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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I am starting to have a rough idle in the morning at startup.

RPM at 1200-1300, can feel the car shaking a little.
When I accelerate, it smooths out till it idles then same.
Shut car off and it disappears.
Today, is the first time it had problems starting back up.

Earlier, had a few time misfire in cylinder 5, but that hasn't popped back up since I replace the battery at least 3 weeks ago.

I did a search and found that it could be spark plugs, wires, or coil.

Anything else I should look for?
 

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Those are the three I would start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, before I change out the plugs and wires I ran a can of seafoam. I didn't get much smoke at all, maybe lasted for 10-20 seconds if that long at all. What is strange about the lack of smoke is the car is 147,000 miles old. I ran 2/3 of a can through (1/3 at a time) and am a bit dumbfounded by the lack of carbon (parents didn't do a lot of the maintenance).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyways, Replaced the spark plugs and wires and drove it today without the rough start idle. Looks like the wire insulation on cyl. 2 (I think, center cyl., closest to firewall.) was starting to melt off, possible hitting a metal pipe.

While finishing that, found myself 2 new problems. Oil dipstick pull ring is missing, looks to have been knocked off and coolant is leaking from somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, after spending a day with the help of Rudy, it settled down... For about 2 days... Took it to the stealership, told them the problem, what was done, and what was thought to be the problem. Ignition Coil Pack and needs a new fuel filter. $447.00 for the coil pack...... I am going to pick up the car (after paying the $106 diagnostic fee) and do both myself for 1/4 that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
New problem. Replaced coil with Duralast coil (no one had Motorcraft), start it up, clicking noise coming from I think the valve cover. Shut it off, recheck everything, restart, still making that noise. Let it idle for a bit, noise disappears. Ran it down the street a block, shut it off, noise came back for 2-3 seconds, then normal. Did it again this morning.

The noise is repeating evenly (can time it, sounds like a card in the spokes of a bike hitting).

Going to put back on the old coil and see if it is because of that or something else.
 

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QUOTE (Sorian @ Jul 8 2009, 11:12 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=738087
Should I be worrying over this new noise? or is it normal with a new coil till a few more miles are on it?[/b]
Sounds like a sticking lifter or out of balance rocker.

A coil shouldn't cause that issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
QUOTE (Mediarocker @ Jul 8 2009, 11:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=738095
QUOTE (Sorian @ Jul 8 2009, 11:12 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=738087
Should I be worrying over this new noise? or is it normal with a new coil till a few more miles are on it?[/b]
Sounds like a sticking lifter or out of balance rocker.

A coil shouldn't cause that issue.
[/b][/quote]

Reason I think it has something to do with the coil is it never did this till it got replaced, and didn't happen when I put the old coil back on.

Like, maybe the computer has to learn this new part since it has a higher spark then the old one.... I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I wish that was true on mine, its new plugs with less then 200 miles on them.

Code came back today.

Cold engine, high idle rpm (under 1500), can feel shaking in park, worse if in gear. Everything goes back to normal after 20 seconds and code pops up.

New plugs, wires, coil pack, fuel filter.

I have a scan tool that Rudy has let me barrow for 2 weeks, I will post of the freeze report in a few minutes after I make sure everything at work is running OK.
 

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There are a few things going on here. I will state them in the order i would check them

1st--Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
2nd-Partially stuck open injector allowing excess fuel to seep into the cylinder after it sits.
3rd-Cracked Head that is allowing coolant to get into the cylinder while the car is sitting.


I would check what i just listed in the order that i have listed.


This is a Vulcan and from my experience i am betting you have problem number 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just got the call from the dealership, yes water is getting into the cylinder. His tech is saying the engine was ran hot (even tho I have never ran it hot, temp never got past halfway). Only had coolant lose once due to hose braking and was fixed same day.

Said that if he was to keep the car, he would buy a new engine at $3k and comes with warranty. Recommended against replacing head because it could kill the bottom end of motor.

Also said that, even tho water is getting in, I can still use the car till funds come in to replace the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update on my car:

It has been at a local shop for a week now, they pulled the head and sent it to the machine shop. Confirmed a small crack in the head that is "more then likely repairable". They did a pressure test before puling the head from the expansion tank and found that "exhaust gas" was being pushed in. Still don't have an exact date as to when I am getting my car back or the cost, but making a good guess at $1k - $1.5k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Final update:

Got my car back on Friday. Head has been fixed, might have been damage by blown gasket, which could have been caused by parent's failing to properly maintain car for the several years they owned it.

The heads got magnaflux, cleaned, valve job and installed exhaust seat on one. Apparently the spark plug on 5 died from heat damage, and they replaced the egr tube.

Grand total: $2005.26

Despite the higher cost ($1587 was labor alone), I am glad to have my car back and probably better then it has been for a while.
 
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