Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok i am looking at a few things now ether build the motor i have problems with or buy a motor the prices are close to build the motor or buy a motor $300.00 plus fuel and time 2+ hours away
i know the things i am going to list is not every thing but should repair it.
all prices are off rock auto
engine kit gasket set $56.79 + shipping
cylinder head bolts $16.99 + shipping
connecting rod bearings $30.79 + shipping
crankshaft main bearings $45.79 +shipping
camshaft bearings $24.79 + shipping
piston rings (cylinder that is low in compression) $19.34 + shipping
intake valve (cylinder that is low in compression) $6.52 + shipping
exhaust valve (cylinder that is low in compression) $8.60 + shipping
oil pump (fix the cause of the problem) $68.79
push rod $7.96 + shipping

TOTAL BEFORE SHIPPING $292.74 W/ SHIPPING $344.44

all so going to try my local auto part store see if it is cheaper
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Thats not bad, I would build the motor. He he, but if it was me I wouldn't stop there. I would go overboard and replace the pistons and connecting rods with high performance ones, so that it would be forced induction ready. But thats just cause I really want to run a turbo or supercharger on a 'tec someday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Alright, first thing's first, pull your cam synchro assembly. You said your cam position sensor failed, right? Did you find out what's wrong with it? Usually, the magnet in the sensor comes out, and smashes the tooth, ruining any reading. Or, the bearing seizes, and the cam strips away at the gear on the bottom. If the latter happened, the synchro drives the oil pump shaft off the cam, so those metal pieces go straight into your oil pump's drive system, and can seize it in a hurry. Not to mention your cam's gear can be damaged, and it's not far-fetched to see a warped camshaft, either.

So if you just changed the plastic piece on top of the CPS, pull the entire synchro. Otherwise, try and find the old piece and look at the gear. It might be more expensive to rebuild that engine if you need to replace the cam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alright, first thing's first, pull your cam synchro assembly. You said your cam position sensor failed, right? Did you find out what's wrong with it? Usually, the magnet in the sensor comes out, and smashes the tooth, ruining any reading. Or, the bearing seizes, and the cam strips away at the gear on the bottom. If the latter happened, the synchro drives the oil pump shaft off the cam, so those metal pieces go straight into your oil pump's drive system, and can seize it in a hurry. Not to mention your cam's gear can be damaged, and it's not far-fetched to see a warped camshaft, either.

So if you just changed the plastic piece on top of the CPS, pull the entire synchro. Otherwise, try and find the old piece and look at the gear. It might be more expensive to rebuild that engine if you need to replace the cam.
ok ill do that today can i pull the cam with the motor still in car or do i have to remove the motor
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
429 Posts
Also if you order from Rockauto make sure you look up a valid discount code on here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
ok ill do that today can i pull the cam with the motor still in car or do i have to remove the motor
No, the motor needs to be dropped. The time and expense of changing a cam is around what a new (read: used) engine would be, so I'd recommend checking the CPS and going from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No, the motor needs to be dropped. The time and expense of changing a cam is around what a new (read: used) engine would be, so I'd recommend checking the CPS and going from there.
i have it torn down to bottom end and i took some pics of the heads and i think i know where i am losing my compression first pic is bank 1
BANK 1

BANK 2
one with bad valve with a arrow pointing at it


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
CAMSHAFT POSITIONING SENSOR
I did look at the cam gear and it looks fine


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nope. That is 100% stripped. You see the raised part of the teeth at the top and bottom? It's supposed to be that high all the way down the tooth. That's what seized your oil pump.
i am thinking that the metal dropped down in the oil pan and the pump sucked up the metal killing the pump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
i am thinking that the metal dropped down in the oil pan and the pump sucked up the metal killing the pump
The shaft going down is the drive for the oil pump, so the metal would be hanging around there. It could drop directly in the oil pan, too, but either way; you don't want that stuff floating around your oil. Just keep in mind, your old oil pump ain't exactly good anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The shaft going down is the drive for the oil pump, so the metal would be hanging around there. It could drop directly in the oil pan, too, but either way; you don't want that stuff floating around your oil. Just keep in mind, your old oil pump ain't exactly good anymore.

no i do agree i am getting a newer motor my wifes dad called and said he is buying us a motor for 570.00 with low miles so that is the direction i am going.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top