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I'm going to be installing a new IAC motor tommorow and know that i have to reset the computer, if this is done by disconnecting the battery, how / what / how long? Will this rid my car of the service engine light that turned on when the IAC motor started having its problems?
 
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I waited 5 mins for mine. After you reconnect the battery, start the car, let it warm up, turn on the accessories that you use the most, ie radio but leave the a/c off. After it is warmed up, wait a minute, then turn the a/c on for a minute. That should be it.
 

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Originally posted by Alex_Perry@Jan 3 2004, 01:57 AM
unplug the negative batt cable for 30-45 mins.
step on the brake for about 1 min. (this drains the EEC)
come back, reattach neg. batt. cable
start car. turn on all accessories, turn the wheels both ways, a/c, apply all the load possible to engine. this will teach the IAC motor.
Good advice, but I think takes a little bit more than that for the computer to completely relearn idle strategy:

Idle Air Trim

Idle Air Trim is designed to adjust the Idle Air Control (IAC) calibration to correct for wear and aging of components. When engine conditions meet the learning requirement, the strategy monitors the engine and determines the values required for ideal idle calibration. The Idle Air Trim values are stored in a table for reference. This table is used by the PCM as a correction factor when controlling idle speed. The table is stored in Keep Alive Random Access Memory (RAM) and retains the learned values even after the engine is shut off. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is output to indicate that the Idle Air Trim has reached its learning limits.

Whenever an IAC component is replaced or cleaned or a service affecting idle is performed, it is recommended that Keep Alive RAM be cleared. This is necessary so the idle strategy does not use the previously learned Idle Air Trim values.

To clear Keep Alive RAM, refer to «PCM Reset» in Section 2A. It is important to note that erasing DTCs with a scan tool does not reset the Idle Air Trim table.

Once Keep Alive RAM has been reset, the engine must idle for 15 minutes (actual time varies between strategies) to learn new idle air trim values. Idle quality will improve as the strategy adapts. Adaptation occurs in four separate modes. The modes are shown in the following table.

Transmission - Air Conditioning Mode

NEUTRAL - A/C ON

NEUTRAL - A/C OFF

DRIVE - A/C ON

DRIVE - A/C OFF
 
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Damn, I guess you learn something new every day. I just learned that our cars have monitors, etc. Once you reset the computer all monitors will be reset and have specific drive cycles until they are complete.

Here's the details:

QUOTE
The following conditions must occur to complete all OBD II monitors and components.

-- The Misfire, Comprehensive Component, and Fuel Monitors are checked continuously from engine warm-up and can complete any time.

-- The Misfire Monitor on applications with fuel deceleration shut-off requires a deceleration at closed throttle for 10 seconds following the acceleration to 55 mph at one quarter to one half throttle. Decelerations following an acceleration must be performed twice consecutively (or three consecutively on some truck applications) to satisfy this misfire requirement.

-- A transmission component functional verification in the Comprehensive Component Monitor requires at least 6 complete stops in the normal city portion of the drive cycle.

-- The EGR and Secondary Air Injection Monitors require a series of idles and accelerations.

-- The HO2S Monitor requires a steady speed drive for approximately 1 minute at 30 to 40 mph.

-- The Secondary Air Injection Monitor requires almost 12 minutes of vehicle operating time from initial start-up.

-- The Catalyst Efficiency Monitor requires a steady speed drive for 5 minutes at 40 to 60 mph, followed by a normal city drive between 25 and 40 mph for 10 minutes.

-- The Evaporative Emission Monitor requires at least 3 minutes of the steady throttle part of the drive cycle (10 minutes) between 45 to 60 mph to test the evaporative system.[/b]
This is if you want to reset the computer and get the car to re-learn everything asap.
 

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Just wondering.....I I disconnect the negative terminal of the battery while I install an aftermarket CD radio in dash........will my '03 SE "forget" how to idle properly when I start it up? Or, will it just have to relearn the "best" shift points for the tranmission?
 

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There is no need to reset the PCM when bypassing the AC, installing a new IAC, etc. The PCM will quickly learn to correct for new parts, etc.
 
