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My mechanic put on fairly cheap (CDN$40) UAP-Napa front rotors on my 99SE about a year ago, they seemed to warp pretty quick, had them turned in Sep, after a couple of thousand kms they are wickedly warped again. My 94GL is still running with some (just checked the old bill, CDN$80 rotors, seems a little steep looking back, but may have been worth it) from Cdn Tire put on 140K km ago, not sure of the brand, but may check back with them. Any suggestions for a durable rotor brand? Pads were not changed when the rotors were put on the 99SE, could they be causing the rapid warping?
 
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I've had the best luck with Autozone (Aimco I think) rotors, and their $15 pads. I know it sounds weird, being cheap and all, but they have yet to warp and I put them on last year. (About 20k miles)
 

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On the last brake job I did on the '93 I used the cheap Autozone rotors and $15 Albany pads Bob mentioned. One year and about 12,000 miles later, I was getting significant pulsation. I am glad Bob had better luck though. Maybe there's a difference between the ones made for gen 2's and gen 3's.

Last Spring I put some more cheapie Autozone rotors on my '99 (Valuecraft I think), but this time I put on the $40 Performance Friction pads they sell. I really like the way the car stops with this setup compared to the oem pads. About 7 months and no pulsation yet. I am crossing my fingers. If you do it yourself though servicing your brakes is pretty cheap, so even if I only get a year out of my rotors I don't mind too much. Gives me a chance to look everything over real well.
 

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The deal with the Gen III's is that they are really heavy, and the front brakes do most of the work. I bought EBC slotted and dimpled rotors for about $120/pair from Tire Rack, and they are incredible. stopping power is much better, and theyv'e been on about six mos. now with no warping at all. In the year prior to putting them on, I had new rotors put on, and they had to be turned once. They do make a slight ticking sound as they go down the highway, but i think that's just part of having dimpled rotors.
 

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the thing with cheap rotors is that they aren't cooled properly when they are made like a name brand. the name brand rotors are air cooled then sprayed with water vs. the cheap ones that are just dipped in water and that's it.
 

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Pads are very important. High quality pads should absorb some of the heat from rotors thus help to rotor cool down. If you have cheap rotor and cheap pad, dude, you have a nice recipe for warpage. However, if you have good pads you may have chance. I pay extreme attention not to buy anything made in china. But sometimes you have to. Rotors should be from Canada, US (in our dreams) or from south american countries but not from far asia.
 
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Originally posted by dIESEL600@Dec 8 2003, 11:17 PM
Performance Friction pads .
Are those the Carbon Metallic pads? The one thing I do experience is brake fade (only if I'm really on the brakes though) and I'm told that these do not fade as fast, but have a firmer pedal feel. I'd like to know more about these. Soon, the car will be upgraded to SHO rotors and better pads (for ROTB 2k4 when I whoop Doc's [email protected]#), but I'd like to get something a little better until that point.
 
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I'm using raybestos pg plus rotors. They seem to be doing the job well, I haven't "really" tested them yet.

When I had my mechanic install them, he told me it always cuts new rotors because they are always off by a couple hundredths. He calls me up a couple hours later and is like, these are the first rotors I've seen which were 100% true. Dont know if thats a good thing for me or bad on him, but you decide.
 

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Originally posted by mikehawk@Dec 9 2003, 09:02 PM
I use cheap rotors, but haven't had any warping issues since Paul (SHOZ123) posted that article on how to properly break in new pads.

That, and I try to torque the lug nuts about as even as I can by feel.
Bingo. Without proper break-in and proper torquing of the lug nuts, it's a crapshoot.

And everytime I have heard of someone turning down (cutting) a pair of warped rotors, they have warped on them again. The reason is in the metallurgy (unless of course they were installed/broken-in improperly.) You can cut them down true, but the grain of the metal is untrue from the warpage, so they are likely to warp again.

There are an awful lot of SHO guys that do occasional autocross (=hell on brakes) that have had good results from the cheapo rotors. That's not to say that the more expensive rotors aren't any better--just that you CAN work the cheap ones pretty hard without warpage if you know what you are doing.
 

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Originally posted by Bob Gervais+Dec 10 2003, 12:03 PM-->QUOTE (Bob Gervais @ Dec 10 2003, 12:03 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-dIESEL600
@Dec 8 2003, 11:17 PM

Performance Friction pads .
Are those the Carbon Metallic pads? The one thing I do experience is brake fade (only if I'm really on the brakes though) and I'm told that these do not fade as fast, but have a firmer pedal feel. I'd like to know more about these. Soon, the car will be upgraded to SHO rotors and better pads (for ROTB 2k4 when I whoop Doc's [email protected]#), but I'd like to get something a little better until that point. [/b]
Yes Bob those are carbon metellic. I thought they were like $40 but they list now at $30.99 (I think the $40 ones were for our Blazer). I can't really tell you how good they are when it comes to fade, because I rarely ever drive hard enough to make crappy brakes even fade. What I really like about them though is that they make the brakes feel much more progressive IMO.

IIRC there was a thread a long time ago about someone who put Performance Friction pads on and thought the pads had scored their rotors. I think these pads are pretty abrasive, they will make visible circular lines in your rotors, but I haven't felt any significant scoring. I'll post a pic ot two when I get a chance.
 

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Originally posted by dIESEL600@Dec 10 2003, 02:53 PM
IIRC there was a thread a long time ago about someone who put Performance Friction pads on and thought the pads had scored their rotors. I think these pads are pretty abrasive, they will make visible circular lines in your rotors, but I haven't felt any significant scoring. I'll post a pic ot two when I get a chance.
Here's a pic of what I was talking about. Like I said the lines don't really feel like anything, so don't let this disuade you from using these pads.

 
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Looks like normal wear to me. My rotors look like that too, with the Cardboard Metallics (
) installed. Heck, at $31 it's worth a try!
 

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Originally posted by Bob Gervais@Dec 10 2003, 12:03 PM
[and I'm told that these do not fade as fast, but have a firmer pedal feel.
A very good investment to eliminate fade is S.S. hoses to replace the rubber ones.
well worth the price when at the track
 

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Originally posted by mikehawk@Dec 9 2003, 10:02 PM
I use cheap rotors, but haven't had any warping issues since Paul (SHOZ123) posted that article on how to properly break in new pads.
Where can I find Paul's article? Soundls like something everyone should read.
 

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I dunno what rotors i had... when i go my gen 3 (96 gl) abt a yr back. First thing i did was do the front brake at tire plus (in ohio).

they re-surfaced the rotor, and put in wagner pads.. charged me abt 90 bucks.
Good till now. no scoring, no pulsations. pretty decent braking. but ya i am a tame driver.

no clue if Wagner is a good brand/bad brand.
 

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Originally posted by sundarpn@Dec 13 2003, 12:14 AM
nobody heard of wagner..
  so that tireplus put some crap in my taurii..
I wouldn't sweat it. Wagner is not the cheapest of the cheap, but it is what you would consider to be a "basic" or "modest"... OK, "cheap" rotor. But, like I said before, there are guys in the V8SHO community that use the Aimco (cheaper than Wagner, IIRC) rotors in autocross outings and have had no problems with warpage. Sure, they're no Eradispeeds, but they do the job if you install them right.
 
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