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^ Iirc, the imrc gasket he's referring to is on 04+ vulcans.

That I understand. However, my '01 suffers from the same symptoms 2. and 3 (described above). Also, even in Neutral, with A/C running, car shakes. If A/C is off and car in Neutral, I don't feel any shaking. I my car has no said part/gasket, what can be causing those symptoms?
 

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Check to be sure the black rubber vacuum elbow is connected and the red and/or green small hard lines are inserted in its bottom on the firewall side of the upper intake.
 

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Check to be sure the black rubber vacuum elbow is connected and the red and/or green small hard lines are inserted in its bottom on the firewall side of the upper intake.

I did that, thanks, sheila. Everything was okay. Went to a different mechanic, changed Injector 2, checked compression in cylinder 2 - great, but still have a problem. He hooked car up to a Snap-On computer, everything is normal.

Shaking problem occurs under load only (car in gear or A/C running). Mechanic thinks it could be clogged EGR valve. He 's saying that because problem happens only at low RPM. And scanner showed no faults with IAC.

Forgot to mention, problem with shaking only occurs until car reaches ~40mph


What are your thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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I am dealing with an EGR issue right now, and I can tell you, yours sounds like how mine is acting. If I find the issue, I will let you know.
 

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You can easily test your egr valve by removing its vac. hose and replacing it with a ~12" scrap piece of hose. With eng. idling, suck on open end of sampling hose. Eng. should stumble or die if valve is working properly due to the fact there should be no egr flow to the manifold at idle or wot (wide open throttle). When you suck on the hose, you're opening the valve's diaphragm (pintle) introducing egr flow into the intake.
 

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CEL come on

Okay, CEL finally come on P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire. I also got some Freeze Frame Data, maybe someone will be able to decipher it:

Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 CL - Fault
Calc Load (%) 68.63
ETC (F) 194
STFT B1 (%) 4.69
LTFT B1 (%) 7.81
STFT B2 (%) 0.78
LTFT B2 (%) 7.81
Eng RPM 2271
Veh Speed (mph) 24

Third mechanic thinks that I might need a new head gasket and I possibly have a burnt valve, as he saying that compression in cylinder 2 is low. Estimate for parts and labor $900-1,200

Any thoughts?
Thanks.
 

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Common problem, unfortunately. The head may be cracked, make sure it's checked off the car. And if your coolant is sludged, just skip all the misery and install a rebuilt engine. Once the coolant sludges on the Vulcans they're gone. I see at least one a week at work.
 

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Common problem, unfortunately. The head may be cracked, make sure it's checked off the car. And if your coolant is sludged, just skip all the misery and install a rebuilt engine. Once the coolant sludges on the Vulcans they're gone. I see at least one a week at work.
Thanks for the answer. Engine does not overheat and in 2 years that I owned it it always run normal temperature. I bought this car for $2K, I had it for 2 years, so I think it payed for itself. If not for the tin worm, maybe I would spend $1K for the repair, but if I put another $1K in it, I'd have to drive it for another year. I guess I'll try to live with this problem, as even if repaired, I wont recoup money spent.

And maybe it's not a head problem, but a broken piston ring, so repair might be even more expensive.
 

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2006 Vulcan Erratic Idle Solved!

I have had all the symptoms mentioned on this page. Erratic and hunting idle. Misfiring. Popping in intake tube like popcorn being made. Fluctuating headlights in idle. Sometimes have to start car second time. Idle not coming down properly or taking a long time to come down. Spent hours trying things checking connections and hoses. Nothing found. Ford had it twice in the 3 years we have been having this issue. Also had the bank 1 Autolite platinum spark plugs burned down to the ceramic in less than 2 years! Cant believe the girl was still running with the massive plug gap. Bank 1 plugs were normal looking.



Well folks after 3 years of replacing IAC, IAT, Engine temp sensor, timing chain, plugs, different gaps, coil, wires, blah blah blah and many hours hunting online for an answer I finally found it.


ALTERNATOR!


The alternator is regulated by the PCM Module hence the 3 wire connector. When the board or diodes go defective in the alternator, the PCM gets a noisy feedback and it does not behave properly and does not control the motor properly. Computers do not like noise or bad signal with AC waveform. SIMPLE TEST was to unplug the alternator while running and see if the engine runs normal again. For me, as soon as I unplugged the alternator, all the symptoms mentioned above instantly went away. Idle came down more. It smoothed right out. Popping in intake (more noticeable when you undo the air filter connection) completely stopped. I purchased new alternator and installed it. Completely discharged the computer for a few hours to make it a clean start and everything is working awesome.


Better vacuum, better braking, lower idle, more control on slippery ground (I am in Canada in rural area) and wife says it has more pickup, smoother shifting and requires much less pedal so way better driveability. Got a kiss for fixing it too LOL



Hope some of you can benefit from this. Love the Taurus!!!