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There is no need to reset the PCM when bypassing the AC, installing a new IAC, etc. The PCM will quickly learn to correct for new parts, etc.
But making the PCM forget it's memory makes it fun to drive when the car does not know how to idle or know how you want your tranny to shift.
Or not be ready for inspection.
As for me, I prefer simple. I use a "keep alive battery" when replacing the battery in the car so it is happy and ready for inspection. I have changed IAC and TPS and the car does not know the difference. The car self sets "idle stop position" on the TPS when your start unless you push the pedal down when starting, then it reverts to it's last base.

I need to replace the battery in the Taurus so I need to make a new "keep alive" wire.

-chart-
 

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The electrical system in my 05 Tec has been powered up continuously since I bought it in 2006. I have a 12 V 5 A computer grade power supply (pure DC, well regulated) I use to keep the electrical system powered up if I have to disconnect / remove the battery for any reason. Same for my Tbirds..... the 86 5.0's electrical system has been continuously powered up for over 30 years and the 88 Turbocoupe's electrical system has been continuously powered up for the last 19 years. Wife's 06 Vulcan has been continuously powered up since we bought it 3 years ago, and my 95 Vulcan winter beater has been continuously powered up since I got it in 2010.
 

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The electrical system in my 05 Tec has been powered up continuously since I bought it in 2006. I have a 12 V 5 A computer grade power supply (pure DC, well regulated) I use to keep the electrical system powered up if I have to disconnect / remove the battery for any reason. Same for my Tbirds..... the 86 5.0's electrical system has been continuously powered up for over 30 years and the 88 Turbocoupe's electrical system has been continuously powered up for the last 19 years. Wife's 06 Vulcan has been continuously powered up since we bought it 3 years ago, and my 95 Vulcan winter beater has been continuously powered up since I got it in 2010.
You must not let your batteries run down or go bad.
I try to replace the battery by no more than 4 years.
When I bought my '03 Sable few years back, home and next day, battery down and hood latch frozen. I charged it through the power port to get it running and warmed up. New battery but the EATC lost it's memory. Had to read up on how to do that one. Good help here.

As to keep alive for battery replacement, I trick the door latch so minimum draw during the keep alive. Plug my keep alive in the power port.

-chart-
 

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I go thru batteries in all the cars every 4 years or so. I use my 12 V 5 A supply to keep the electrical system powered up during battery changes, battery cable and battery terminal cleaning etc.

My 12 V 5 A switching supply puts out enough amps to power the dome lights, PCM KAM, etc during battery replacement and or terminal cleaning.
 

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T thank u am having diagnostic done tomorrow hope i dont get taken iam a female senior at that and have been taken advantage of in the past
 

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Download Forscan for free (Google Forscan) and buy a good quality ELM327 OBDII adapter from Amazon or Ebay for around $25 and you will be able to see all 4 classes of codes (P, C, B and U series), view and graph PIDs, etc. and you will be able to run your own diagnostics. We are here to help you with code meanings, probable causes and repairs.
 

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Thanks blown fuse idle trim now set had diagnostic said a part in my rear wheel for abs lite wont turn off part cost$65.00 but labor is over$200
Light has been on past yr.also traction light wont give me copy of diagnostic paper or trouble codes dont no what i should do
 

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Only part I can imagine failing is one of the rear ABS wheel sensors. Replacing it should be a 20 minute job at the most. Probably can get one from Rock Auto for half the inflated dealer cost.

IMO, you paid for a diagnostic and you should get a copy of the report.

Fuses dont blow for no reason. You may be back in the same situation again when the intermittent short that caused the fuse to blow rears its ugly head again.
 

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Only part I can imagine failing is one of the rear ABS wheel sensors. Replacing it should be a 20 minute job at the most. Probably can get one from Rock Auto for half the inflated dealer cost.

IMO, you paid for a diagnostic and you should get a copy of the report.

Fuses dont blow for no reason. You may be back in the same situation again when the intermittent short that caused the fuse to blow rears its ugly head again.
Wheel sensor will not blow a fuse. Just make the ABS not work. The ABS modules are prone to fail. Been there. Common in many brands of cars. Likely way a fuse might blow is the motor which draws lots of power and the wires are exposed on the bottom. Module fail will set a red brake light and likely the amber light. On mine the amber light was killed by the bad module.

-chart-
 
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