Anyone have any tips or step-by-steps on installing 4 new speakers and an aftermarket 4-channel amp in an '03 Taurus SE (ie, type of wiring harness, is there a factory amp that needs to be bypassed? How? . . . ). I'm keeping the factory stereo. Pretty generic question but I haven't done this in a while and I need a little push. Let me know if more details are needed. Thanks all.
Speaker An Amp Installation
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Do you have the Mach system or not?
Essentially it entails doing the same thing. You gotta run a power wire from the battery, and then hook up a ground for the amp (use a chassis bolt in the trunk). Then hook up a remote lead for it, it doesn't need a lot of power to turn it on so you can jack it off the radio power on the RCU.
After that it's essentially finding the wires for the speakers and hooking them up to the high level inputs on the amp. If you don't have high level inputs, you are going to need to use a line-out converter. Basically it takes a pair of speaker wires and converts them into RCAs so you can run them into the low level input into the amp. Then just wire the other end of the wires that you cut into the speaker wires. It's fairly simple to install an amp because you can just kind of sit it in between the wires.
Does anyone have the identification for the different colours of wire and what speakers they correspond with? If so please post it.
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That'll help a lot.
As for the speakers, that's not too difficult either. First though you will need to remove the back of the rear seat. Pull down the seats and undo the four bolts holding the back of the seat into the car. Then remove the clips around it and carefully pull out the seat. You can then pull off the carpet unit above the rear deck and get access to the speaker bolts. (Note: My 99 Sable has a grille over the speakers. If your car does too, you dont need to remove the rear deck to get at the rear speakers). Then just unplug the speaker from the small harness. You then just hook it up depending on the + and -. I would just say screw it and cut the factory harnesses off, that's what I did when I installed mine. But some argue that its easier to replace in case you want to remove your speakers and go back to stock in the future. So if you'd prefer that, go to Best Buy and get some. Plug those right into your factory harnesses and hook the wires up to the speakers.
The fronts are not too hard either. There are a few screws holding the door panel in...in my 99 it was one in the handle pocket, a couple on the side and around. Once you get all the screws out, using a screwdriver pry the panel off...it is held in by several small clips. Mine didn't come off and I didn't wanna mess with the harness for the power windows and locks so I just let the door panel hang. I had sufficient access to the front speakers that way. They have the little harnesses on them too. If you have factory installed tweeters you will see two wires going from that harness up to the door pod. Personally I would just disconnect these, because with the amp and everything you are going to get way more treble out of the front anyway. If you want to keep the high mounted tweeter sound, I'd suggest getting a new pair of tweeters because if you amplify these too much you'll probably blow them up.
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but to connect them just run them in series with the speaker and make sure the amp is 2 ohm stable of course. It probably is but just in case.
What amp and speakers are you planning on using. In case you aren't familiar, the stock speakers are all 5x7/6x8"...the crazy Ford/Mazda size.
As long as you don't have the Mach there is no factory amp that needs to be bypassed so you are fine. If you do, let us know and we'll be able to steer you in the right direction.
Good luck and welcome to the TCCA!
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Essentially it entails doing the same thing. You gotta run a power wire from the battery, and then hook up a ground for the amp (use a chassis bolt in the trunk). Then hook up a remote lead for it, it doesn't need a lot of power to turn it on so you can jack it off the radio power on the RCU.
After that it's essentially finding the wires for the speakers and hooking them up to the high level inputs on the amp. If you don't have high level inputs, you are going to need to use a line-out converter. Basically it takes a pair of speaker wires and converts them into RCAs so you can run them into the low level input into the amp. Then just wire the other end of the wires that you cut into the speaker wires. It's fairly simple to install an amp because you can just kind of sit it in between the wires.
Does anyone have the identification for the different colours of wire and what speakers they correspond with? If so please post it.
As for the speakers, that's not too difficult either. First though you will need to remove the back of the rear seat. Pull down the seats and undo the four bolts holding the back of the seat into the car. Then remove the clips around it and carefully pull out the seat. You can then pull off the carpet unit above the rear deck and get access to the speaker bolts. (Note: My 99 Sable has a grille over the speakers. If your car does too, you dont need to remove the rear deck to get at the rear speakers). Then just unplug the speaker from the small harness. You then just hook it up depending on the + and -. I would just say screw it and cut the factory harnesses off, that's what I did when I installed mine. But some argue that its easier to replace in case you want to remove your speakers and go back to stock in the future. So if you'd prefer that, go to Best Buy and get some. Plug those right into your factory harnesses and hook the wires up to the speakers.