2006 Taurus OHV Vulcan 3 litre. 248,000 kilometres (150,000 miles) on this girl.
 

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I have had all the symptoms mentioned on this page. Erratic and hunting idle. Misfiring. Popping in intake tube like popcorn being made. Fluctuating headlights in idle. Sometimes have to start car second time. Idle not coming down properly or taking a long time to come down. Spent hours trying things checking connections and hoses. Nothing found. Ford had it twice in the 3 years we have been having this issue. Also had the bank 1 Autolite platinum spark plugs burned down to the ceramic in less than 2 years! Cant believe the girl was still running with the massive plug gap. Bank 1 plugs were normal looking.



Well folks after 3 years of replacing IAC, IAT, Engine temp sensor, timing chain, plugs, different gaps, coil, wires, blah blah blah and many hours hunting online for an answer I finally found it.


ALTERNATOR!


The alternator is regulated by the PCM Module hence the 3 wire connector. When the board or diodes go defective in the alternator, the PCM gets a noisy feedback and it does not behave properly and does not control the motor properly. Computers do not like noise or bad signal with AC waveform. SIMPLE TEST was to unplug the alternator while running and see if the engine runs normal again. For me, as soon as I unplugged the alternator, all the symptoms mentioned above instantly went away. Idle came down more. It smoothed right out. Popping in intake (more noticeable when you undo the air filter connection) completely stopped. I purchased new alternator and installed it. Completely discharged the computer for a few hours to make it a clean start and everything is working awesome.


Better vacuum, better braking, lower idle, more control on slippery ground (I am in Canada in rural area) and wife says it has more pickup, smoother shifting and requires much less pedal so way better driveability. Got a kiss for fixing it too LOL



Hope some of you can benefit from this. Love the Taurus!!!


2006 Taurus OHV Vulcan 3 litre. 248,000 kilometres (150,000 miles) on this girl.
Happy to hear you finally sussed the cause of the glitches! What turned you onto the alternator as the cause?

With 150K miles, you're just getting the car broken in. Sorry to hear you went the "toss parts at it" route to figure it out, but on the bright side - you needn't worry about doing them again for a good long time. Now, you can enjoy it for a good while! :)
 

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I have had all the symptoms mentioned on this page. Erratic and hunting idle. Misfiring. Popping in intake tube like popcorn being made. Fluctuating headlights in idle. Sometimes have to start car second time. Idle not coming down properly or taking a long time to come down. Spent hours trying things checking connections and hoses. Nothing found. Ford had it twice in the 3 years we have been having this issue. Also had the bank 1 Autolite platinum spark plugs burned down to the ceramic in less than 2 years! Cant believe the girl was still running with the massive plug gap. Bank 1 plugs were normal looking.

Well folks after 3 years of replacing IAC, IAT, Engine temp sensor, timing chain, plugs, different gaps, coil, wires, blah blah blah and many hours hunting online for an answer I finally found it.

ALTERNATOR!

The alternator is regulated by the PCM Module hence the 3 wire connector. When the board or diodes go defective in the alternator, the PCM gets a noisy feedback and it does not behave properly and does not control the motor properly. Computers do not like noise or bad signal with AC waveform. SIMPLE TEST was to unplug the alternator while running and see if the engine runs normal again. For me, as soon as I unplugged the alternator, all the symptoms mentioned above instantly went away. Idle came down more. It smoothed right out. Popping in intake (more noticeable when you undo the air filter connection) completely stopped. I purchased new alternator and installed it. Completely discharged the computer for a few hours to make it a clean start and everything is working awesome.

Better vacuum, better braking, lower idle, more control on slippery ground (I am in Canada in rural area) and wife says it has more pickup, smoother shifting and requires much less pedal so way better driveability. Got a kiss for fixing it too LOL

My 2006 had the same exact issues. Moaning and popping in intake was fixed with a new Motorcraft IAC valve. All weird idle response issues usually can be contributed to aftermarket IAC valve. I swap it with my other Taurus and symptoms move to that car. Blinking lights were were solved by replacing worn slip rings and brushes on the alternator at 146k miles
 

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I have had all the symptoms mentioned on this page. Erratic and hunting idle. Misfiring. Popping in intake tube like popcorn being made. Fluctuating headlights in idle. Sometimes have to start car second time. Idle not coming down properly or taking a long time to come down. Spent hours trying things checking connections and hoses. Nothing found. Ford had it twice in the 3 years we have been having this issue. Also had the bank 1 Autolite platinum spark plugs burned down to the ceramic in less than 2 years! Cant believe the girl was still running with the massive plug gap. Bank 1 plugs were normal looking.



