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I picked up a '99 Taurus at auction this past weekend. As I expected, it needs a little brake work. I've never owned or worked on a Taurus before, so I thought that I'd get a little advice first.

I pulled a front wheel off last night, and decided that I do want to replace the pads and rotors. I notice that the postings here so far that address rotor removal usually indicate that the rotor will slide off after removal of the caliper and any retaining clips on the lugs (maybe with a few mallet strikes)--no mention of a large nut that must be removed first.

Here's my simple question: Do I first need to remove the large nut (1 1/8 to 1 1/4 in size) on the shaft which supports the rotor. I didn't look really closely last night, but it sure seemed like that nut has to be removed first, yet nobody mentions it. Maybe it's too obvious to mention, or it's not necessary to remove the nut. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Nope. Once you remove the caliper and the caliper mount, it will come off. I just did a brake job a few weeks ago. I had to "persuade" my rotors to come off with a rubber mallet, :D striking in different locations around the back of the rotor so as not to get it into a bind. Patience, padawan.
 

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If the rotor has not been removed previously there may be two or three thin steel "nuts" holding each in place. They will need to be removed before the rotor comes off. Use pliers or wire cutters. No need to replace them.

The big nut in the center holds the hub and axle together (this added for explanation)
 

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the large nut actualy holds the axcel to the front hub. so don't remove it.

try taking a PADDED pry bar inbetween the front suspension and the rotor.
 
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"Axle" not Axcel...lol Yeah, but as crackhead stated, the nut holds the Axle onto the Hub/Steering Knuckle.

Sal
 

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Rubber mallet? You guys are too nice. If you aren't saving the rotors to machine, get a big damned hammer and beat the buggers off! As they say, if it won't go, get a bigger hammer. LOL. Actually, the impact from a steel hammer will loosen them much more effectively than a dampened blow from a rubber mallet. As long as you're careful not to hit anything important, hit the rotor from the back to break it loose. If you have a torch, heat around the hat (centre of the rotor that sits on hub), all around the wheel studs and the hub. The heat will help loosen it from the rust. Once it's off, use a wire wheel or sandpaper to remove as much of the rust as possible from the hub face (and if you're saving the rotors, clean up the inside mounting surfaces of them as well). Removing the rust will keep the rotor sitting truer to the surface of the hub, preventing brake vibration. And put some anti-sieze on the hub face before you put the rotor back on - this'll slow down the corrosion process so they won't be as hard to remove next time. And for those of you who i know will probably tell me that my process will damage the hub - i've never warped a hub or damaged a wheel bearing yet because of this, nor have any of the other techs i've worked with. Myself and others have actually had to wail on rotors (usually on trucks) so hard that the disc eventually breaks from the hat before it will come off, and even still, the hub was never hurt.
 
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