The fronts are not too hard either. There are a few screws holding the door panel in...in my 99 it was one in the handle pocket, a couple on the side and around. Once you get all the screws out, using a screwdriver pry the panel off...it is held in by several small clips. Mine didn't come off and I didn't wanna mess with the harness for the power windows and locks so I just let the door panel hang. I had sufficient access to the front speakers that way. They have the little harnesses on them too. If you have factory installed tweeters you will see two wires going from that harness up to the door pod. Personally I would just disconnect these, because with the amp and everything you are going to get way more treble out of the front anyway. If you want to keep the high mounted tweeter sound, I'd suggest getting a new pair of tweeters because if you amplify these too much you'll probably blow them up.
What amp and speakers are you planning on using. In case you aren't familiar, the stock speakers are all 5x7/6x8"...the crazy Ford/Mazda size.
As long as you don't have the Mach there is no factory amp that needs to be bypassed so you are fine. If you do, let us know and we'll be able to steer you in the right direction.
Good luck and welcome to the TCCA!
Hmm good job Twilight! Personally though I prefer to run all new speaker wires, just because the colour coding can be a pain to figure out sometimes. That and if you run all new wires, and completely by pass the stock wiring system should you decide to put it back to stock all you have to do is take the wire and speakers out and plug everything else back in.
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1,308 Posts
i've got the color codes, but i think its just for gen3. I'd post it anyway but it's on the computer at home <_<
found this on google...not sure if it's completely right or not, but it's a good guide:
P o w e r
Memory (+12v Constant) Green Yellow
Ignition (+12v Switched) Yellow/Black
Ground (-) Black or Fat Red
Illumination Orange
Dimmer Orange/White
Power Antenna Blue (varies greatly)
S p e a k e r s
Right Front (+) White/Green
Right Front (-) Green/Orange
Left Front (+) Orange/Green
Left Front (-) Light Blue
Right Rear (+) Pink/Blue
Right Rear (-) Green/orange
Left Rear (+) Pink/green
Left Rear (-) Pink/Blue
found this on google...not sure if it's completely right or not, but it's a good guide:
P o w e r
Memory (+12v Constant) Green Yellow
Ignition (+12v Switched) Yellow/Black
Ground (-) Black or Fat Red
Illumination Orange
Dimmer Orange/White
Power Antenna Blue (varies greatly)
S p e a k e r s
Right Front (+) White/Green
Right Front (-) Green/Orange
Left Front (+) Orange/Green
Left Front (-) Light Blue
Right Rear (+) Pink/Blue
Right Rear (-) Green/orange
Left Rear (+) Pink/green
Left Rear (-) Pink/Blue
First, thanks for the welcome and all the information!
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I picked up 4 Infinity 6803cf 5x7/6x8s and a 4 Channel Kenwood KAC-8401. Don't know if I have the Mach system or not. How does one tell? I don't have the book on the car so I don't even know the output of the stock stereo.
Running new cable for the speakers seems like a good option so I can go back to stock If I ever want to pull the equipment for some reason. Depending on my mood that day I also might just follow the color code posted here. I took a look at the back deck - no grills - and it looks as though the speakers are dropped in from the top.
It has RCA inputs but I think I am supposed to us the speaker level input that looks like a 10 pin plug and has a harness with 8 wires that plug into it. Where is a good place to mount the amp? Screw it to the back of the seat?
I picked up 4 Infinity 6803cf 5x7/6x8s and a 4 Channel Kenwood KAC-8401. Don't know if I have the Mach system or not. How does one tell? I don't have the book on the car so I don't even know the output of the stock stereo.
Running new cable for the speakers seems like a good option so I can go back to stock If I ever want to pull the equipment for some reason. Depending on my mood that day I also might just follow the color code posted here. I took a look at the back deck - no grills - and it looks as though the speakers are dropped in from the top.
It has RCA inputs but I think I am supposed to us the speaker level input that looks like a 10 pin plug and has a harness with 8 wires that plug into it. Where is a good place to mount the amp? Screw it to the back of the seat?
Back of the seat works fine.
I prefer running new wires too, simply because the stock wires are so tiny and I'd rather have a bigger wire (my car is wired with 16gauge to all the speakers).
Good choice on the parts. Those all don't suck.
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If you have the Mach system your tweeter door pods will say "MACH AUDIO" on them. If not you don't have the Mach and there is nothing to bypass.
And I'd recommend using the speaker level inputs, that way you won't need to buy a line-out converter. You can also use the Kenwood amp as a pass through, I believe it has RCA outs too, in case you ever wanted to add a sub.
I prefer running new wires too, simply because the stock wires are so tiny and I'd rather have a bigger wire (my car is wired with 16gauge to all the speakers).
Good choice on the parts. Those all don't suck.
