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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am posting this in Maintenance and Repair Section because by my logic it is preventive maintenance against rust.

In an effort to stop the damage of what rust in the Rust Belt can do to our vehicles - I did some research on Texaco Rust Proof Compound L. This product remains a grease and stops rust and has great testimonials of people in Michigan who have used this on many cars over the years that they kept a long time and racked up the miles on.

After going to the Texaco/Chevron website and making phone calls to the Company and getting transferred to different areas without any luck. I wrote a letter to the CEO of the Company and an Chevron Lubrication Engineer gave me a call at home. Chevron made a business decision to stop selling the product 2 years ago. After talking to the Lubrication Engineer he checked and found a Michigan company called Chemtool that sells Texaco Rust Proof Compound L (which is identified under Chemtool as MPT-L) to two different rust proofing companies in Michigan.

The two locations in Michigan are:

Henderson Brothers Rustproof‎
111 Austin Street, Midland, MI 48640-5649
(989) 631-0121‎
2004 Mercury Sable Wagon - $330.00 – 5 Yrs/50K miles warranty
3 yrs/25K miles come back for touchup -charge up to maximum of $15
Removes door panels to apply rust proofing, no holes drilled
8:00 AM drop off car - pickup car at 4:00 PM
Owners Tony Sr. & Jr.
This company has a 6 week backlog of vehicles to get rust proofed.

Glo Car Wash
20030 West Outer Drive, Dearborn, MI‎ 48124-2039
(313) 563-0440‎
2004 Mercury Sable Wagon - $225.00
2 yrs touchup no charge
No door panels taken off
Drill holes to apply rust proofing
Brenda was the contact person.
No backlog of vehicles to get rust proofed.

The prices that are listed are for my vehicle, and vary by vehicle.

I am not affliated with either business, just wanted to help out other Michiganers protect their investment.

]
k8crd

Paul in Michigan
 

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Eastwood Company in PA sells a Heavy Duty Rust Preventer. It is wax based, self healing and never hardens. Great for DIY.
 

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QUOTE (2000_Gold_Taurus @ Jun 3 2010, 11:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808956
Unless you like the smokescreen effect, I would keep it off of the exhaust.[/b]
Duely noted. I ll have to be careful then when i apply the coating to the underbody. All those years of salty roads are not the nicest. Hopefully ,if i remove as much of the rust i can from the under body and cover it with paint plus using the stuff from this company once the paint dries, it ll keep the rust at bay for quiet a while.
 

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I've found that if you wirebrush moderate rust so nothing is flaking off you can coat it with the rust preventer and be good to go. If you want to do more, use a rust converter before applying the preventer. I also coat any hardware and threads (except exhaust) with it when I do work under the car. Hasn't failed me yet.
 

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missed one we use this place for new cars/ trucks it is a parafen wax and grease type rust proofing we used it on my ranger 16 years ago. it is a 1994 xlt ranger the only spots that are eating threw are on the bed above the arches and it just started last year. but any ways 15 years rust free up here is damn good if you ask me. keep in mind this stuff is messy if working on the auto it self get in your hair on your skin etc...


this is the place we got it done at in michigan


http://www.ziebart.com/rust_protection.php
 

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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it is a messy job. Protect yourself accordingly. Rubbing alcohol gets it off your skin.
 

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QUOTE (TAURUSGLV6 @ Jun 3 2010, 11:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809127
QUOTE (2000_Gold_Taurus @ Jun 3 2010, 05:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809049
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it is a messy job. Protect yourself accordingly. Rubbing alcohol gets it off your skin.[/b]
Ty i cant wait to stop the rust. I want this car to last me for a bunch more years. I am also thinking of putting mud flaps on to help prevent more wheel rust.
[/b][/quote]

Just how many more years do you plan on driving the car? The reason most rust proofing places are gone is that most people don't bother with it and it's considered a scam. The only reason they stuck around was because some people remember the old days when rustproofing wasn't very good but since the 80's, American cars haven't really rusted out like they did before. Typical advice now is to avoid rustproofing the car which is probably why the manufacturer stopped making it. Something else would probably happen to your car before it rusted out to the point where it wasn't drivable. If you're in a salt area, you should probably just get an undercarriage wash during the winter time to wash out the salt, but you're probably better saving your money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
QUOTE (sadistic @ Jun 3 2010, 05:52 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809047
missed one we use this place for new cars/ trucks it is a parafen wax and grease type rust proofing we used it on my ranger 16 years ago. it is a 1994 xlt ranger the only spots that are eating threw are on the bed above the arches and it just started last year. but any ways 15 years rust free up here is damn good if you ask me. keep in mind this stuff is messy if working on the auto it self get in your hair on your skin etc...


