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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to install a new strut in the front of my car. The old one came out very easily. It was a joy to remove.

However, no matter how I try to get the new one in it simply won't go in.

So I measured both of them. The Ford factory strut is 19 inches long. The replacement strut is 22 inches long.

According to the Monroe website this is the correct strut, but how can it be? There's no way I'm going to get another 3 inches of travel on the knuckle.

I've posted a link to the strut that was sent to me below, but is there a way I can order a strut according to the strut length?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047DDCBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Three inches is a lot longer than I would expect. I know that the Monroe struts I used were longer and I had to use a six foot pipe/bar in the hole of the lower control arm and some help to push it down to get the knuckle low enough to fit the strut. Some people drop the subframe an inch to get them in. Those struts are the Econo struts and are pretty bouncy in ride quality. How about side by side pics of the struts. If it is three inches longer than the OEM from the mount point it will hit the half shaft. Maybe the OEM spring has just collapsed by that much.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Some people drop the subframe an inch to get them in.
One reason why I'm so disappointed is that I did drop the subframe.

The number stamped the strut is 81615. Looking at them side by side I don't see the mounting holes aligned.

Part number 171615 appears to be a little shorter in length.
 

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You are comparing a strut with no spring to one that has a brand new spring. Looks like the actual strut part is the same. How close are you to getting it into the knuckle?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The brake line is extended as far as it will go and I still need another 2 - 3 inches. Maybe a little more.

According to the Monroe website the 171615 is a few inches shorter than the 181615.
 

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The brake line is extended as far as it will go and I still need another 2 - 3 inches. Maybe a little more.

According to the Monroe website the 171615 is a few inches shorter than the 181615.

RockAuto lists both of those numbers the 171615 is the heavier duty that then 181615.


Are you tilting the knuckle out and the strut also to engage the strut in the hole? I didn't tighten the three mount nuts until last. Once the strut goes in the hole you have more room.
 

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I've got a couple used FoMoCo original front struts off a 90K mile Taurus sitting in the garage and they measure about 22" to the brg plate.

You might try removing the control arm bolts and pulling it out a little so it will drop down another inch or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone know how long the subframe bolts are? What is the maximum that I can unscrew them?
 

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Does anyone know how long the subframe bolts are? What is the maximum that I can unscrew them?
When lowering the sub, you need a jack under it, not using the bolts. I have dropped 2" with a jack and no harm to wires/hoses and such.


How long a strut is extended is a variable depending on how the use the extended bouncer. Spring or rubber inside the strut. When the assembled unit is extended, it is not fully extended, just to where the inside snubber lands.
See pic. A piece of pipe can add some movement for engagement.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you for providing that picture, however it wouldn't work in my situation because the bottom of the strut is around 2 - 3 inches below the bottom of the knuckle.

It cannot align with the entrance hole of the knuckle (on top).
 

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I had to tilt the knuckle out quite a bit and also the strut. I also tried to use a spring compressor to shorten the strut for installation. It didn't seem to work since there isn't that many coils to compress. I used that method on the back struts to change the top mount and spring without having to loosen the pinch bolt. I had to modify my spring compressor so the tightening nut was on the bottom versus the top. I made a extra deep well socket to use on my modified compressor.


Don't know if you saw this video>


https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=taurus+strut+installation+tool#kpvalbx=1
 

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The bolts are about five inches long but my guess that two inches are not engaged but are taken up by the rubber mounts. You shouldn't be lowering the subframe without the jack under it.
When I buy a used Bull: I will pull out each sub bolt and grease the shank. If it is rusty as the one in the pic, I replace it with a JY bolt in good condition. Not gonna have one rust in two or twist off on mine. I also lower the sub for Alt install on DOHC. Lowering the sub is a fairly simple operation.


-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #18
In the official Monroe installation video for this car they suggest to raise and lower the sub frame via the subframe itself, instead of holding the subframe in place with jack stands and raising the car body.

I know they basically achieve the same thing, but isn't it more dangerous to raise and lower the subframe itself?
 

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I might suggest using a pittman arm remover, separate the ball joint from the knuckle, slide the strut into position, and carefully pry the control arm down with 6' bar or pipe and insert the ball joint stud into control arm. Don't cut the ball joint boot in the process.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/parts-puller-installer/oem-pitman-arm-puller-screw-type/555623_0_0
I would consider this a last resort. I am on Bull #7 & #8, have maintained 2 for family, and had 5 Lin Cont so I have done a few. You can pull factory install BJ ok, but if a shop has had one off, then expect severe over tightened stud. I have the puller, but had to cut the stud, use heat and a sledge hammer and fail to get the stud out.
-chart-
 
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