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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when i start my 97 sho it idles rough well just enough to nitce but i must say it gets annoying after a while i just recently got in on the road and my mechanic that cert told me he thinks the engine has a miss in it maybe a tune up wouldnt hurt? but when i popped the hood i noticed the engine was moving alittle while its idling so heres another question maybe i need to change motor mounts or tranny mounts ?
 

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when i start my 97 sho it idles rough well just enough to nitce but i must say it gets annoying after a while i just recently got in on the road and my mechanic that cert told me he thinks the engine has a miss in it maybe a tune up wouldnt hurt? but when i popped the hood i noticed the engine was moving alittle while its idling so heres another question maybe i need to change motor mounts or tranny mounts ?
I had something similar, but it was the cause of needing new spark plugs, and wires. My car would just sit there an make huge jumps, and then also when gunning the car it would be delayed in full power. Is this the same for you??
 

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Needing a tune up can certainly cause the issue of a rough idle.

Some things that can be done if you have the cash to do them all, some are cheap or free if you have the cleaner...


Replace these with new items - Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Spark Plugs (AutoLite), Plug Wires (Motorcraft), PCV Valve (Motorcraft)

Clean these - Idle Air Control Valve (Brake Cleaner) , Throttle Body (Brake Cleaner and Stiff Toothbrush helps) Mass Air Flow Sensor (Only use MAF Cleaner for this or damage can result)

I had a rough idle problem with my Vulcan and doing all of that seemed to eradicate the problem.

Also check for vacuum leaks if you can.

Even if that doesn't 100% fix your problem its proper maintenance that should be completed at the right intervals anyways. Its a good place to start if you want to narrow down the problem also.


The motor moving is probably a separate issue entirely but may need to be addressed eventually.
 

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These guys obviously don't know SHO's.

It's probably a COP (Coil-on-plug). You have 8 of them, they are on every cylinder. It's essentially a coil, but instead of one big coil which handles all your cylinders, there is a smaller version on each cylinder.

There is no way to really tell which cylinder it is until it gets really bad and throws a code. If someone tells you to check for cracks in the rubber boot to see if it's bad, waive them off as this does not matter at all and doesn't make sense.

They can be pricey depending on where you go. Most good ones cost anywhere from around $80-$120 new. You can get eBay ones for as little as $15, but they will crap out on you within a couple months (I would know, I was a sucker and bought them).

Best of luck. And if you are going to do the repairs yourself (not hard), then I would check the plugs to to make sure they are still going strong.

As far as the engine mount question- NO! Your engine is allowed to move and when it misses (or has a slight miss) the engine will move because the angular momentum of your crank is slowed by the cylinder not firing, thus the other cylinder have to pick up some work, and will create the extra jolt of torque.
 

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Is it throwing any codes? (service engine soon light is on) If not, has your mechanic used a scanner to check for 'pending' codes? Have either of you done a compression test? How many miles on the car? Any idea how old the plugs are?

As stated above, cleaning your sensors and replacing the air and fuel filters are easy, cheap and probably need done anyway. Pulling one of the front bank COPs and plugs and checking them out is easy, too.

Changing the rear plugs is an adventure every V8 SHO owner should have at least once. You will definitely expand your *ahem* vocabulary. :p
 

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Dont mean to thread jack but i also have a rough idle on my 05 SE with the Vulcan V6. It kind of fluctuates up and down about 50-100 rpm but it almost feels like its mis-firing but i have cleaned the IAC, changed the plugs, wires, clean MAF, clean Throttle body check for Vac leaks and removed and cleaned EGR. NO CEL is on so im confused at this point, again im new here and i didnt mean to thread jack.
 

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SEyalater, you are running a completely different model that the OP. But I would consider resetting your computer (unplug battery for ~5 minutes) and see if that helps.

If it does not, you might check the resistivity on the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and you might need a new IAC altogether (they are not expensive)
 

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Dont mean to thread jack but i also have a rough idle on my 05 SE with the Vulcan V6. It kind of fluctuates up and down about 50-100 rpm but it almost feels like its mis-firing but i have cleaned the IAC, changed the plugs, wires, clean MAF, clean Throttle body check for Vac leaks and removed and cleaned EGR. NO CEL is on so im confused at this point, again im new here and i didnt mean to thread jack.
I know i don't have knock sensors on my 99 Vulcan, you might not on yours either.
 

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There aren't any knock sensors.. are you sure about that?
 

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Have your Cams been welded? The V8 SHO is known to have problems with the cam gear rotating slightly on the end of the cam causing the valve timing to be off. The Cam gear is pressed on and friction is the only thing that keeps it from moving, unfortunately this was found to be insufficient causing problems on a number of SHO V8s. I would do a compression check. If you have a slipped cam gear one bank of cylinders will show lower compression than the other bank. A mis timed engine will certainly not run correctly and if the cam gear has slipped it is only a matter of time before it moves far enough for a collision of a piston into a valve causing major damage.
 

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SEyalater.my 06 vulcan,has always ran rough with the boucning idle since it was new and after replacing every thing i could think of and many trips to the dealer it still does it.must just be the way it is,besides that the car runs good.
 

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Yeah im with you balochko24fan i've replaced the IAC and everything else i could think of, so yours actually did it from the dealer huh? Brand new? I agree the car runs great other than that its just annoying is all.
 

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yes,brand new,also i even went to the extent of going to used car dealers to test drive other 06,s and they were the same way,i have just learned to live with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks man i just heard that even just changing the plugs will take hours ? i just want my car to run smooth with no shaking haha
 

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Not the front ones.

If you have not changed the rears before, then it may take an hour or so, but not too bad. You just have to take the surge tank and intake horns off to get to them.
 

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what spark plugs would u guys recommend ? and where in canada can i get my cams welded ?
I do know what spark plugs are good in any Taurus.

Autolite double platinum

Probably about the best you need to buy, buying something like NGK or E3 will just cost you more money out of pocket.


A little google found a place in Spencer, MA that costs about $800 USD, but thats money well spent if your car is worth keeping around.

http://www.nesho.com/camwelding.html
 

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I am one of the people who had problems with Bosch Platinum, Platinum 2 and Platinum 4s, but i am not having any issues with the Bosch IR Fusion in my Vulcan.

Still knowing that i would recommend the Autolite Double Platinums because they have a proven track record on the forums.
 
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