[rjacket]

Also the temperature also plays a big part when charging batteries. You need a higher voltage up to 15v when its below freezing and less than 14.5 when room temperature.
View attachment 222299

Is that Noco's chart for flooded lead acid?

 

[rjacket]

Multi-Stage Smart Charging Technology
The NOCO GEN series smart charger uses an 8-stage charging cycle to quickly and efficiently charge your battery. This ensures that the battery safely reaches maximum capacity without being overcharged.

In the first step of the charging process, the charger will analyze the battery's condition and state of charge. The charger then uses this data to diagnose the battery's health and ensure it can be safely charged. If the battery is deeply discharged or sulfated, the charger will automatically enter the recovery stage to repair the battery by pulsing small amounts of current.

Once the unit has determined that the battery's condition is stable, it will initialize the charging process by providing a constant, gentle charge. The charger gradually increases the charge during the bulk stage and quickly charges the battery to 80-percent capacity.

As the battery nears full charge, the charger enters the absorption stage and delivers small amounts of current to limit battery gassing and safely bring the battery to 90-percent capacity. The charger will then begin optimization of the battery, bringing it to full capacity and optimizing it for increased run time and performance.

The final step of the charging process, maintenance, monitors the battery for drops in power and supplies the correct current to keep it fully charged. If a drop in voltage is detected, the charger will begin the optimization cycle to keep the battery fully charged.

When I researched, I was looking to see if anyone had tested the actual charging voltages and amps and was seeing lots of discrepancies in non Chinese brands.

Here is some more recent testing. You can see that Noco chargers are doing strange things:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/battery-charger-testing-results.336207/

 

[Steve83]

You act as if there is no problem with Ford and it's all the customers fault or error.

I've been working on vehicles for a while, and IME, it's far more-often the loose nut behind the wheel than the manufacturer's fault. And that even applies to the worst brands, like Land Rover & Jaguar. So I asked you some specific questions to elicit details you omitted earlier - I didn't blame you for the battery failure, but it IS reasonable to ask.

 

[chartmaker]

I've been working on vehicles for a while, and IME, it's far more-often the loose nut behind the wheel than the manufacturer's fault. And that even applies to the worst brands, like Land Rover & Jaguar. So I asked you some specific questions to elicit details you omitted earlier - I didn't blame you for the battery failure, but it IS reasonable to ask.

Pic. This from '03 Sable ~100K miles. I bought it used at 99K and one working bulb in the cluster, and none in the console. This car charging over 15.0V and times up to 15.5V. I replaced the Alt and no more overcharging. This would take a toll on the battery. The PCM adjusts the volts but: if the Alt does not listen to the PCM, it does what it wants. I am a fan of plug in power port V meter. Cheap. Once fully warmed up and fully charged battery, should be 13.8V. 14.8 OK when just starting on a trip but should taper off. This goes for cars before the system of using Hall Effect measure of battery charge/discharge and adjusts charging based on history. Pic of my Buick using this system, this on ~600 mile run and in daytime driving. Once the HL are turned, it returns to 13.8V.
The enemy of batteries is Heat, Vibration, Over/under charging. Placing the battery up front in the engine bay, place for heat and vibration. Bad grounds, cables and such contribute.
PIc of Buick battery 7 years old. The fumes are vented through a hose below the car. Most batteries vent right beside the posts/cables. The Buick cables and post clamps are old school lead, heavy.
This my first GM vehicle and likely my last. Too old to buy another family vehicle. Credit where credit is due.
-chart-

 

[snosaint]

I go back many years but, first car I had with Alt. was '06 Valiant and it was 35A which was a big deal. Distributor ignition used about 4A and that was about the only load when driving. Lights were 2 in the front, 2 in the back. So the battery did not draw much and did not need much to charge it. But I remember the batteries did not last and early fail were common. Today much heavier load on the system, 130A charging common, climate blower much larger, radiator fans, electronic fuel pump, and electronic controls add up. Batteries are not much if any larger.
-chart-

" '06 Valiant"? 1906?

 

[james27613]

I normally buy DieHard, no Gold available at Advance so I got a Duralast 3 yr from Autozone for $20 less then what Adavance would have cost.

I get there and the young kid brings out the battery, it was dirty, the posts looked like they were hooked up and I noticed the date code on the top of the battery was H1 (2021 Aug) (Johnson Controls now known as Clarios) also makes DieHards.
The kid tells me that is not the date code, it is on a label. No label on this Old Tired Battery.
Kid thinks I'm stupid. I ask him to get another one, website shows you have two. He says no it is wrong.
I show him my old diehard and the date code is exactly in the same place as his POS Duralast.
I ask him do they have the batteries on a charger, he says they don't sit long.
OK, they why are you selling me a battery from 2021 on 12-31-23? He said it came from another store. I told him I'm not paying top dollar for core battery.

I walked out and went to another store 20 miles away and got a fresh battery, three women behind the counter and theyt all knew their stuff, very busy store.

Burns me up that these idiots would have installed this POS battery into your daughters car.
When you try to return it they will say NO WAY, your battery is from 2021 and your receipt is from 2022.

I left email for Autozone and got a canned reply and no further contact from their managament team.

 

[rjacket]

" '06 Valiant"? 1906?

1960

 

[chartmaker]

" '06 Valiant"? 1906?

