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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

After finishing flushing the coolant in my Taurus(2000 OHV 155K mileage) and replacing the alternator, I spot the heater hose assembly with some rust but there is no leakage or wet spot yet.

Should I wait until it shows leakage and then replace it or I have to replace it now?
I only put 1500 miles on the car yearly and really don't want to tackle any car repair again unless it is absolutely necessary.

The part shown in Rockauto is around $40, but I am not sure whether this job requires lots of work.

Thank you

GATES HHA112 Heater Hose Assembly $39.79
 

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It is a lot of work. First because of the clamps used on the hoses. Without those special pliers for them, they are very difficult to take off. Second is that the assembly, even if you disconnected it, is very difficult (if not impossible) to take out (or a new one put in) without separating its two halves. For the new one that is no problem: you simply disconnect them at the bracket that holds them together. But the old one is a different story. Have your hacksaw ready.

So how did the assembly get in there in the first place? My theory is that is was put in at the assembly line before the engine was put in.

Either way, if you install the new assembly, do not use the clamps that come with it, but replace them with new adjustable ones right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is a lot of work. First because of the clamps used on the hoses. Without those special pliers for them, they are very difficult to take off. Second is that the assembly, even if you disconnected it, is very difficult (if not impossible) to take out (or a new one put in) without separating its two halves. For the new one that is no problem: you simply disconnect them at the bracket that holds them together. But the old one is a different story. Have your hacksaw ready.

So how did the assembly get in there in the first place? My theory is that is was put in at the assembly line before the engine was put in.

Either way, if you install the new assembly, do not use the clamps that come with it, but replace them with new adjustable ones right away.
If this hose suddenly bursts, will the car lose all coolant?

Thank you
 

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If this hose suddenly bursts, will the car lose all coolant?

Thank you
If a radiator hose bursts, it will lose most of the coolant in a couple of minutes. Smaller hoses are not as risky for a catastrophic failure. To test hoses, grasp an end with a thumb and index finger just inside of it's clamping point and squeeze. If you feel a "crunchiness" this indicates the hose has lost it's flexibility and it's time to replace. Driving only 1500 miles a year sounds pretty low risk to me. I would replace both radiator hoses and monitor for leaks on a regular basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If a radiator hose bursts, it will lose most of the coolant in a couple of minutes. Smaller hoses are not as risky for a catastrophic failure. To test hoses, grasp an end with a thumb and index finger just inside of it's clamping point and squeeze. If you feel a "crunchiness" this indicates the hose has lost it's flexibility and it's time to replace. Driving only 1500 miles a year sounds pretty low risk to me. I would replace both radiator hoses and monitor for leaks on a regular basis.
I think those hoses from the heater hose assembly are mostly metal ones.

abc.PNG
 

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Fwiw, there are threads/write-ups on here where people replaced with all rubber heater hose, barbs, couplers, unions, clamps and cable/zip ties.
 

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You will not bust a hose on the manifold most likely you will get pin hole leaks around the weld areas. Out of three Taurus I had to replace manifold, others made it past the 20kk mark easily.
 

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This is what mine (also 2000 OHV) looked like years ago:
p4260528.jpg p4260566.jpg
With even the cylinder head removed (it turned out to be cracked) I should have replaced the assembly right there and then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You will not bust a hose on the manifold most likely you will get pin hole leaks around the weld areas. Out of three Taurus I had to replace manifold, others made it past the 20kk mark easily.

I didn't see the instruction requires to drain the coolant and he only refilled the lost coolant in the end.

Question> When you replaced this heater hose assembly, did you first drain the coolant?

Thank you
 

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Yes you have to drain some of the coolant. A gallon or two should be enough. Like people have posted the clamps are a pain to remove and I bought the remote clamp pliers after I did the replacement for that reason. I found it easier to cut the hose and remove the manifold and then remove the clamps since the manifold gets in your way. Some people cut the clamps with a dremel tool and mini wafer wheel. Be careful removing the hoses from the heater core nipples so you don't crack them. I used a razor blade to slice the hose so I could remove them but don't cut through them and score the nipples.
 

