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Sorry if this is a repost, I can't find anything about it when I searched. I have the water injection that I'll be installing here within a half an hour. It suggests copper spark plugs over double platinum. I guess for the temperature to convert the water into steam?

Anyways Autozone only has platinum plugs and wouldn't sell me anything else because that's what ford recommened. I went to the dealership and they were trying to get me to buy some single platinum (wire plugs?) that were 4.80 a piece.

To get copper ones with a 1.3-1.4mm gap am I going to have to order them or buy some and regap them? How much is a spark plug gapper cost? ANY advice would be appreciated.

It will be installed today either way, but for the fuel economy the coppers are suggested. Thanks.
 

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What about irritium (sp) plugs... aren't they higher temp then platium?

-Dan
 

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A spark plug gapper cost me i think 99 cents at advanced. its not hard gapping your own spark plugs. And as far as i know i've always been told to go with platinum spark plugs. But for what your doing i'm not sure which is better. I have 3.0L vulcan and my gapp measurment was .44. I'm not sure what engine your doing or what kind of car, but thats an offly big gap for a spark plug.
 

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I remember reading somewhere that the duratec needed plat plugs because of the DIS set up it uses. Something about the waste spark going through the electrodes backwards or something. I can't remember because I read it so long ago, sorry. But if I were I'd wait a little longer to see what some of the tech advisors recommend.
 

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Is $178 a good price for getting your plugs changed? That does not include the plugs themselves. I bought plugs the other day, thinking I could put them in myself, but I tried to take off the upper intake manifold and just could not get it off, so I said screw it, I'll let a repair shop do it.
 

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Originally posted by SpeedyGreeny@Aug 7 2005, 10:44 AM
Is $178 a good price for getting your plugs changed? That does not include the plugs themselves. I bought plugs the other day, thinking I could put them in myself, but I tried to take off the upper intake manifold and just could not get it off, so I said screw it, I'll let a repair shop do it.
NOOOOO!!! OMG WHAT ARE THEY THINKING!!! Wow theyre really trying to rip you off hardcore, the front 3 take like not even 5min, the back 3 isnt easy but still
you ever quoted you 178$, plz sack him as hard as you can oh and multiple times
btw do the front 3 yourself and just ask some garage to do the back 3 if you cant
 

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Kermit what the f? AutoZone refused to sell you coppers because they aren't recommended?? Whoever that dumbass was deserves a good slap upside the head about 40 miles an hour.

Anyway...yeah a gapper is no more than a few bucks. Supposedly the wire type is better, where you have wires of discrete thicknesses. The other type is a little metal disc that continually gets thicker, which I hear is less accurate.
 

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Did anyone even notice the date of the original post? Over a year old, I would think he got what worked by now, lol :lol2:
 

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It's nice that people are searching for stuff. But the golden rule is.
If my engine came with copper, i will put copper back.
If my engine came with platinum, i will put platinum back.
 

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Maybe, but the only advantage of platinum is that it lasts longer. If I had known how easy it would be to change my plugs, I would have bought copper and change them more often.
 

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Originally posted by sfontain@Aug 7 2005, 10:09 AM
Kermit what the f?  AutoZone refused to sell you coppers because they aren't recommended?? Whoever that dumbass was deserves a good slap upside the head about 40 miles an hour.
I worked at the 'zone and i can tell you why.
I only sold plugs that came with the engine because i did not want the people coming back and saying I sold him the wrong stuff. If they wanted something different, I always ask you sure about 5 times. Like his dude came back pissed because the Bosch +2 had his vic running like crap. He wanted to show his ass and stuff. Then my coworker said, look i remember you. You know I would not sell Bosch plugs for a ford, i told your ass to get motor-craft. The dude look at pissed and walked out. :laugh:
 

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Originally posted by holedigger@Aug 7 2005, 11:37 PM
Maybe, but the only advantage of platinum is that it lasts longer. If I had known how easy it would be to change my plugs, I would have bought copper and change them more often.
Platinum does not last too longer. Copper only last about 30k and platinum last about 50k. Not 100k like Gm, Ford,a nd other say
 

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Originally posted by RocketFast321@Aug 7 2005, 11:47 PM
Platinum does not last too longer. Copper only last about 30k and platinum last about 50k. Not 100k like Gm, Ford,a nd other say
*Cough*bullshit*Cough*
 

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It might be but I have been hearing that for a long time. And seen proof on my GA car club. But Mr. Robert how long does each last?
 

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Originally posted by RocketFast321@Aug 7 2005, 10:47 PM
Platinum does not last too longer. Copper only last about 30k and platinum last about 50k. Not 100k like Gm, Ford,a nd other say
Correct, they don't last as long as they would like you to think. That's just a marketing tool for idiots who think cars shouldn't require maintenance. I think it should be illegal to make such claims. It reminds me of the automatic transmissions that required no servicing. Many people are now tainted with the belief that transmissions are sealed boxes, not to be messed with.

Nevertheless, even you admitted that platinum does last longer. On cars with the waste-spark ignition system (1996+ Tauruses except those with COP), both of the electrodes must be platinum-plated to benefit from this, since the polarity varies between cylinders. If I remember correctly, the difference between the single- and double-platinum plugs is that the single-platinum ones are plated on one electrode only.

Copper on the other hand has the advantages of being much cheaper, and a better conductor of electricity. I was afraid of using them since I thought it would be difficult to change the back ones on the Duratec, but it was easy. I didn't even have to take the intake manifold off, so the gaskets I bought are still in the box.
 

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I have personaly seen Motorcraft Copper plugs last well beyond 100k miles, they shouldn't but more than a few dozen times I've done tune ups on customers cars with the original plugs and 6 digits on the odometer, and still running decent.
 

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Originally posted by RocketFast321+Aug 8 2005, 12:41 AM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (RocketFast321 @ Aug 8 2005, 12:41 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-sfontain@Aug 7 2005, 10:09 AM
Kermit what the f?  AutoZone refused to sell you coppers because they aren't recommended?? Whoever that dumbass was deserves a good slap upside the head about 40 miles an hour.
I worked at the 'zone and i can tell you why.
I only sold plugs that came with the engine because i did not want the people coming back and saying I sold him the wrong stuff. If they wanted something different, I always ask you sure about 5 times. Like his dude came back pissed because the Bosch +2 had his vic running like crap. He wanted to show his ass and stuff. Then my coworker said, look i remember you. You know I would not sell Bosch plugs for a ford, i told your ass to get motor-craft. The dude look at pissed and walked out. :laugh: [/b][/quote]
That's fine, but all I'm saying is, if the store sells the product and I say, "I want that one, here is my money," then it hardly seems that some dufus cashier should be telling me they won't sell me them just because I happen to own X car. If Kermit had walked in with the part number for the plugs, they would have handed them over immediately, which is numb.
 

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Originally posted by holedigger@Aug 8 2005, 01:19 AM
It reminds me of the automatic transmissions that required no servicing.
From my owners book. Also my car and our malibu don't have a dip stick for the tranny.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid
It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A
transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a
leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service
department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You
may also have your fluid level checked by your dealer
or service center when you have your oil changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90F (32C) or higher.
 In hilly or mountainous terrain.
 When doing frequent trailer towing.
 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing.
 
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