Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This just started a month ago. It's having a hard time starting and idling really rough. Soon as it gets warm the oil light comes on at a stop. Replaced the iac valve, not really sure what else to do before replacing the engine. I've brought it in to two different shops and they all pretty much said that they don't want to figure it out. They check the oil pressure and then start with the, it might be this or that.

Last ditch effort before i replace the dang engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,192 Posts
When did you last check your plugs, wires and change the oil. Is the oil level correct?? Oil light is correct or just comes on? Air filter is new? Hard to guess with the limited info.
 

·
Cake monster
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
I would be hesitant to suggest that your engine is worn internally, as someone had similar issues to this a little while back and fixed it without touching the engine. You should understand that the oil light is probably indicating that you have low oil pressure, if you had a pressure test done then you need to know the results of that test. Does the light flicker or go steady?

The garages are probably terrified of that oil light being on, they know it could mean big trouble.

I'm going to assume that you have a Vulcan, you need to check the Camshaft Synchronizer for being bad. That might be some of your issue, do you have a squeak on the drivers side of the engine? You should at least pull and inspect it.

It's always possible that someone let the syncro shear somewhat, and that lead to the bottom end being prematurely worn causing the oil light when warm, it's more apparent when the RPMs are below the norm.

As already mentioned, you'll need to give us any engine codes for help in diagnosing the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Listen to JW above.

I just fixed my oil pressure light, but to do so I ended up testing it myself. On the vulcan engine, it's not hard to do and if you need some pictures of where the sensor is, I can get them to you.

I actually have the $25 oil pressure gauge from Autozone. The parts stores do not 'rent' one out because a little oil will get into the line. Hooking up one of these gauges is the only real way to tell what your oil pressure is within the engine.

Here are some specs: The oil pressure light will start to come on (aka flicker) at 6 psi. A properly maintained engine will hold 40-60 psi of pressure at 2500 RPM. If the pressure is not being maintained it is one of the following (or combination)
- Camshaft Synchro is failing, and failing to drive the oil pump
- Oil pump is failing
- Rod Bearings that connect the push rod to the camshaft (or crankshaft I can never remember) are worn and allowing oil to seep out of them (thus not maintaining pressure)

I have only learned all this from the forums here.

As for your rough idle, if no codes are thrown there are a few things to check.

As mentioned before, spark plugs could be shot or a vacuum leak could be present. Plug wires could have a short in them, and causing an arch (although those two usually throw a code). The throttle body may be gunked up. The Idler Air Contol (IAC) could need a cleaning (or replacement). And last, fuel injectors could need replacement.

There is a great deal to look at but tackling them one at a time, you can surely fix this yourself. I manage to replace the Camshaft Synchro and Oil Pressure switch within 2 hours (start to finish). The parts cost me just over $100.

Write back and let us know!
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top