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Discussion Starter #1
So back on Feb 2nd I started to get a squeek occasionally under the hood.
Being as mechanically declined as I am when it come to the engine I took it to the neighborhood shop to have it checked.
Told it was the original belt, starting to get worn out etc... Had them change it out.
Everything was good till last week and now the squeeeeek! squeeeeek! squeeeeek! squeeeeek! is BACK! :angry:
But not all the time. Sometimes... :headscratch:
Sometimes when I start it up and then that's it. :dunno:
Sometimes when I step on the gas. :banghead:
Sometimes while just idling. :question:
But not all the time and kinda random like.
So yesterday I took a real good look under the hood while it was idling and it looks like the belt may not be wide enough???? :confused:
As it's going around it looks like it is slightly moving back and forth within the pulley grooves.

The sound drives me friggin' nuts at times. If my car had a throat I think I'd literally choke it! :angry:

Thanks as always
~~~03SE
 

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Did you use a Ford belt? I have found aftermarket belts to be substandard and have always used the belt the manufacturer called for after my 93 Probe kept eating belts for lunch. When you put the Autozone, O'Reilly, and Napa belts on the car, you could literally watch the alternator belts shred. At first, I thought it was a bur, and I replaced the pulley. When it kept eating belts, then I thought it was the alternator, and replaced the alternator. Finally, after the new alternator ate 3 belts, I went to the Ford dealership and bought a Ford belt.

I was amazed that there was no squealing and the alternator did not eat the belt. Lesson learned: use only belts made by the car manufacturer. The grooves in the aftermarket belt do not always line up with the grooves on the pulley exactly.

PS The dealership belts don't always cost that much more than the aftermarket.
PPS It's cheaper to do the job right with the right part once than many times with the wrong part.
PPPS If it's not the belt, it may be that there is not enough tension on the belt. Adjust the tension.
 

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Mine was squeeking, it was the idler pulley bearings going dry. Swapped in a used one from another Taurus and its been fine for the last 2 years. The same thing happened on my BMW, but in that case I put some oil in a syringe and injected a tiny bit of oil behind the seal lip. It's been fine for the last 3 or 4 months so far. I'll do just about anything to stay out of the BMW parts dept (stealer ship).
 

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It could be the belt, which if you switch out again I recommend the Gatorback. You can pick one up at Autozone.

It could also be the Idler pulley. Are you ABSOLUTELY sure it's on the passenger side as well? It could be the Camshaft Synchronizer shaft that is going, but that sound would be coming from the driver's side and the rear side of the engine.


To Test whether it is the idler pulley do this. Take the Serpentine Belt Removal tool (can rent one at AZ or buy one for $30 at any parts store). Take the belt off and spin the idler pulley. If it slows down pretty quickly (due to grease within it) then the pulley is good. If it spins pretty freely then the pulley is out of grease and needs to be replaced.

When the pulley bearings are cold and don't have grease they squeak and it sounds like a belt squeak. When the bearings warm up the squeak tends to go away.

There is a procedure that I wrote up for removing the belt and replacing the pulley. You can find it under the Topic Finder (or cheat and click here)
 

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I've used NAPA belts for years with no problems.

Maybe you have an idler pulley bearing going bad?
 

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I had belt squeaks with my old Ford Belt... It got wet, and it squeaked each time I started the car.


I put a Gatorback belt on, it's been on for over 3 years, has yet to squeak once. Even after driving though more deep water.

What a reliable belt :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
THANKS EVERYONE WHO RESPONDED!

I'm 99.99% sure it from that side. I borrowed some Prestone's safe for serpentine belts' belt dressing (I know it's not good to use as a fix but to narrow down the probably cases it is only being used as a tool) and when I sprayed it on, the squeak went away for about a day and a half

Taking everyone's advice I think I'll try these things in these steps...

1) Adjust the tension.
If that doesn't work....
2) Take off the belt, make sure it's still good, use steel brush to clean all the pulleys, and check the idler pulley for spin/grease.
If that doesn't work...
3) Replace the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley while I have it apart.
Hope this does is it.