If you have the Mach system your tweeter door pods will say "MACH AUDIO" on them. If not you don't have the Mach and there is nothing to bypass.
And I'd recommend using the speaker level inputs, that way you won't need to buy a line-out converter. You can also use the Kenwood amp as a pass through, I believe it has RCA outs too, in case you ever wanted to add a sub.
Thanks for the kudos on the purchase. It's amazing what you can find online for much cheaper than what Circuit City offers. I do not have the Mach system so no complicated wiring. Guess I'm ready to go. It has RCA outs too but I traded in the sub in for the 4 speakers. I didn't want to blow out the neighborhood.
One more question: Do I need to buy a wiring harness for the radio?
One more question: Do I need to buy a wiring harness for the radio?
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64 Posts
your going to keep the stock deck right? if so, then no you will not need the wire harness. the wire harness is a little thing that you hook up to an after market deck, then just plug it into your stock wire harness.
twilight, the only problem i spotted with your post was the 2 ohm stable coment, if he runs them in series it will raise the ohms, not decrease. he would need to run them parallel to decrease the ohms. other than that it was pretty much right on.
twilight, the only problem i spotted with your post was the 2 ohm stable coment, if he runs them in series it will raise the ohms, not decrease. he would need to run them parallel to decrease the ohms. other than that it was pretty much right on.
Well since I have the Mach, and am about to install a 4 channel amp to feed some Infinity components, what would be different for the Mach set up?
I'm hoping I have some low level inputs to tap into when I remove the stock Mach amp????
How is the Mach system put together anyhow? What components does it have? For example is it a head unit, amp, FM unit, and optional CD? Or is the amp and FM unit all in one?
Thanks,
-Wayne
I'm hoping I have some low level inputs to tap into when I remove the stock Mach amp????
How is the Mach system put together anyhow? What components does it have? For example is it a head unit, amp, FM unit, and optional CD? Or is the amp and FM unit all in one?
Thanks,
-Wayne
G
Guest
·I think the only difference between the mach and non mach are the speakers and the rcu in the trunk. That is how it was in 96 with the jbl system, dont know if the main concept has changed.
As for a harness it is up to you. There is no harness which you can buy which will take care of all of your needs for installing a 4/5 channel amp. However, I made mine for around $40 which allowed me to install my amp without cutting a single audio wire. You can also get speaker adapters from circuit city to install your speakers without having to cut the factory plugs off the harness (this is if you choose not to send new wires to the speakers).
As for a harness it is up to you. There is no harness which you can buy which will take care of all of your needs for installing a 4/5 channel amp. However, I made mine for around $40 which allowed me to install my amp without cutting a single audio wire. You can also get speaker adapters from circuit city to install your speakers without having to cut the factory plugs off the harness (this is if you choose not to send new wires to the speakers).
Update:
I got the two rear speakers in place and was ready to run the cabling. Then at work the next day, some a****** broke into my car and took the other two speakers, the amp and my tools out of my trunk. The one day I leave something valuable in my car...
Thanks for everyones help, it would have come out great. At least I still have two speakers.
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I got the two rear speakers in place and was ready to run the cabling. Then at work the next day, some a****** broke into my car and took the other two speakers, the amp and my tools out of my trunk. The one day I leave something valuable in my car...
Thanks for everyones help, it would have come out great. At least I still have two speakers.
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2,458 Posts
DAMN!Originally posted by charlio@Feb 6 2004, 10:23 AM
Update:
I got the two rear speakers in place and was ready to run the cabling. Then at work the next day, some a****** broke into my car and took the other two speakers, the amp and my tools out of my trunk. The one day I leave something valuable in my car...
Thanks for everyones help, it would have come out great. At least I still have two speakers.
![]()
Did they bust out a window and then enter the trunk, or did they crowbar the trunk open?
Well, I guess I had better luck then him.
i popped open the passenger door and discovered that it already had anolder set of Infinity 5x7 refrence speakers in the front. I pulled them out and popped in the new Infinity components I bought for the front. I'll put the older 5x7s into the rear deck.
Guess that explains why mine sounds better then some had said. Anyhow the components don't sound as good since they are driven off the Mach system so far. I hope they just need more power. I have not had a chance to install the amps and see how bad the Mach sounds feeding amps. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
-Wayne
i popped open the passenger door and discovered that it already had anolder set of Infinity 5x7 refrence speakers in the front. I pulled them out and popped in the new Infinity components I bought for the front. I'll put the older 5x7s into the rear deck.
Guess that explains why mine sounds better then some had said. Anyhow the components don't sound as good since they are driven off the Mach system so far. I hope they just need more power. I have not had a chance to install the amps and see how bad the Mach sounds feeding amps. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
-Wayne
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