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ok, so now i've got to run my amp power cable from the battery to the back of the car. i've never done this before, and it appears i'm not gonna have any irl help from any experienced friends.

would it be easiest to use a battery relocation kit to move the battery to the back of the car, and just hook up the wire from there? that seems like it would be the easiest, because then the only wire i have to run from front to back would be the battery wire. that way i could hook up both the power for the amp and the power inverter that will power my computer up front.

either way, i don't have a clue as to how to run the cable from the battery (say i kept it up front), from under the hood into the cabin area. i guess i could go through the firewall, but how? make a hole? how?

ps
also, removing the battery from the front would give me more room for possible other projects ;););)
 

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make a hole ot se the one above the fues box (hard to find)

Safer and easier to leave the battery where it is.

Brad
 

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If you put the battery in the front or back you will still have to run one power wire. If the battery is in the front thwn you have to run a wire from the battery to the amp. If the battery is in the back you have to run wires back to the power distribution fuse box and the alternator in the fron. I think. It would be like doing the more work for the same thing to put the battery in the back, unless you have other reasons for moving it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by spy2520@Aug 14 2004, 04:06 PM
If you put the battery in the front or back you will still have to run one power wire. If the battery is in the front thwn you have to run a wire from the battery to the amp. If the battery is in the back you have to run wires back to the power distribution fuse box and the alternator in the fron. I think. It would be like doing the more work for the same thing to put the battery in the back, unless you have other reasons for moving it too.
well i'd have to run 2 to the front, one for amp and one for power inverter...though i think i'm just going to plug the inverter into the 12v outlet

brad, wtf did you just say, lol..."make a hole ot se..." i was lmao'ing :D anyways, you say there's a hole near the fuse box? okies, i'll look into that...

as for a power-on wire for the amp, my friend said i should connect it to the day-time running lights..where would i do this? :)
 

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Originally posted by j0rd4n@Aug 14 2004, 07:12 PM


as for a power-on wire for the amp, my friend said i should connect it to the day-time running lights..where would i do this? :)
Hi! :xyxwave:

Newbie here, but not new to stereos!

Are you installing the Amp from the stock stereo? If so, then that may be your only option(never installed a stereo in a Taurus)...But I would personally want to avoid hooking my amp to the DTRLs.


If it is stock and you have a power antenna, that would prolly be a better source for the remote wire(blue wire from amp to let it know to come on)...But it depends...If the antenna comes up when you turn the stereo on, and stays up even when in tape or CD mode, then that is ideal. but if not, then it would only work when the radio is on.

If it an aftermarket stereo, there should be a blue wire coming from the back of the stereo also, this is the one you would want.
 

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Gen III Tauri have a small opening on either side of the firewall, right near the master cylinder on the driver's side, and one that is very inaccessible on the passenger's side. I ran my power through there, and just wrapped it a dozen or so times with electrical tape to make sure that the jacket couldn't be cut by the firewall.

JR
 

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Hi, Thanks for the warm welcome!

Yall seem like a great bunch, I guess that makes me pretty lucky...I am coming here from MX6.com, another great bunch of car guys. I look forward to learning all about my new 98 Taurus!! The search has already yielded some great info!

-Jay
 

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Ah, werd. Thats sounds awesome!

So it will be completely seperate from your stereo, or you will not even be using your stereo/disconnecting it?

If it is wired to the DTRL then you can only run your amp when they are on...i.e. when you park you will not be able to listen to your MP3s(Im guessing thats what your doing?).

A better idea might be to find a wire that becomes hot when the key is turned to the Acc or On position(ie the stereos power wire or maybe the Aux 12V port(not sure about this one). The amp only requires the 12V for a signal to tell it to be on or off, so it will not have a large current draw, one of these should do fine.

Good luck!!
 

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You could always just run a small guage power wire from the battery and install a switch on it (make sure you put a fuse in). Mount the switch under your dash and turn it on when you want the equipment on, or when you start the car. Just make sure you flip it off when you get out. My buddy had something like this set up in his Trans Am, but he had a relay that would open the circuit if the battery dropped below a certain voltage so that it wouldn't drain the batt.

JR
 

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I too am working on the same project as j0rd4n. I've been researching for a long time. Lots of planning involved. I've just recently started actually working on everything.

Power - Easiest way (that I have already done for previous stereo install). First get you something like this:
http://www.precisionautosound.net/fbt4.gif' alt='' width='360' height='185' class='attach' />[/url]
This will go over your battery terminal and will allow connection to/from the starter and allow you to run a cable to the back of the car. I recommend going with 4 gauge although an 8 gauge will work. (Go 4 gauge IMO.)

Run the cable into the fender and in through the firewall. I'll have to go back an look to see where exactly mine is running through. Pull off your kick panels (by the door) and run the cable under the carpet into the trunk. Remember, power wire on one side and signal wires (RCAs) on the other.

Next you need something like this:
[url=http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/142/t142pdb4i-f_dg.gif][img]http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/142/t142pdb4i-f_dg.gif' alt='' width='70' height='75' class='attach' />[/url] It will take the 4ga wire and split it into 4 - 8 gauge connections. From there you run wires to amps and such.

Remote turn on: Unless you are taking the all the stock stuff out (RCU mainly) then I may have an easier way of remotely turning on everything. The RCU was to be turned somehow. I'm going to take a multimeter to it and figure out which on is 12V-ACC. One of them has to be hot while the car is on. I'll keep ya posted. This way you don't need to run a seperate line just for remote (been there, done that). Don't use a regular switch if you do run a line from the front to back. I've accidentally left the switch on on more than one occasion and killed my battery because of it. My two cents there.