 

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1. can't do. the belt is spring loaded
2. check ALL of the idler pulleys and i wouldn't bother trying to clean the idlers. i think they are all plastic

3. just replace all of the idlers. they are all 7 years old at this point.
 

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QUOTE (crackhead @ Apr 3 2009, 08:27 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=714895
1. can't do. the belt is spring loaded
2. check ALL of the idler pulleys and i wouldn't bother trying to clean the idlers. i think they are all plastic

3. just replace all of the idlers. they are all 7 years old at this point.[/b]

There is only 1 idler pulley (as seen in this link: Route Diagram) The top 'unmarked' pulley is the Idler pulley. The other pulley is the Tensioner pulley.

I know that my pulley (a cheapo part from Autozone) was not plastic.

I do agree with not brushing them down, but just replacing them. The parts are no more than $5-$10.
 

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Try spraying a little WD-40 on both sides of the belt while the engine is running. If the squeak is caused by a little glaze on the belt or a pulley, it will take care of it. WD-40 will NOT cause the belt to slip.
 

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Mine's a '97 Taurus with steel idler pulley and steel tensioner pulley. I couldn't see the point in paying thirty bucks for an idler pulley assembly and another fifty for a new tensioner assembly. So I just pressed the old bearings out and pressed in new bearings. Total cost for both pulley bearings was around ten dollars. The bearing number is 6203-2RS (Google it) and dimensions are 17mmX40mmX12mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK so according to the diagram I was referred to:

A=Idler Pulley
B=Belt Tensioner Pulley
Is that correct????

Checking Advanced Autoparts Website I came across these:


Should I go for the "Factory" pulleys or go for the Dayco's?

And what about this:

Should I get this instead of "JUST" the Tensioner Pulley?

Thanks Again to ALL who have responded! :notworthy:
 

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Just tell people you have a Supercharger under the hood if they ask why its squeaking :D
 

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If you can wait for Mail to arrive (5-7 days) rockauto.com has what you are looking for for much cheaper. The most expensive Idler pulley on there is the ACDelco for $20. Same goes for the Tensioner Pulley.

There is also a codes area up above for rockauto.com where you can save 5% on the order.

So if you were to get the 2 most expensive pulleys (Idler & Tensioner) it would roughly cost: $38 + Shipping
 

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Discussion Starter #18
QUOTE (ricer333 @ Apr 4 2009, 10:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=715168
If you can wait for Mail to arrive (5-7 days) rockauto.com has what you are looking for for much cheaper. The most expensive Idler pulley on there is the ACDelco for $20. Same goes for the Tensioner Pulley.

There is also a codes area up above for rockauto.com where you can save 5% on the order.

So if you were to get the 2 most expensive pulleys (Idler & Tensioner) it would roughly cost: $38 + Shipping[/b]
!!!!!

I just bought my electronic flasher from ROCKAUTO not too long ago....
Thank You for the reminder! :salute:
 

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QUOTE (03SE @ Apr 4 2009, 02:47 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=715113
OK so according to the diagram I was referred to:

A=Idler Pulley
B=Belt Tensioner Pulley
Is that correct????

Checking Advanced Autoparts Website I came across these:


Should I go for the "Factory" pulleys or go for the Dayco's?

And what about this:

Should I get this instead of "JUST" the Tensioner Pulley?

Thanks Again to ALL who have responded! :notworthy:[/b]

Only replace the entire tensioner assembly if the spring in it has lost its strength. As long as it still holds enough tension to make sure everything that should turn turns without belt slippage, it's good. Pulley bearings wear out quicker and require replacement. If you have access to an arbor press (or have a friend who does) just replace the bearing instead of the pulley. Both the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley use the same bearing (at least they do on my '97.) SKU #6203-2RS. You can buy ten bearings for about what ONE idler pulley costs. You could use 2 of them, throw the other 8 away (can't imagine why you would want to) and STILL be about $20 ahead. Order them here...........

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6203-2RS10

pops
 

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I've seen brake fluid used to quiet a squeaking belt. It will quiet a belt and or pulleys. Don't know if it is good or bad. Used car sales men love brake fluid. That's where I saw it done.
 
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