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Question> When you replaced this heater hose assembly, did you first drain the coolant?
I assume you are not too worried about the price of the coolant but more about the draining itself. On my 2000 OHV I changed the original radiator plug with a new one.
Here they are side-by-side
Radiator-Plug.jpg
The original is on the right. I remember it had to be taken out with a Torx 50 and worried that in the long run this would lead to trouble.
 

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I have never used the petcock to drain the fluid on any of my five Taurus in 25+ years of owning them. For this job I usually remove the large hose from the degas bottle after I syphon the coolant out. I then shove a syphon tube down that hose to syphon out the amount I need removed.
 

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I had to replace the heater hose assembly 2 weeks ago in my 2002 OHV. The one that was installed before was a Dorman (done by a mechanic 57,000 miles, 3 years ago). At that time it was leaking on one of the weld areas (same as Automender mentioned).
Three weeks ago I had to take the heater out ( a Motorcraft just installed 6 months ago) due to a leak. After I did it and tested the connections found out the 90 deg rubber elbow that connects to one of the heater outputs was leaking. So I got a Motorcraft heater hose assembly KT97 ( $ 20 more expensive than the Gates HHA112). Installed everything and worked fine.
You guys are right, the clamps are little hard to untie, but try to get the proper pliers and it will be not that difficult. I made it easier disconnecting the computer harness , the 2 connectors on top of the harness (O2 and purge valve), some of the vacuum plumbing and made some room. It came out without any problem.
Not the best design from Ford, but I don't see that other type of clamps will make it much easier.
But I wouldn't drive with that assembly leaking. Had in this car an antifreeze leak on the highway, ended up on a head gasket replacement. Wondering :) why Ford didn't install a safety thermostat so when the antiffreeze gets a particular high temperature the engine will shut down on its own. Odometer indicates 261,125 , will see.
Hope you can fix yours and enjoy it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@tornado,

I just realized that the Motorcraft part is also available on Rockauto.

Question> Is this the right part number? I am not sure what "Top tube not serviced" means here?

MOTORCRAFT KT80 {#YF1Z18B402BA} Info
Tube to bottom of core. Top tube not serviced

It looks like the part looks different.

Motorcraft KT80
218346


vs

gates HHA112
218347


Thank you
 

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The top tube is most likely the "bypass tube" in the Gates picture. I think that bypass is to make sure coolant flows through the thinner tube, even if the heater core is clogged. But it also misses the hose to left in the Gates picture. So the Motorcraft part is not the original part unless your 2000 OHV is different from mine (see the picture I posted before).

BTW, that left hose is also the reason the assembly is so difficult to put in, because you almost cannot make that turn with the hose. But you are free to detach the two halves at the bracket. I sawed off the whole bracket, but also the bracket consists of two parts that are just clamped together so it might be possible to detach them, install the assembly and clamp them together again.
 

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In my car, the 2002 SE 3.0 OHV Sedan 4-door, the one that fits is the Gates HHA112 or the Motorcraft KT-97 YF1Z-18B402-AA. KT-80 seems to be for another model. The last one is the one I installed. Honestly I didn't have to do anything special with the left hose, just careful enough to avoid any harness close by.
Good luck :)
 

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As someone that has lived through it, I want to add my 2 cents!

First, a simple answer to your question- YES—it is a pain in butt to change out. BUT, there is a work-around (which is what I did)-

Now- you said you noticed ‘rust’ on the metal tubing of the by-pass assembly, and should you replace it. I would say NO-- Do NOT replace it now because if the rusted parts do finally leak, you will see light leaking long before it becomes a problem that empties your fluid. Some may make theargument that rust is flowing inside your system and could cause a clog to your heater core, which is a valid point.

Now, as for replacing it. The rubber parts are going to be (most likely) just fine. You can cut/splice a replacement section without removing the old piece. I left the old piece in and zip tied the new 5/8 hose to it. If you cut at he points where the rubber hose meets the metal, you won’t even have to deal with the horrible hose clamps. I would suggest investing in the hose clamp tool, though (about 15 bucks)-

I had to deal with mine because I changed out my heater core, and in doing so, created a leak in the metal parts of the factory by-pass, so I did the homemade by-pass with my own 5/8 heater hose.

I have a picture of the slicing...I will add it asap.
 
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