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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay.. My name is Daniel and i just bought myself a Ford Taurus about 4 months ago.

2002 Ford Taurus SE V6 3.0L OHV
I bought it with 116,500+ Miles, and now i have to to about 118,000+ Miles on it.

The only thing i been able to do is, Oil/Filter Change, Air Filter, and a new battery.

It drives great but just recently has had some minor hesitation while cursing, and randomly when i place it in Park, the RPMS drop like if my car is about to shut off. I'd say it goes from Idle 650-700 RPMS to alsmost 150-200 RPMS, and jumps right back.. It will do this maybe 4-5 times, and then i would either turn off my car or put in in Nutral and it will stop, it still drives like a champ, but what is the problem with my car?
 

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First thing to do is clean or replace the IAC (idle air control) valve. Search here on how to do this. Many posts on this topic.
 

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You can try cleaning the IAC valve, I would try that first before replacing it. They can get gummed up and dirty, causing idle issues. You should also check if the throttle body, and the butterfly valve are dirty. Check the topic finder on the how-to with cleaning both those items. Did the CEL come on? You should also check the pcv valve hose for signs of cracking, and check that all the vac lines are not loose. You also said it hesitates while your driving it? That wouldn't be IAC valve related, that's why I also suggest looking for vac leaks. Another item that could be dirty is the MAF sensor, check the topic finder on cleaning that without ruining it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay thanks a lot guys!

I plan in January when work picks up again to do the following:

1)New Spark Plugs/wires
2)Ignition Coils
3)Transmission Flush
4)Replace PCV Valve
5)Fuel Filter
6)Oil Change/Filter

---------- And now check:
1)IAC - Replace it ?
2)Throttle body - Clean it
3)MAF Senors - Not sure what this is? But i should check it and clean it?
4)Butterfly Valves - Clean maybe replace it?
5)Vac Lines (I want to replaces all my hoes in the car, good idea?)


About CEL, what is that? Sorry i only know the basic about cars, and my car for that..

Ive Checked the Engine Light i got 3 Codes:
P1400 - Differential Press Feedback EGR Circuit Low Input
P0442 - EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Small)
P0457 - EVAP Emission Control System Leak Cap Loose/Off
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
And now the Oil Light turns on. I changed the Oil no more then 1,500 miles ago.. I checked the Dip Stick Oil in right level, and the color is not even close to black or anything.

Checked Transmission Oil, thats fine too
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did look up IAC, and found a post.. but this was happening a lot to this driver... Mine is randomaly, not everyday, does it mean my IAC is getting bad, or it might be somthing else?
 

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Is there a chirping noise coming from your engine, on the driver's side? Might sound like a belt squeaking. (118k miles, ...oil light, you other members know what I'm thinkin') CEL is the light on your dash that says Check Engine Soon or Service Engine Soon (CEL=Check Engine Light). You should see it light up briefly when you first turn the key on. If you don't see it light up briefly, the bulb is blown out. With your description of the way your Taurus is running, I'm surprised this lamp is not lit on your dashboard. You can go to most local chain auto parts stores and get them to scan your car's computer for "codes" (for free). This can tell you where to look at your cars various systems to head off problems. Come back here and post those code numbers, if you have any, we'll help as best we can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh i have my own Scanner.. "Actron" AutoScanner Plush CP9180.. Sorry

Yes my Check Engine Light does go on, and stay on.. I checked for codes and i got the following:

P1400 - Differential Press Feedback EGR Circuit Low Input
P0442 - EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Small)
P0457 - EVAP Emission Control System Leak Cap Loose/Off

And yes, On some starts i do get a chirping kinda of noise, not sure where it is coming i thought from the pansager, but know the noise has gone away.. It happened every cold start, and if i went on to drive, as accelerated the chirping would go faster and fast like somthing was about to brake, but then slowly die off
 

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1400 - failed DPFE sensor or wiring harness problem from PCM to DPFE.

The EVAP codes 442 / 457 are likely related. First thing to do is look at the gasket / seal on the gas cap for cracks. If you see even small cracks or any other damage, replace the gas cap. The EVAP codes have nothing to do with your rough engine problem.

Dan, I am thinking what you are thinking about the oil light. Even if the syncro shaft isnt making noise, I would pull it and have a look at the condition of the gear and shaft bushings. With 118K miles, it is likely living on borrowed time.
 

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Cake monster
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I wouldn't be running the engine with that oil light lit up. You still have a chance to save it, don't run the engine at all until you replace the syncro, or know why that light is on. If you want to take it to a mechanics, you might want to consider towing it, that might mean the difference between a cheap repair and a bad engine knock.

You don't want to play around with oil lights. You don't always get a second chance with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
syncro?? What is this?

I been driving my car for a week now with the Oil Light, it flickers from time to time, and sometimes stays on, and other times it goes off??