Also, I'm assuming you are using the inverter to run the PC. Not the best idea but it will work. The inverter will not be able to handle the power draw during starting (ie. your computer will not stay on). A DC-DC power supply is the best idea. They are not cheap but are more well suited to your needs. I can post more information on this if you like. Don't throw the inverter out, however. The ability of having AC power in the car if very helpful at times.

Ask me more stuff. I've probably thought about it at one point or another. Like I said, I've been reading lots of stuff on another forum pertaining to this.

Derek
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by d_sellers1@Aug 19 2004, 07:17 PM
I too am working on the same project as j0rd4n. I've been researching for a long time. Lots of planning involved. I've just recently started actually working on everything.

Power - Easiest way (that I have already done for previous stereo install). First get you something like this:
http://www.precisionautosound.net/fbt4.gif' alt='' width='360' height='185' class='attach' />[/url]
This will go over your battery terminal and will allow connection to/from the starter and allow you to run a cable to the back of the car. I recommend going with 4 gauge although an 8 gauge will work. (Go 4 gauge IMO.)

Run the cable into the fender and in through the firewall. I'll have to go back an look to see where exactly mine is running through. Pull off your kick panels (by the door) and run the cable under the carpet into the trunk. Remember, power wire on one side and signal wires (RCAs) on the other.

Next you need something like this:
[url=http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/142/t142pdb4i-f_dg.gif][img]http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/142/t142pdb4i-f_dg.gif' alt='' width='70' height='75' class='attach' />[/url] It will take the 4ga wire and split it into 4 - 8 gauge connections. From there you run wires to amps and such.

Remote turn on: Unless you are taking the all the stock stuff out (RCU mainly) then I may have an easier way of remotely turning on everything. The RCU was to be turned somehow. I'm going to take a multimeter to it and figure out which on is 12V-ACC. One of them has to be hot while the car is on. I'll keep ya posted. This way you don't need to run a seperate line just for remote (been there, done that). Don't use a regular switch if you do run a line from the front to back. I've accidentally left the switch on on more than one occasion and killed my battery because of it. My two cents there.

Also, I'm assuming you are using the inverter to run the PC. Not the best idea but it will work. The inverter will not be able to handle the power draw during starting (ie. your computer will not stay on). A DC-DC power supply is the best idea. They are not cheap but are more well suited to your needs. I can post more information on this if you like. Don't throw the inverter out, however. The ability of having AC power in the car if very helpful at times.

Ask me more stuff. I've probably thought about it at one point or another. Like I said, I've been reading lots of stuff on another forum pertaining to this.

Derek [/b][/quote]
thx for all the suggestions.

tomorrow will be the final day, methinks. i'm hopefully getting help from the 2nd place finisher at the '97 nopi nationals, cause he heard about my project and liked it. he's even donating one of his old stinger battery terminal connector things like you have, and he's going to help me make sure everything is run alright.

yeah, the stock stereo will be completely disconnected, as well as the tuner/amp in the back.

im too tired to finish this post, so i'm going to bed. i'll talk to you guys tomorrow :D
 

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I like this terminal a lot. It is very versatile, can take up to two 1/0 gauge connections and it has the bolt for ring terminals on top. Here's a larger pic of it:
 

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Okay. I've got my amps hooked up. Power and signal wires are working. I haven't hooked up the subs just yet. Stupid rain.

Some info:
CD Changer Connector Near the RCU in the trunk there is a little gray connector attached to the fender wall. There is three wires that go into it:
Code:
Red/Gray    Ã‚ - ??? (Signal?)
Red/Yellow  Ã‚ - Constant 12V+
Purple/Black - ACC 12V+
That Purple/Black wire works great as a remote. That's where I have my amps connected. You can also wire this up to you inverters switch if you want it to turn on when the car turns on. Remember, car turns off; inverter goes off. Now you don't have to worry about running a remote.

Trunk light switch plug Open the trunk and the little light turns on. Well that little lights sucks @$$. Hook up something else to it such as a big neon tube on the top.
Code:
Green    Ã‚ - Positive
Black/Red - Negative
Hopefully this rain will go away soon.

Derek
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by d_sellers1@Aug 21 2004, 02:17 PM
Okay. I've got my amps hooked up. Power and signal wires are working. I haven't hooked up the subs just yet. Stupid rain.

Some info:
CD Changer Connector Near the RCU in the trunk there is a little gray connector attached to the fender wall. There is three wires that go into it:
Code:
Red/Gray    Ã‚ - ??? (Signal?)
Red/Yellow  Ã‚ - Constant 12V+
Purple/Black - ACC 12V+
That Purple/Black wire works great as a remote. That's where I have my amps connected. You can also wire this up to you inverters switch if you want it to turn on when the car turns on. Remember, car turns off; inverter goes off. Now you don't have to worry about running a remote.

Trunk light switch plug Open the trunk and the little light turns on. Well that little lights sucks @$$. Hook up something else to it such as a big neon tube on the top.
Code:
Green    Ã‚ - Positive
Black/Red - Negative
Hopefully this rain will go away soon.

Derek
you're the man now, dog! thx for the info, i will most likely def use that. i had planned on doing my stuff on fri and today, but we've done a little server room remodeling and the raid array on our PDC went defunct earlier, so guess where i still am :/

yay for dns on a separate server ;)
 

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Originally posted by j0rd4n@Aug 21 2004, 08:52 PM
you're the man now, dog! thx for the info, i will most likely def use that. i had planned on doing my stuff on fri and today, but we've done a little server room remodeling and the raid array on our PDC went defunct earlier, so guess where i still am :/

yay for dns on a separate server ;)
Sorry to hear that. Are you guys on Active Directory yet? We have a couple dozen domain controllers with active directory, and we have six just at our facility, one for each firewall zone.

JR
 
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