Rotor Question
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Go to PlanetPerformance.com they've got both BAER & EBC rotors. Prices aren't bad. Be sure to get new Pads when you R&R the rotors too! I've got BAERs on the rear of my car(98SE) & EBC on the front w/HAWK pads all around! Stops GREAT!!!!!
You should never have to machine new rotors. If you do find that you have excessive lateral run out.... I suggest you return the $5 rotors and get the $30 ones. :lol: Raybestos has very good brake products IMO. Some of their stuff is D3EA certified meaning they will have as good as or better performance than OEM. Which is something very few manufacturers of brake products do. So be sure you get a decent quality brand and do not cut the new rotors.
Well I thing I have to buy rotors for my car, probably perfomance ones. When I press the brake in the car it feels like you are in an earthquake, they vibrate so much. Probably the wheels has to do with this since I have P235/55R16 in the whole car, so the wheel are bigger than the one it is suppose to go there and therefore they touch the front fenderwell when I make the turn. According to this, I may need rotors though ... what do you think?
Frank.
Frank.
okay. that's what i needed to know. someone told me i would have to have them turned "just incase" but i thought if they're not true to begin with then they're defective. just wanted to get your guys' opinions though.
thanks again for the info.
thanks again for the info.
They could be turned "just in case", but it would be a pretty silly thing to do. First of all, they make rotors pretty thin these days, you usually can't even turn them once because then they would be too thin. Also when you turn them, it takes metal off the rotors and they're more likely to warp.
The cost of rotors for our cars are so cheap, it doesn't really make sense to get the old rotors turned and risk them warping in a few months anyway. With that in mind, there'd be absolutely no reason you would ever want to turn new ones that are supposed to be good. Just return them as a warranty item if they're bad.
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405 Posts
Sounds like the rotors could be warped, but the tires have nothing to do with it. Could also be bad pads. You could have those rotors checked and see if they could be turned, or just buy new ones. I would also get new pads while you are at it.
You don't need "performance" rotors. I have gone through many sets of regular old Aimco rotors from AutoZone, including track days. Plus, I get them all turned at least once, and always have a cleanup turning done when I change pads.
Through four SHOs in fifteen years, I have never had a warped rotor, and I have been getting my rotors turned. Standard rotors work fine, and the expensive ones will warp as quickly as the cheaper ones (as SHO folks have found over the years).
A couple suggestions for doing brake jobs -
1- make sure you use sandpaper/wire brush to remove all the rust buildup on the face of the hub, or you'll end up with a vibration afterwards, since the rotor won't sit true to the hub. Also, put a coating of anti-sieze on the hub before you put the rotor on to help prevent rust buildup in the future (but don't put anti-sieze on the wheel studs - yes, it does make them easier to remove, but it can also allow them to inadvertently loosen while you're driving).
2- clean the rust off the lands where the pads/shoes sit, and put a coating of anti-sieze on them to keep the pads/shoes moving freely and not squeaking. This also helps prevent those annoying grooves from forming where the pads tend to ride and wear in.
3- DO NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE ON SLIDE PINS WITH RUBBER BOOTS!!! Anti-sieze reacts with the rubber and causes it to swell, so the boot will eventually soften and fit poorly, allowing moisture into the slide pin and bore, siezing it up. Use a white lithium grease, or even better, silicone dielectric compound (which is what we use at the dealer). If your slide pin boots are already getting mushy, i'd recommend getting new ones - the kits are available aftermarket or from the dealer.
4- all Taurii rotors and drums I've ever seen from the factory, and even aftermarket replacements, can usually be machined at least once when they become warped or scored, depending on the degree of warpage or scoring. I only replace my rotors/drums when there is no longer enough material left to machine them properly. True, once you machine them, they are thinner, so they can warp easier, but that's usually under a lot of heavy braking. Normal driving usually doesn't cause excessive/premature warpage.
