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I've seen a lot of threads on belt slap with no resolution. So I figured I'd post something I faced today, and how I fixed it.

Well I figured out how to replace the tensioner pulley and bypass the tensioner for now. It was causing a chirp and vibration at idle that became noticeable after a transmission replacement. That will be the subject of a video in the next few days. It's easier than you think if you got the right $20 tool. Now the busted torx bit inside the tensioner bolt is another story.

That's when in my cars classic fashion in finding new improved ways to frustrate me and the poor souls who work on it, it decided to throw the belt :lol2:. The reason was the belt had a small wear pattern on it that I couldn't quite see on the back anytime I inspected it. After kicking myself and on inspection of the old belt I cold see exactly where it slid. So when it hit the new pulleys it just flipped right off. So I remove the belt, inspect everything and clear it. I go get my new Dayco belt. And it makes a slapping sound :angry:. An hour later after a long mental break, I track it to the idler alternator area. I shut the car off loosen the belt, recheck the pulleys and looking down right in front of me I find a large bump on the belt. I looked at the belt and didn't see anything, but dust had make it visible. :lol2: 40 minutes later- New Duralast belt, no chirp, no squeak, no slap. According to the manual slap means lack of tension, something's touching the belt, or the belt has a defect.
 

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Glad you found it- that defect, if not noticed, could have resulted in a long bout of 'part throwing' and frustration.
 

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I've seen a lot of threads on belt slap with no resolution. So I figured I'd post something I faced today, and how I fixed it.

Well I figured out how to replace the tensioner pulley and bypass the tensioner for now. It was causing a chirp and vibration at idle that became noticeable after a transmission replacement. That will be the subject of a video in the next few days. It's easier than you think if you got the right $20 tool. Now the busted torx bit inside the tensioner bolt is another story.

That's when in my cars classic fashion in finding new improved ways to frustrate me and the poor souls who work on it, it decided to throw the belt :lol2:. The reason was the belt had a small wear pattern on it that I couldn't quite see on the back anytime I inspected it. After kicking myself and on inspection of the old belt I cold see exactly where it slid. So when it hit the new pulleys it just flipped right off. So I remove the belt, inspect everything and clear it. I go get my new Dayco belt. And it makes a slapping sound :angry:. An hour later after a long mental break, I track it to the idler alternator area. I shut the car off loosen the belt, recheck the pulleys and looking down right in front of me I find a large bump on the belt. I looked at the belt and didn't see anything, but dust had make it visible. :lol2: 40 minutes later- New Duralast belt, no chirp, no squeak, no slap. According to the manual slap means lack of tension, something's touching the belt, or the belt has a defect.
For me, only using Goodyear Gatorback. See pic, house brand of one major parts house, I do not remember which. One year on '01 DOHC. Easy application since it is only 5 pulleys. I just put Gatorback on my Lin Cont which is much more harsh use. 7 pulleys, 2 reverses, turns the alt 50% faster and has larger A/C. My previous Lin cont did not make it out of warrenty before the belt caused PS headaches for Lin Dealer. Slipping. Service tec told me, never use anything besides Gatorback, much better than Ford OEM.

Cont belt is about inch longer than the DOHC, ~$18 at Rockauto.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
For me, only using Goodyear Gatorback. See pic, house brand of one major parts house, I do not remember which. One year on '01 DOHC. Easy application since it is only 5 pulleys. I just put Gatorback on my Lin Cont which is much more harsh use. 7 pulleys, 2 reverses, turns the alt 50% faster and has larger A/C. My previous Lin cont did not make it out of warrenty before the belt caused PS headaches for Lin Dealer. Slipping. Service tec told me, never use anything besides Gatorback, much better than Ford OEM.

Cont belt is about inch longer than the DOHC, ~$18 at Rockauto.

-chart-
I'm planning a rockauto order and a gatorback is the tippy top of the list. It's ghostly quiet now. I have to feel the car to see if it's running. The main reason I went with the Duralast is it was the only other option than have no car. It's funny, we have a Goodyear plant down the road, their based in my state. Yet the parts stores here don't carry it :lol2:

I would love to know exactly why I can't buy what I used to locally. I remember as a kid getting Bosch brake parts. Now it's Duralast, BestBrake or whatever it is Advance sells. The NAPA here only deals in diesel.:mellow: Sparkplug wires are nauseating to think about as well.

I've learned the best parts are found at the dealership, rockauto, or similar stores. For example the only decent bulbs I can buy here are silverstar Ultras. I went online and got some Philips Xtreme Vision and they make the silverstars seem lacking. A light fog or after some rain used to mean not seeing everything- especially deer. Now I see it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Chart I got my Rockauto order and that belt, its a piece of artwork. I noticed my power steering pump is spraying again so it's going on after I get the rack replaced. That way I don't mess up something nice. Also noticed my B1318 code has went away for a week after doing this repair. And now finally the video. It's not GREAT quality but it will help someone who is screwed. If it's good enough for the how to section I ask that before anyone posts it there they verify that this repair can be done on another Taurus with the Vulcan engine. There is a possibility I was only able to due to an issue with motor mounts....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fz2fB4-AYMA&feature=youtu.be
 
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