[mrclean]

I finally got my SHO running, replaced the Subframe bolts and such, and the cam sensor. So the car runs and idles pretty nice. The problem is, is that when I was going home, I pushed on the accelerator pretty hard to see how much power it had. Well...as I was going up the hill, the car started picking up pretty fast, then suddenly when it hit 5k rpm's, it seemed to suddenly not want to go much faster. I also have a check engine light that goes on sometimes, but then it'll shut off for awhile, like 15 mins, then come back on again. I don't have a car scanner, so I can't do it myself. My only problem is with the SES light, is that I don't believe I have a Autozone or Advance auto near the White plains area, and I don't want to take it to ford, because they'll charge me.... So, have any ideas as to why it suddenly seems to bog down at like 5k?

 

[tmonster]

fuel filter, old fuel, air filter, spark plugs and wires....i'd start there. i had a bad plug wire on my duratec and i wouldnt notice the power loss until around 4k, i also had the same problem when my imrc box went.....dont think the yamaha has one tho..... :huh:

 

[mooby]

ok for the maf cleaning i just did it too but there is one more thing good for everybody a ford or a sable car is really made around your ground on your car so this is a tried and tested car ive tried and teste the difference on about 9 ford and sable car from a taurus to and escort

time
about 1 hour + depend of the condition of the wiring here in canada it bad with the winter

tool
a couple of real small flat screwdriver
a battery cleaner cuz it gonna eat the rust and lime and calcium
sand paper a real ruff one so youre gonna be faster to remove the rust
and some electronic cleaner or contact cleaner
and the last one
ags sil-glyde spark plug protector or any die electric paste or compound this is to give the best groud possible
and a couple of really big wire

1- check all your electronic plug use any cleaner and clean all the connector the male and female find anyway possible the one on tha maf and the tps and all of them trust me you will like this when they are clean and dry you take the small flat screwdriver and add a real small amount the die electric paste even the alternator but be carefull unplug batterie and even the batterie connector clean and add the paste

2 check all the ground around the car you have normally 3 near the battery one + pole for the distribution block 1 on the left near the reservoir for the coolant and the best one that for you will really change something is the engine ground
if your ground is badly damaged or all rusted up change it take like 6 same lenght wire of gauge 4 and twist them all up and solder the end with the connector and your original ground the new one must be of equal or bigger and trust me bigger is better and on both end everything must be real clean on the wire the connector and the place where it goe must be all clean and you add paste on all 3 and you re
screw this ground and dont forget to have the clean batterie pole and connector and add the paste

ps for any ground you really clean the connector the screw and the wall where the ground screw itself and you apply the paste on all 3


after this is done it telling you your car is gonna be really really sensible trust me for the time and the money this is one of the best thing to do cuz because of this this is gonna give you a better spark and ive tested it try in the dark before with a spark tester and then redo the test you will see a double size spark


have fun just finish mine and wow

 

[mrclean]

Well...cleaning the MAF helped a little bit, I got some more power back at higher rpms but I also have a problem with low end RPM's. Until I reach about 3500 RPM the car has very little power, but then once I hit that mark all of a sudden the power of the car like quadruples and it pulls me back, but before that, it feels as if there is almost no power. So, I'm not quite sure what it is....I'll try some fuel injector cleaner in there, but still, I'm not sure if the motor just doesn't have power unless reved high ot what. Sometimes at idle, it also drops to like 600, then back up to 1200, then stops when I rev it a little...so I'm just curious as to what could cause this...

 

[Tman]

sho have a dual runner intake which under 3800 rpms uses just 6 runners for air take then at 3800 rpms the secondaries open up and then all 12 runners are used.

 

[mrclean]

Hmmm...that might explain the sudden power increase, this is why I'm glad to be in the TCCA lots of people know a lot about these cars, thanks for the help.