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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
it's a 3.2 ATX SHO with 156000 miles.


I'll just be driving.. maybe I'll go around a corner, and just as I put my foot on the pedal, ""hey where'd all the power go!? Oh, it stalled, again"" it'll do that a few times, sometimes when I'm trying to make a left turn in heavy, fast moving Los Angeles traffic it'll stall.. Today it actually stalled as I turned, so I was actually opposing traffic in a car that wasn't on.. But as I'm now a master at slipping it into neutral, restarting it, then putting it back in drive, I generously pressed on the gas and smoked my way out of the opposing traffic.

I've talked to a few mechanics, and without them actually going over the car they think it's either the fuel filter, fuel regulator, or fuel pump.. They think it's just not getting enough fuel.. that would explain why there's more power on the midrange then the high end.. wouldn't it?.. Has this happened to anyone?
 

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Originally posted by SHO Continental@Apr 26 2004, 07:56 PM
it's a 3.2 ATX SHO with 156000 miles.


I'll just be driving.. maybe I'll go around a corner, and just as I put my foot on the pedal, ""hey where'd all the power go!? Oh, it stalled, again"" it'll do that a few times, sometimes when I'm trying to make a left turn in heavy, fast moving Los Angeles traffic it'll stall.. Today it actually stalled as I turned, so I was actually opposing traffic in a car that wasn't on.. But as I'm now a master at slipping it into neutral, restarting it, then putting it back in drive, I generously pressed on the gas and smoked my way out of the opposing traffic.

I've talked to a few mechanics, and without them actually going over the car they think it's either the fuel filter, fuel regulator, or fuel pump.. They think it's just not getting enough fuel.. that would explain why there's more power on the midrange then the high end.. wouldn't it?.. Has this happened to anyone?
Hmmmmm, I would have said its something to do with the clutch, but you drive an ATX. It could be a multitude of things. I would change the fuel filter first, thats the easiest and cheapest. Next I would check the fuel lines under the hood, as well as the injectors and such.

-DC
 

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My very first thought is the crank position sensor. When they start going bad, the start and can be restarted quickly, then the "off" time increases.

Have you noticed what the tach does when it dies? If the tach doesn't move on an unsucessful start attempt, that's aclue.....but it sounds like yours starts quickly.

Doesn't sound like fuel to me, I go with electrical.

Did you see if any codes were stored in the EEC box?

Make sure that the battery clamps are clean & tight. Yeah, obvious, but these cars don't run off the alternator like the casrs of years ago, they need a good battery connection to function.

Also, have you noticed if power stayed on in the dash? With a bad connection somewhere, you may also be losing power momentarily.

If nothing comes up, the folks on SHOtimes and Tech SHO have been through a lot of stuff like this and can have some ideas.

Good Luck!! I "hate" electrical problems!!
 

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Originally posted by Ron Porter@Apr 26 2004, 08:27 PM
Make sure that the battery clamps are clean & tight. Yeah, obvious, but these cars don't run off the alternator like the casrs of years ago, they need a good battery connection to function.
Too bad I didn't see this earlier, you beat me to it. When I first got my SHO, it had a big problem stalling, in my case, both the clutch and the battery cables had something to do with it. Get those replaced, and check all the ignition connections while you're at it. That should fix the problem.
 

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Originally posted by 97GreenStreak3.0+Apr 27 2004, 03:03 PM-->QUOTE (97GreenStreak3.0 @ Apr 27 2004, 03:03 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-Ron Porter
@Apr 26 2004, 08:27 PM
Make sure that the battery clamps are clean & tight. Yeah, obvious, but these cars don't run off the alternator like the casrs of years ago, they need a good battery connection to function.
Too bad I didn't see this earlier, you beat me to it. When I first got my SHO, it had a big problem stalling, in my case, both the clutch and the battery cables had something to do with it. Get those replaced, and check all the ignition connections while you're at it. That should fix the problem. [/b]
Clutch cable?? How did that affect a stalling issue?

Anyway, on these older SHOs, folks have found that one thing for eliminating erratic running & stalling issues is to clean and reconnect every connection that you can find. Folks also reapply dielectric grease to the connections (get a big tube....it's the preferred stuff for caliper slider pins, also).
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My battery connections are fine, and I have an ATX so there's no clutch stuff to worry about. Tach goes down to zero when it stalls and moves slightly if it takes a while to start it. My steering is also doing well, as I just installed a new P/S pump and Rack. I'll go with the fuel filter for now, see how that goes.
 

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So, with your car sitting still idling, when you turn the steering wheel a little bit the engine should rev up a little bit. If it doesn't then this could be your problem.
 

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Originally posted by Intelliforce@Apr 28 2004, 07:24 PM
So, with your car sitting still idling, when you turn the steering wheel a little bit the engine should rev up a little bit.  If it doesn't then this could be your problem.
????

I must say that I've never heard of this one. What would cause the idle to increase? I wasn't aware of an EEC setting to do that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The power steering switch. On some cars, it increases the idle slightly to overcome the power loss of using the power steering. I don't think SHO's have this though, especially the Gen 2 with VAPS.

My guess is like Ron's, either the crank sensor, or the battery cables. On my first SHO, it took a while, but I found the positive cable had chafed, and basically shorted itself out every now and then. On my current SHO, the same exact thing you're explaining happened, and it turned out to be the battery cable ends. Somone's replaced them with the el cheapo clamp on wire type, and they loosened up enough so that turning would cause them to lose contact. I replaced them with some better clamps, and everything's been fine since.
 

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I would first pull the code from the EEC-IV. You can purchase a code reader (I paid $20 for mine), have AutoZone pull the codes for you. Also there is a procedure at the SHOTIME FAQ using paper clips. If there are any codes store you can start to isolate the stalling problem. Your car will have the three digit codes.
The most common culprit is the CPS. When the CPS fails you don't always get a code.

Bob

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.ph...&thold=0&sid=83
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by jedhead@Apr 29 2004, 01:10 AM
I would first pull the code from the EEC-IV.
I have a code reader. I'll pull the codes tommorow during the daylight. I already had a neighbor on me about blasting my radio at 11 PM.
 

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A failed CPS will not thow a code. You may end up with other codes for the engine stalling, etc, but there is no code for the CPS in particular.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My plans got a little messed up today.. and it turns out the code reader is at a friends house, I'll see if I can get the codes tommorow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wasn't able to get the codes today.. I'll definitely get them tommorow.. But I did notice one thing: With the car stopped, if you turn the wheel then the RPM goes down what looks like a few hundred RPM.. Is it supposed to do that? Or could this maybe be helping the stalling a bit?
 
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