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Discussion Starter #1
Which would be better for me to use on my 2004 Duratec with COP not a Flex Fuel:

MOTORCRAFT Part # SP433
{#AGSF32WMF4} Finewire Platinum
Gap: .054; Type - Standard Service Plg; 6 required per vehicle

or

AUTOLITE Part # APP104
{#APP764} Double Platinum (Rebate/Promotion Available!)
GAP .054

These are on Rock Auto. I went on the Motorcraft page and put in my VIN and they have several plugs listed there. The only one they have listed from Rock is the Motorcraft finewire obviosuly. I keep reading to use a "double platinum" but it seems like these are used on Flex Fuel engines, not regular engines. Maybe that view is wrong.
 

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Both are good plugs, I have always used the fine wires in my 96 DOHC 24V but the double plats are great too!! Either would be just fine for you.
 

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I have the APP-104's in my car with no issues.

I believe that Autolite and Motorcraft are made by the same manufacturers so the only difference is Platinum compaired to double Platinum.
 

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Which would be better for me to use on my 2004 Duratec with COP not a Flex Fuel:

MOTORCRAFT Part # SP433
{#AGSF32WMF4} Finewire Platinum
Gap: .054; Type - Standard Service Plg; 6 required per vehicle

or

AUTOLITE Part # APP104
{#APP764} Double Platinum (Rebate/Promotion Available!)
GAP .054

These are on Rock Auto. I went on the Motorcraft page and put in my VIN and they have several plugs listed there. The only one they have listed from Rock is the Motorcraft finewire obviosuly. I keep reading to use a "double platinum" but it seems like these are used on Flex Fuel engines, not regular engines. Maybe that view is wrong.
I'm using the specified finewire iridium enhanced center electrode with platinum pad ground sidewire plugs in both of my Ford rides & in the wifes Neon, we enjoy quicker year round starts.
Autolite is said to make the Motorcraft plugs to Fords specs, so with the autolite rebate & Advance Auto online discount promo code I got them for a little over $2 ea last year.
Here are some sparkplug thoughts that might be helpful in making up your mind about which design plug design to use & why.
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/167085-spark-plug-mini-tutorial.html
 

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motorcraft plugs and wires in mine - picked up the car a few months back for 700$
took motorcraft plugs out of it and motorcraft wires that said "1999" on them, must have never been down on that car in 120,000

sheesh
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I purchased 6 Motorcraft SP433 Iridium Platinum plugs from Advance Auto Parts for $2.99 ea.

I checked the gaps on all six and have from .056 -.062. None are .054. How close to .054 do they have to be?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I purchased 6 Motorcraft SP433 Iridium Platinum plugs from Advance Auto Parts for $2.99 ea.

I checked the gaps on all six and have from .056 -.062. None are .054. How close to .054 do they have to be?
I re gapped them all to .054.

Another question...do I have to replace the UIM gaskets after I pull it to change the plugs?

BTW....if i were head of engineering at Ford and and engineer gave me an engine design where you had to pull the intake manifold to change spark plugs...I wouldn't only not approve the design...I'd FIRE the SOB!
 

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I re gapped them all to .054.

Another question...do I have to replace the UIM gaskets after I pull it to change the plugs?

BTW....if i were head of engineering at Ford and and engineer gave me an engine design where you had to pull the intake manifold to change spark plugs...I wouldn't only not approve the design...I'd FIRE the SOB!
I set mine to min specified gap, as the gap is always opening up with time, so the spark gap will stay in spec longer & having the gap on the min side will help a little with cold winter starts & it slightly advances the spark which will help some too.

I also butter the spark plug threads with a light coating of high temp nickle anti-sieze compound, to prevent them siezing in place, then torque to the Min side of spec, to allow for the anti-sieze lube effect.

I also butter the outside plug insulator & inside both plug wire boots with light coating of DowCorning or GE silicone grease, to prevent flashover on those wet dewy, or damp, rainy day starts.

I'd have the designers work on the assy line & at the Dealers, turning wrenches for at least 6 months each, before they'ed ever set their buns down at a CAD station to design something for me!!!!!.
 

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Bob, iirc, the gap spec is .052-.056, so, .054 (middle) is good. If the uim gasket isn't damaged, I wouldn't replace it, but it's your call.
 

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I re gapped them all to .054.

Another question...do I have to replace the UIM gaskets after I pull it to change the plugs?

BTW....if i were head of engineering at Ford and and engineer gave me an engine design where you had to pull the intake manifold to change spark plugs...I wouldn't only not approve the design...I'd FIRE the SOB!
The 96-03 upper intakes don't overhang that bank of the engine. All the newer duratecs do it. 3.0 from 04 onwards. The 3.5 does it, so does the 3.7 :\
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks everyone... I'm changing the plugs tomorrow morning (and probably into the afternoon and evening, with this UIM removal BS)

I'll tell you how it comes out....or what scrap yard I had it towed to.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What is the torque spec on the spark plugs? Nothing came with the box to even hint what it is.
 

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What is the torque spec on the spark plugs? Nothing came with the box to even hint what it is.
Plugs manufacturer sites usually list the torque. Is different for the ones with conical seat from the ones with deformable washer.
Of course, Motorcraft not being the manufacturer of said plugs (or any plugs), doesn't provide that "detail".
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did the deed today. Removing the UIM wasn't as daunting a task as I thought it would be, but it's still a stupid thing to have to do to just change plugs. The old plugs weren't half bad after 90K miles. Gaps were still in spec. I already notice better gas mileage on my fuel computer with the new iridiums, though.

Now on to the rear struts. Another brilliant design called a pinch bolt. I guess they don't have any more better ideas at Ford.
 

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Rear struts...if you live in a salt belt area...work the bolt out slowly. loosen 1 turn, tighten 1 turn, loosen 2 turns, tighten 1 turn, etc. Prevent the bolt from snapping the head off. Heavy applications of heat and PB Blaster help.

Or impact tools.

Or if you live in a non-salty area, crank 'em off!
 

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Bob, I wouldn't reuse or replace the oem pinch bolts. Instead, grab a couple of grade#8 7/16" bolts 2.5" long and matching nyloc (plastic insert) lock nuts. Never-seize everything, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bob, I wouldn't reuse or replace the oem pinch bolts. Instead, grab a couple of grade#8 7/16" bolts 2.5" long and matching nyloc (plastic insert) lock nuts. Never-seize everything, lol.
I figure with 216,000 miles on my Taurus, it will be the last set of struts it will see, so I bought two new pinch bolts to replace the old ones, but I guess never say never. I never thought I'd be pulling the UIM, either.

If I go with the 7/16" bolt. will I have to drill out the hole the pinch bolt came out of so they will fit? I don't have a 1/2" drill to handle a 1/2" bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Rear struts...if you live in a salt belt area...work the bolt out slowly. loosen 1 turn, tighten 1 turn, loosen 2 turns, tighten 1 turn, etc. Prevent the bolt from snapping the head off. Heavy applications of heat and PB Blaster help.

Or impact tools.

Or if you live in a non-salty area, crank 'em off!
Salt belt...!!! When people say pass the salt here where I live in MA, we just brush it off our sleeve.
 
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Bob R
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