Well folks after 3 years of replacing IAC, IAT, Engine temp sensor, timing chain, plugs, different gaps, coil, wires, blah blah blah and many hours hunting online for an answer I finally found it.


ALTERNATOR!


The alternator is regulated by the PCM Module hence the 3 wire connector. When the board or diodes go defective in the alternator, the PCM gets a noisy feedback and it does not behave properly and does not control the motor properly. Computers do not like noise or bad signal with AC waveform. SIMPLE TEST was to unplug the alternator while running and see if the engine runs normal again. For me, as soon as I unplugged the alternator, all the symptoms mentioned above instantly went away. Idle came down more. It smoothed right out. Popping in intake (more noticeable when you undo the air filter connection) completely stopped. I purchased new alternator and installed it. Completely discharged the computer for a few hours to make it a clean start and everything is working awesome.


Better vacuum, better braking, lower idle, more control on slippery ground (I am in Canada in rural area) and wife says it has more pickup, smoother shifting and requires much less pedal so way better driveability. Got a kiss for fixing it too LOL



Hope some of you can benefit from this. Love the Taurus!!!


2006 Taurus OHV Vulcan 3 litre. 248,000 kilometres (150,000 miles) on this girl.
"The alternator is regulated by the PCM Module hence the 3 wire connector"
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As far as I know, all G1-G4 Bulls have Alt use 3 wire to the reg. Pre '02 use the center wire as the idiot light signal. '02 and later use the same center wire for the PCM signal to the Alt. Very confusing as the regulator color for MC part is the indication of which system is in use. Same physical connection including the V-8's with 2 wire to the Alt but 3 wire connection.
Part # table attached. Several here have had a mixup with the wrong Alt and is a pain. Been there.
-chart-
 

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The alternator on my bull gave up the ghost last week... I think it runs better now (ran pretty good before), AND I'm getting at least 1 mpg better to boot.

It almost made a quarter of a million miles. (Less than 1500 mi to go.)
 

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"The alternator is regulated by the PCM Module hence the 3 wire connector"
---------------------------------
As far as I know, all G1-G4 Bulls have Alt use 3 wire to the reg. Pre '02 use the center wire as the idiot light signal. '02 and later use the same center wire for the PCM signal to the Alt. Very confusing as the regulator color for MC part is the indication of which system is in use. Same physical connection including the V-8's with 2 wire to the Alt but 3 wire connection.
Part # table attached. Several here have had a mixup with the wrong Alt and is a pain. Been there.
-chart-
I had the original OEM alternator. I purchased a Bosch replacement (lifetime) and it worked like a charm
 

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We hope to exceed 250.000 mi now that I have fixed the stupid timing chain coolant leak and put a new chain on the girl.
Purrs like a kitten in idle.
 

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Happy to hear you finally sussed the cause of the glitches! What turned you onto the alternator as the cause?

With 150K miles, you're just getting the car broken in. Sorry to hear you went the "toss parts at it" route to figure it out, but on the bright side - you needn't worry about doing them again for a good long time. Now, you can enjoy it for a good while! :)
I wasn't throwing parts at it. Originally didn't have the popping. Took to Ford and no problem found. Fluctuating idle was first symptom so started with IAC. Was factory original and felt it was due at almost 100,000 mile. Been doing a lot of work. Cant return and had no improvement. Then went coil cause no vacuum leak found and hoses all great. Finally found a link on the web where a fellow took this to a new level and was measuring voltages at different points on the harness and found discrepancies. Should have all been the same output voltage. He eventually changed alternator. It took me countless hours to find this fix and since it was so easy to test, I disconnected the alternator and voila. All symptoms went away. Tried twice more at different times, for longer periods and same results. New alternator and love the idle now.
 

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I wasn't throwing parts at it. Originally didn't have the popping. Took to Ford and no problem found. Fluctuating idle was first symptom so started with IAC. Was factory original and felt it was due at almost 100,000 mile. Been doing a lot of work. Cant return and had no improvement. Then went coil cause no vacuum leak found and hoses all great. Finally found a link on the web where a fellow took this to a new level and was measuring voltages at different points on the harness and found discrepancies. Should have all been the same output voltage. He eventually changed alternator. It took me countless hours to find this fix and since it was so easy to test, I disconnected the alternator and voila. All symptoms went away. Tried twice more at different times, for longer periods and same results. New alternator and love the idle now.
Somewhere there is a bulletin about the defective Alt causing erratic behavior. I had an issue and popped the belt off and it made no difference. I used an inductive timing light and looked at the hex on the crank. Clearly the timing was bouncing all around. Switched to different front plug wire and same issue. I took mine to Ford shop and they found carbon tracking on 2 plug wires. Tec told me not uncommon for that and other things causing problems with PCM signals. Usual issue with the Alt being noisy electric signal is a shorted/open diode. That makes them whine at idle.


-chart-
 
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