buy more than once. You can afford to buy
a LOT of your own parts on an older car if you do the labor yourself.

bob
 

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For me when the nickel and dime repairs begin to add up to car payments each month, or the vehicle lets me sit by the side of the road too many times, its time to look for a new ride.

My coolant tank was leaking, replaced. It seems to me from reading posts, that the Taurus has more coolant issues than I have ever had in any car I have owned. I have never had any coolant issues prior to this car. A good flush and fill every 2 yrs. and good to go. I have had a few 3.0L Dodge transverse mounted engine cars and zero coolant problems.(92 Daytona ES,93 Plymouth Duster 2 door, 97 Avenger ES coupe) It is almost as if the coolant system and the transmissions in the Taurus are too weak for the basic operation of the car. I plan on flushing coolant every 15-20K miles on this Vulcan. I will also be adding a trans cooler as well.
 

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Just to throw out another idea is it possible a bad head gasket is causing the coolant to over pressurize and blowout? I know that doesn't sound likely since it didn't do it again but I've pulled heads off for other reasons only to discover that a gasket had blown and crusted shut enough to minimize the symptoms. Watching for the tell-tale puff of steam at start-up, pulling the plugs for visual inspection, or sticking an exhaust gas anylizer in the open radiator cap before it gets too hot could rule that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just to throw out another idea is it possible a bad head gasket is causing the coolant to over pressurize and blowout? I know that doesn't sound likely since it didn't do it again but I've pulled heads off for other reasons only to discover that a gasket had blown and crusted shut enough to minimize the symptoms. Watching for the tell-tale puff of steam at start-up, pulling the plugs for visual inspection, or sticking an exhaust gas anylizer in the open radiator cap before it gets too hot could rule that out.
Hmmmmmm...scary thought, but a possibility. It did it again yesterday after a week + without any problems. The ambient temp was up to 100 yeasterday, but the car didn't overheat or lose nearly as much coolant. The tank was overfilled from the last time because I assumed it would go down when th ecar warmed up---but didn't. Now, it's back to normal level. ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Follow up:

The car spewed again 2 more times....both when ambient temps were around 110. It doesn't sem to have a problem at 100-105. Car shows no other overheating symptoms except a/c shuts down via its own self-protection circuits. No indication of head gasket failure.

Is it possible there might be an air bubble in the system...even after careful filling of the system and several regurgitations? If so, where could air be trapped?

Or, bad t-stat?
 

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Follow up:

The car spewed again 2 more times....both when ambient temps were around 110. It doesn't sem to have a problem at 100-105. Car shows no other overheating symptoms except a/c shuts down via its own self-protection circuits. No indication of head gasket failure.

Is it possible there might be an air bubble in the system...even after careful filling of the system and several regurgitation's? If so, where could air be trapped?

Or, bad t-stat?

Well, you could have the Taurus equivalent of hardening of the artery's.
If you have never had the water pump off, pull it off and change it.
In some situations, the impellers have rotted away and will degrade cooling
capacity. while you have it off, flush the block out through the water
pump block holes.

Other issue is the radiator. It might be plugged either internally or externally. you can try to back flush the fins. take the fans off and squirt with the hose nossles both directions. take the lower under radiator trim plate off when you flush for access. squirt some from underneath
between the condenser and radiator too.

also, make sure BOTH fans are running.

good luck.
 

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Did you check to make sure the electric fan is working? If it is, I'd be curious to know if it was also running when the water was boiling out. Could be an intermittent fan controller. I don't know about the Taurus but sometimes those fan controllers are also tied to the A/C which you mentioned was also shutting down.
 

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Follow up:

The car spewed again 2 more times....both when ambient temps were around 110. It doesn't sem to have a problem at 100-105.


Ambient temps of 100-110???? Are you nuts??? Move to Minnesota and it won't be a problem! LOL
 

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If the fans are running it may be the cap that can't hold pressure. You can test that at AZ too.
 
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