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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a 2001 sable ls prem wagon with the Duratec. It has a small oil leak at the pan gasket on the passenger side. Its not bad, but drips on the exhaust and smells. I was thinking of tightening up the bolts in that area a little to see if it seals it up. Any harm in giving this a try? I figured it might help and could save the time and hassle of removing the exhaust to replace the gasket. Any thoughts???

Also getting the flashing oil light at idle occasionally. Still reading through threads on here about that and trying to figure that out.
 

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best way to do it is just replace the gasket. Tightening wouldn't do any good, as tightening the bolts any tighter could result in warping the oil pan, or you could over tighten the bolts and it would be hard to try to remove them the next time you had to remove the oil pan.
 

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What weight oil are you using now? I would move to a higher weight oil. 5w-30 at the minimum but up to 10w-30 if you want. I would only to 10w-40 if you really had flashing oil light issues.

Go to 5w-30 High Milage non-synthetic oil and that should hopefully slow down or stop the leak if you are currently on 5w-20. It worked for me lol! 5w-30 should help the flashing oil light too. 10w-30 may help even more if you don't live in a super cold climate.
 

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Yes, am using the recommended 5w-20. I do live in a warm area. Summers are in the low 100's, the coldest it ever gets here is 30. Maybe I will try a 5W30 on the next change and see if that helps. I will probably just end up taking off the exhaust and replacing the gasket.

Thanks for the reply's, any other thought or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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I would go 5w-30 anyways to hopefully stop the flickering oil light. If it still flickers go 10w-30. Wouldn't go above that though. In my opinion 5w-30 should be the one for these cars anyways, not the 5w-20. Ford changed it in like 2003 to 5w-20 because of some BS EPA thing... Make sure you use a high milage oil as well.
 

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best way to do it is just replace the gasket. Tightening wouldn't do any good, as tightening the bolts any tighter could result in warping the oil pan, or you could over tighten the bolts and it would be hard to try to remove them the next time you had to remove the oil pan.
You aren't going to warp the pan snugging the bolts up, sorry, that pan is pretty resilient even as aluminum.

It's free and worth trying snugging the bolts up. Has worked for a few people on here.
 

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It's free and worth trying snugging the bolts up. Has worked for a few people on here.
I would actually go around and just loosen all the bolts then go around and tighten them all equally. If you loosen all of them first you'll get a more consistent torque pattern. But just tightening them is okay too.
 

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You aren't going to warp the pan snugging the bolts up, sorry, that pan is pretty resilient even as aluminum.

It's free and worth trying snugging the bolts up. Has worked for a few people on here.


yeah, I was thinking of the Vulcan and the thinner metal pan... d'oh!
 

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similar problem with my 2000 Taurus Vulcan?

You aren't going to warp the pan snugging the bolts up, sorry, that pan is pretty resilient even as aluminum.

It's free and worth trying snugging the bolts up. Has worked for a few people on here.

Bull Geek and everyone:

Sorry for invading this thread.

It seems my 2000 Taurus SE Vulcan has the similar kind of leak on the passenger side. She got 68K on her. I am not exactly sure though. checked engine oil, transmission and brake oil, no noticeable level change to me (I may not have checked carefully).

It smells bad when oil drips on the exhaust pipe, leaving an oil poodle under her. Black smoke really alarmed my wife. She sits in the car for 15 minutes, and claims carbon monoxide give her headache.

What is wrong with her, I mean my car, oil pan gasket?

I just changed PCV elbow (big hole inside the bend), then PCV. Had hoped that the PCV is the cause of the problem after new elbow. Still leaks after new PCV put in.

How should I tackle this? is this bad? How much will her set me back sending her to a garage? (BTW, I am not too handy with car. changed DPFE, starter, PCV, serpentine belt, coolant, and coolant tank by myself, thanks to excellent info from TCCA community. Scared of doing anything on engine)

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks much,

Gtau
 

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Pan gasket r&r runs ~$200-300. Almost all labor. Drop y-pipe, gasket (~$30), oil/filter and the infamous misc. shop supplies, lol.
 

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passenger side oil leak

Pan gasket r&r runs ~$200-300. Almost all labor. Drop y-pipe, gasket (~$30), oil/filter and the infamous misc. shop supplies, lol.
Hi Sheila,

Thanks for the info. It is quite reassuring for me.

Will drop it off at a shop, and let my mechanic to worry about this one.:D I am still worrying about her though. Have to go out have a little jogging after work or something.:(

Gtau
 
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