5- one more thing - it's a good idea to flush the brake fluid out every couple years or 40,000 kms, give or take. Brake fluid does break down, and it also absorbs moisture. Old fluid has a lower boiling point than new fluid because it will have moisture in it, and this moisture will also help rot out steel brake lines, calipers and wheel cylinders from the inside. We do brake flushes at the dealer all the time, and it's well worth it. Just remember, use the right fluid - all Taurii made to date use DOT 3. You can subtitute DOT 4 if you want, which has a higher boiling point. You CANNOT use DOT 5 - it is purple, and silicone based, and if you put any in your brake system, every bit of rubber will be ruined.
Hope this helps.
1- make sure you use sandpaper/wire brush to remove all the rust buildup on the face of the hub, or you'll end up with a vibration afterwards, since the rotor won't sit true to the hub. Also, put a coating of anti-sieze on the hub before you put the rotor on to help prevent rust buildup in the future (but don't put anti-sieze on the wheel studs - yes, it does make them easier to remove, but it can also allow them to inadvertently loosen while you're driving).
2- clean the rust off the lands where the pads/shoes sit, and put a coating of anti-sieze on them to keep the pads/shoes moving freely and not squeaking. This also helps prevent those annoying grooves from forming where the pads tend to ride and wear in.
3- DO NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE ON SLIDE PINS WITH RUBBER BOOTS!!! Anti-sieze reacts with the rubber and causes it to swell, so the boot will eventually soften and fit poorly, allowing moisture into the slide pin and bore, siezing it up. Use a white lithium grease, or even better, silicone dielectric compound (which is what we use at the dealer). If your slide pin boots are already getting mushy, i'd recommend getting new ones - the kits are available aftermarket or from the dealer.
4- all Taurii rotors and drums I've ever seen from the factory, and even aftermarket replacements, can usually be machined at least once when they become warped or scored, depending on the degree of warpage or scoring. I only replace my rotors/drums when there is no longer enough material left to machine them properly. True, once you machine them, they are thinner, so they can warp easier, but that's usually under a lot of heavy braking. Normal driving usually doesn't cause excessive/premature warpage.
5- one more thing - it's a good idea to flush the brake fluid out every couple years or 40,000 kms, give or take. Brake fluid does break down, and it also absorbs moisture. Old fluid has a lower boiling point than new fluid because it will have moisture in it, and this moisture will also help rot out steel brake lines, calipers and wheel cylinders from the inside. We do brake flushes at the dealer all the time, and it's well worth it. Just remember, use the right fluid - all Taurii made to date use DOT 3. You can subtitute DOT 4 if you want, which has a higher boiling point. You CANNOT use DOT 5 - it is purple, and silicone based, and if you put any in your brake system, every bit of rubber will be ruined.
Hope this helps.
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405 Posts
Use dielectric grease on the slider pins. A decent-sized tube is a few bucks at any car parts store. It's also good for all of the connectors on the car.
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15,578 Posts
I bought all new rotors at a local shop last year, and I think they were $25 each for the front and $28 each for the rear. It's definitely worth it to just buy new ones if they're pretty old. I've put 20K on my new ones, and I think I'm going to turn the front ones this weekend.
JR
JR
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405 Posts
For the '96 brake upgrade-size rotor (11.3 ?), they are $36 at AZ in this area. I've heard that in other areas, the price is down in the $25 range.
Overall, really pretty cheap, but if the current rotors don't have deep grooves, spending $10-20 to get the pair turned is cost-effective.
Also helps if you have a spare set of rotors handy, which I always try to do. That way, I have a good set ready to go whenever needed.
Overall, really pretty cheap, but if the current rotors don't have deep grooves, spending $10-20 to get the pair turned is cost-effective.
Also helps if you have a spare set of rotors handy, which I always try to do. That way, I have a good set ready to go whenever needed.
Well I'll probably buy rotors at Auto Zone. According to this I want to put upgrade my brakes with the one that comes in the G.3 SHO. Do you know if I swap the 11.6 rotors from the SHO will work with the caliper from my car? or do I need to get caliper too? Thanks in advance.
Frank
Frank
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405 Posts
Same calipers, you just need the cailiper brackets for the 11.6" rotors, and then get the 598-size pads.
Josh at SHO Nut has the brackets:
http://www.shonutperformance.com/
new, for about $108 for the pair, but you may find some on the SHO Forum classifieds, or Ebay.
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