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So there is a sound competition coming up. I have my new box installed, subs up port back. Right now I have two number 4 cables running from front to back. I have a two hundred amp alt under the hood.

Any suggestions?

I'm running a fusion NV2500.

I do have available enough 4/0 welding cable to do a positive and negative run front to back... Or just run one positive and switch my current power cables to ground.
 

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Add a battery in the trunk?

Also... you dont need to a run to the front for the negative. Our cars are unibodies so you can just make a good clean ground somewhere in the trunk.
 

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bigger doesn't always mean better. what's the power output on your amp? if you're not pushing at least 1200 watts, 4 guage is plenty. though if you wanna make your ground bigger, that's not a bad thing. just out of curiosity, how long's your ground?
 

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bigger doesn't always mean better. what's the power output on your amp? if you're not pushing at least 1200 watts, 4 guage is plenty. though if you wanna make your ground bigger, that's not a bad thing. just out of curiosity, how long's your ground?
When talking about electoral, of-course bigger is always better. Electrical current will take the path of least resistance. Bigger the wire the lest resistants on the total amount of current allowed to flow through.

IIRC he is only running like 800 rms.... 4/0 would be over kill for sure but it won't hurt anything. Its just allows for a better/cleaner power.
 

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1 run of 1/0 is good enough for 3000-3500w so no need for 4/0..
 

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So there is a sound competition coming up. I have my new box installed, subs up port back. Right now I have two number 4 cables running from front to back. I have a two hundred amp alt under the hood.

Any suggestions?

I'm running a fusion NV2500.

I do have available enough 4/0 welding cable to do a positive and negative run front to back... Or just run one positive and switch my current power cables to ground.
ditto and times three on the batts and eletrical up grades here is another one sound deadener most of all on spl cars a lot is needed. i noticed a 3db gain just from e dead elemantal designs brand of course i put 300-500 total on the car / truck i used twice that. you hear it out side but you do not hear it as well there is no humming from the roof vibration in my truck i will tell you that much. but it is some thing to think about in the future.


almost forgot what db slope is you x over for those power subs if it 24 db's try to get another amp they were made for a 12 db slop x over. this is why i alway suggest that sony i suggest the xm-gtr9001d it has a slectable x over for 12 and 24 db slope i have noticed a 5-6 db drop when using the 24 db slope they do not get as loud as they should. just a tip
 

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what do you think conducts better, steel or copper?


funny you point that out copper does conduct better but for long runs of gague and kcmill wire you can get what is call i squared r or copper loss which is in watts lost. so he is limited by the gauge not the vehicle shell at this point. the cars shell will conduct more then will a 4/0 gague wire. but to keep distortion to a minium they suggest keeping the ground shorter then 3 feet to frame . but like you said you can do that run 4/0 off the batt. but it is a waste of wire this is why most do not.
 

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I've heard car frames are close to 1/0 gauge in conductivity. If they were any better then people with huge systems wouldn't be running multiple 1/0 line front to back ;) And ground wire length doesn't matter as long as it is a sufficient size, but of course the shortest route is the best because you will get less voltage drop. And quick question, how exactly do you get distortion through a power wire exactly? It's just supplying power, has nothing to do with the signal/distortion.
 

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I've heard car frames are close to 1/0 gauge in conductivity. If they were any better then people with huge systems wouldn't be running multiple 1/0 line front to back ;) And ground wire length doesn't matter as long as it is a sufficient size, but of course the shortest route is the best because you will get less voltage drop. And quick question, how exactly do you get distortion through a power wire exactly? It's just supplying power, has nothing to do with the signal/distortion.

the only way it could even do distortion is some thing like a unclean power supply were you would get alt wine etc in it or even engine noises from not having the radio capacitor. this and magnetism in side the unit it self which is like running your rca with power wires. this is if your ground is insufficient cause of the shielding in side the amp is grounded. this is were you could be limited by the shell of the car just like your saying. this is why they suggest keeping the grond short 3 foot of couse that is on a standard set up that most likely a small amp set up. not 20k rms etc...
 

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just to make it easier to understand why not to run a long ground it is the same reason as why not to run a 1/0 positive and a 4 gague negative does not get rid of enough threw the negative. so you over heat the amp etc... now with a longer cable the resistance goes up and flow capability down.

so if it cant get rid of the extra magnetic lines of flux that make power just like a dc generator or alternator that makes power. these lines of flux are emitted by transformers etc inside the amp it will add distortion to the music by induceing the a small electroinc flow in the wire. it will make a netron move to another position same reason there are conductor insolators and semiconductors some times they have a free netron or protron. and the magnetic lines of flux free them up or will not in the insolator stand point.


i hope i explianed enough trying not to drag it out. i am not a instructor so trying my best to keep it brief.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Im running minimum 1600W RMS on my subs, the amp draws perhaps up to 200amps.

The amp running my mids is an inefficient class a/b that draws 60 amps. So, full tilt, perhaps close to 250amps.

I've heard the conductivity of the body is more like a 4 gauge.

I bought the 4/0 for $12.07/M. Car audio shops in my area sell 1/0 for $5-$7Ft.

The welding cable is just as flexible as the 1/0 I have in the car right now. If you want to discuss this more with me, I notice there is a good discussion going on regardless, but I don't check here is often anymore, you can find me over there.

Thanks for the input.
 

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Id just do big 3, 1 run from postive to trunk, and a ground from amp to frame. You probably need new ring terminals to hook it all up. Dont forget a good ANL fuse if you don't have one already.
 
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