Maybe 1860! Got my left and right confused. One reason I use 2023 and not '23 on my checks. Makes me think.
To be correct it was 1960 Valliant, first year of that car, most basic car. Got it used for $50. Had to put a timing chain in it but so simple lots of room. Only thing on the belt: water pump/fan, and Alt.
Only option, AM radio, single speaker. 3 speed on the floor. I got some bare copper wire and ran it around to all the fenders so the lights would work. I used it on the construction site as I was working on a "green field" factory construction. When that project was finished, I went to work 35 miles away and use the Valliant to get to work. After I moved to that site, I sold it in a garage sale. I later bought a '1960 Falcon. Valliant was better car. Better engine.
-chart-

 

[Lisfin]

I've been working on vehicles for a while, and IME, it's far more-often the loose nut behind the wheel than the manufacturer's fault. And that even applies to the worst brands, like Land Rover & Jaguar. So I asked you some specific questions to elicit details you omitted earlier - I didn't blame you for the battery failure, but it IS reasonable to ask.


You're going to hold your guess against Ford parts??? And you place NO blame on the warehouse for NOT following Ford's (or likely, its distributor's) published guidelines to monitor & refresh its inventory age? Or on the retailer for handing it to you? Or on yourSELF for not paying attention when it really mattered - AT the store?

You make it sound as if it was my fault or the warehouse or anything but Ford. Sure I should of inspected it better, however this is part of my point. I am paying for a service and it's not there anymore. I should not have to inspect new parts for manufacture defects, yes its a good idea, however it should not be mandatory, it should not make it to the customer if they were inspecting the parts like they use to. This is why I have said the quality seems to have gone done hill in the last few years.

It has been happening more and more often with Ford and it starts to get frustrating.

 

[sheila]

Maybe 1860! Got my left and right confused. One reason I use 2023 and not '23 on my checks. Makes me think.
To be correct it was 1960 Valliant, first year of that car, most basic car. Got it used for $50. Had to put a timing chain in it but so simple lots of room. Only thing on the belt: water pump/fan, and Alt.
Only option, AM radio, single speaker. 3 speed on the floor. I got some bare copper wire and ran it around to all the fenders so the lights would work. I used it on the construction site as I was working on a "green field" factory construction. When that project was finished, I went to work 35 miles away and use the Valliant to get to work. After I moved to that site, I sold it in a garage sale. I later bought a '1960 Falcon. Valliant was better car. Better engine.
-chart-

^ Slant 6?

 

[cwj]

My Motorcraft battery of less than 2 years just crapped the bucket and would not hold a charge. I babied this one, always kept it on a trickle charger and never let it run down. Oh well, still under warranty so I brought it back and they ordered me a new replacement from the warehouse. Few days later picked up the battery and asked them to test it, it needed to be charged before they could test it, ok will bring it home and charge it.

Got home and noticed it had a 10/18 sticker on it...what the hell, 4 year and 3 month old battery I just purchased. I should of noticed this at store but was in a hurry. Sigh, so as I look over the battery the sides are slightly bulged out, as in this battery must of froze at some point...checked its voltage and it was 11.3v, which means it was sitting completely depleted and most likely getting permanent damage, this battery was very neglected it seems.

Brought it back to the store and they told me "Ya we were wondering if you were going to bring it back, we noticed the sides were kinda bulged". Not having good luck with Ford/Motorcraft parts recently and getting annoyed. Exchanged it for a SuperStart battery and hoping it will last longer than 2 years while being babied.

Moral of the story, CHECK YOUR BATTERY DATE AND FOR ANY DAMAGES OR BULGES BEFORE PURCHASE, ALSO ASK THEM TO TEST THE NEW BATTERY!

I like Motorcraft parts....but never have had any luck with them..lasting long.....infact i go to Walmart and buy there $59 was even cheaper battery and with 7 vechicles in own....they all lasted over 5 years easly....bascially all you are paying for is warranty for the extra cost....and with prorating...how many has ever had a good experiece with that...in my 2002 and 2005 Taurus....i just put a group 24 cheap walmart battery it now 4 year old in them...so far so good.

 

[chartmaker]

^ Slant 6?

The slant 6 has been a sort of cult engine. They used large bearing journals, wide bearings and good oiling system. The slant allowed them to use large radius intake runners to keep the fuel/air from separation to a minimum.
On the other hand the Falcon engine was bad for intake flow. Intake and head cast in one part. This made for very tight 90 degree bends on the end cylinders and short runs to the center. This made for fuel rich center and fuel starved end cylinders. My last one 1980 Zephyr. Had 200 CI same type engine. It was lazy, ran hot, and vapor locked in hot weather. Went from that to Essex in '04, '05, '06 LTD/Marq. Good combo for it's day.
-chart-

 

[Steve83]

...my point. I am paying for a service...

Look on your receipt, and tell us how much you paid for "service", because your original post makes it sound like you were in the PARTS department buying only a PART.

 

[Lisfin]

Look on your receipt, and tell us how much you paid for "service", because your original post makes it sound like you were in the PARTS department buying only a PART.

It's built into the markup on the part... There is a reason they are called stealerships. By definition going into the store and having them order a battery or part is a service. Returning a part because it's defective and getting a replacement is a service.

Serv·ice:
Verb:
1. The action of helping or doing work for someone.
2. Assistance or advice given to customers during and after the sale of goods.
Noun:
1. To perform any of the business functions auxiliary to production or distribution

Honestly not sure why you are so argumentative in all your replies. If you really want to argue over words, fine you win. I am not paying for a service I was wrong...Let me restate that for you...I am paying for a name brand that I have come to expect a certain level of quality from and its not there anymore. There you happy? You got me, good job, you win the internet.