this is the place we got it done at in michigan


http://www.ziebart.com/rust_protection.php[/b]

No, I did not. I was looking specifically for rust proofing that contain Texaco Rust Proof Compound L (which is identified under Chemtool as MPT-L) because of all the good reviews I read about on the internet of high mileage vehicles whose bodies survived 15-18 years of Michigan winters.

I just want to avoid rust that compromises the structural integrity of the body/chassis. There are some
good pictures on this website that show what can happen to rust belt vehicles and the rear strut towers
when they rust out and the struts shoots up into the rear window tray.

That is good testimony that your Ranger got thru 15 years of Michigan Winters.
I agree that this stuff is messy when you work on your vehicle, but that is the price we have to pay
to make our vehicle survive long term in Michigan.

How about showing some pictures of your ranger?



k8crd
 

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QUOTE (k8crd @ Jun 4 2010, 08:59 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809400
QUOTE (sadistic @ Jun 3 2010, 05:52 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809047
missed one we use this place for new cars/ trucks it is a parafen wax and grease type rust proofing we used it on my ranger 16 years ago. it is a 1994 xlt ranger the only spots that are eating threw are on the bed above the arches and it just started last year. but any ways 15 years rust free up here is damn good if you ask me. keep in mind this stuff is messy if working on the auto it self get in your hair on your skin etc...


this is the place we got it done at in michigan


http://www.ziebart.com/rust_protection.php[/b]

No, I did not. I was looking specifically for rust proofing that contain Texaco Rust Proof Compound L (which is identified under Chemtool as MPT-L) because of all the good reviews I read about on the internet of high mileage vehicles whose bodies survived 15-18 years of Michigan winters.

I just want to avoid rust that compromises the structural integrity of the body/chassis. There are some
good pictures on this website that show what can happen to rust belt vehicles and the rear strut towers
when they rust out and the struts shoots up into the rear window tray.

That is good testimony that your Ranger got thru 15 years of Michigan Winters.
I agree that this stuff is messy when you work on your vehicle, but that is the price we have to pay
to make our vehicle survive long term in Michigan.

How about showing some pictures of your ranger?



k8crd
[/b][/quote]

I hear ya my 3.0L bull i got it from a relative that lived in up state new york. The rust belt wasnt to kind to this car but im hoping with the products you guys listed here and some light sanding and painting i can make the bull look great and last many more years.

My plan to hold back the rust is:

lightly sand the under body and parts of the body that have rust

bondo the body panels were rust was

Paint the bondo'ed areas and the lighly sanded underbody

Cover with HD rust preventor listed above

install mud flaps of the front and rear tires

Whatcha guys think?
 

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Sounds like a plan. You can't paint over the HD rust preventer as it never hardens. Use it on the underside only. They do make a clear coating to go over paint to prevent rock chips, etc. Maybe Eastwood has it.
 

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I've got a good example of how well oil undercoatings work:



That's on my F150, the U-joint has been spraying the underside with grease for the last 20 or so years, you can see how there's no rust wherever it was sprayed, but there's plenty where it hasn't. It literally stopped it. Imagine if the whole underside was covered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've got a good example of how well oil undercoatings work:



That's on my F150, the U-joint has been spraying the underside with grease for the last 20 or so years, you can see how there's no rust wherever it was sprayed, but there's plenty where it hasn't. It literally stopped it. Imagine if the whole underside was covered.
Your picture says it all.
 

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QUOTE (k8crd @ Jun 4 2010, 08:59 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809400
Whatcha guys think?
I think the main thing is have it rust protected by a reputable company .. the process is a bit more complicated than simply spraying external surfaces and usually involves drilling holes to access hidden areas.

Rust protection works big time and it's never too late to get it done. Worth every penny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think the main thing is have it rust protected by a reputable company .. the process is a bit more complicated than simply spraying external surfaces and usually involves drilling holes to access hidden areas.

Rust protection works big time and it's never too late to get it done. Worth every penny.
AMEN!, Rust protection is cheap when you compare the cost to repair or replace rusted out sections of the body.
 
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