Chritsmas eve is tomorrow and im going to my uncles house, and i wont be able to do anything to my car until monday??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay, now somthing that i thought was minor turned to somthing major.
Let me re explain everything so we both on the same page.

2002 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 OHV Vulcan Engine
118,000 + Miles

I bought it with 116,000 + Miles so far what i have done to the car is the following:
Oil Change/Filter
Air Filter
4 New Tires
New Battery

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before i changed the battery, my Locks where the first to stop working correctly
Next my CD Player, Then in Park my car would lose power, about to shut off..

Got New Battery, and it got fixed...
I lifted up my car, and everything on the bottom is beautiful, no oil leaks... its a Princess what my mechanic called it. Only problem is both ball joints are silently cracked.

I also know my tempature sensor is almost broken, i drive very careful and check always to see if my car over heats, but no problems..

Then one day turning on my car, i dont knw how to explain the noise, but sounds a lot like a belt type of noise coming from the back side of engine, kinda the middle, or passanger side. I stop driving my car for 3 weeks beacuse i was out of town I come back and the noise was still there, louder then ever, but like i said as i drive the noise goes with the speed quickly, but dies off after the engine heats up...

One day the noise just stop, and recently ONLY in park my car has a bad idle.. from my computer test, i idle around 720 RPMS - 645 RPMS...

Randomly my car in PARK feels like its gonna shut off, RPMS drop as low as 200 RPMS and bounce back to 720 RPMS..

The past week my oil light flickers on and off, and somtimes just stays on, and somtimes stays off... I've checked my Dip Stick, and the Color, along with the level of oil is good. Transmission Fuild is good (I ran it both HOT and COLD)

My last Oil Change/filter was about 1,500 miles ago..

I get hesitation while cursing, 20-35 MPH only... I thought it was EGR Valves, but now you guys have me worry?? Whats wrong with my car? It drives good on highway... Im gonna go outside now at 1:00am and re do a test on my car see if any new codes pop up...

Any more answers would be very THANKFUL... Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just Ran anthor test and got the same codes..

I View data, and all sensors are okay..

I look up at autozone and advancedauto for a synchro shaft, my car dont take one, unless i spelled it wrong or looked up the wrong part..
 

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If your car has a 96 and up Vulcan, it has a syncro shaft / cam position sensor assy. DO NOT use the Dorman part. Do a search..... there are hundreds of posts, many with pics, concerning diagnosis and repair of this very well known problem.
 

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Get that CPS checked ASAP, man, and park your car 'till it's fixed or %100 not the problem. It took my car a whole 5 minutes from when the oil light went on 'till I spun a bearing and junked the engine. Other members went a little bit longer, and with less damage, but if that shaft went, your engine will follow. So check it.
 

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Cmp= camshaft position sensor (bolts on top of cam synchronizer shaft which is located in the old distributor hole and drives the oil pump.
 

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Cake monster
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Okay, now somthing that i thought was minor turned to somthing major.
Let me re explain everything so we both on the same page.

2002 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 OHV Vulcan Engine
118,000 + Miles

I bought it with 116,000 + Miles so far what i have done to the car is the following:
Oil Change/Filter
Air Filter
4 New Tires
New Battery

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before i changed the battery, my Locks where the first to stop working correctly
Next my CD Player, Then in Park my car would lose power, about to shut off..

Got New Battery, and it got fixed...
I lifted up my car, and everything on the bottom is beautiful, no oil leaks... its a Princess what my mechanic called it. Only problem is both ball joints are silently cracked.

I also know my tempature sensor is almost broken, i drive very careful and check always to see if my car over heats, but no problems..

Then one day turning on my car, i dont knw how to explain the noise, but sounds a lot like a belt type of noise coming from the back side of engine, kinda the middle, or passanger side. I stop driving my car for 3 weeks beacuse i was out of town I come back and the noise was still there, louder then ever, but like i said as i drive the noise goes with the speed quickly, but dies off after the engine heats up...

One day the noise just stop, and recently ONLY in park my car has a bad idle.. from my computer test, i idle around 720 RPMS - 645 RPMS...

Randomly my car in PARK feels like its gonna shut off, RPMS drop as low as 200 RPMS and bounce back to 720 RPMS..

The past week my oil light flickers on and off, and somtimes just stays on, and somtimes stays off... I've checked my Dip Stick, and the Color, along with the level of oil is good. Transmission Fuild is good (I ran it both HOT and COLD)

My last Oil Change/filter was about 1,500 miles ago..

I get hesitation while cursing, 20-35 MPH only... I thought it was EGR Valves, but now you guys have me worry?? Whats wrong with my car? It drives good on highway... Im gonna go outside now at 1:00am and re do a test on my car see if any new codes pop up...

Any more answers would be very THANKFUL... Thanks
Hopefully it's the camshaft syncro. Does it just do it at idle or while driving at speed? (the oil light)
 

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Stop driving it/starting it until you deal with the syncro issue, it's causing low oil pressure! It drives the oil pump!
 
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