Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1992 Sable LS wagon with the 3.8L V6. I want to change the spark plugs and wires. I can follow instructions but so far I have not found any.

Does anyone know where I could find well written instructions for this job?

If there are no instructions, everyone chime in. I will do the job and then write the instructions. It's what I do all day long for a major industrial manufacturer (non-automotive).

Thanks for the help,

Neal Lewis
[email protected]
P.S. I will also include pictures of each step. WNL
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,065 Posts
I pulled the throttle body and the black plastic shield on the firewall when I did mine. I don't think that's a necessity but it made it easy enough.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,922 Posts
I just removed the plastic shield on the firewall and the U-shaped intake hose. Then I crawled on top of the engine and felt around. You can't see what you're doing, you have to do it by touch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,447 Posts
I just replaced my plugs, wires, rotor & dist cap this fall.

The back 3 plugs on the 3.8L are a challange, but doable with some forethought, patience, removing a couple of things & mounting the engine, especially to remove #1 plug.

I removed the air intake tube, but not the firewall plastic trim piece, as all my fastners didn't want to easily come loose, so I just left it on & made do. As has been said, removing it would make things easier.

I also found it was easier to go after #1 plug, by using a ratcheting box end wrench, on the end of my my spark plug socket, rather than hooking a 3/8 ratchet directly to the spark plug socket.

If you don't have a ratcheting box end wrench, you could also use a box end wrench on the end of the plug socket, for extra leveage if needed, to break the #1 plug loose if needed.

I found it easier to mount the engine & use my left hand going down beside the distributor with the wrench. you have plenty of room to work a wrench back there.

#2 plug is a little tight to get too also, but #3 isn't too bad.

A 1/4 inch drive ratcheting torque wrench is nice to have in those tight spaces, to properly tighten up the plugs. The local Harbor Freight had one on sale for $19 bucks.

The front three 4/5/6 aren't bad at all, just remove the plactic trim piece atop the radiator, that covers the relays, but remember to unhook the B- battery cable before begining the job.

If your replacing the plug wires also I had more problems trying to remove the back two wire looms off their mounting studs than anything else. The loom at the corner where #1 plug is, never came off, so I had to open it while mounting the engine & standing on my head & loudly praising the Ford desgner that thought that puppy up!!!!! lol

If you do plug wires, do one at a time & match the new plug wires length to the old one & route the new wire exactally like the old one & use all the wire looms

l also take the time to butter a light coating of Dow Corning, or GE silicone di-electric grease on the spark plug insulator, the inside of the plug boots & on the inside of the distributor boots also.
Slide a hair pin inside the rubber boot when slipping the ignition wire onto the dist cap, to burp air out, so the plug wire will stay put. If you don't burp the boot, trapped air will act like a air spring & push it up & you might develope a engine miss.

Let us know how it goes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I had heard the part about using a lift on the engine. I had not heard the standing on head and praising the designers (but it sounds like something I would do)

We are having an ice storm now, so I won't be doing the job right away. I work in a car port that is closed on three sides and not heated.

It sounds like you can get a torque wrench on the back three plugs. That is good. I will do the planning and then, as soon as we have a bit of better weather, go ahead with the work.

I have some other problems that need to be solved on that car. My intention is to restore it.

Neal Lewis
[email protected]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
623 Posts
Bandages and disinfectant, and turn up a stereo so the neighbors don't hear you swearing left & right when you get to the back. I don't even attempt them myself, not worth the trouble (and no lift).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,447 Posts
Forgot to mention I also used OEM Motorcraft dist cap, rotor, wires & platinum plugs.

Also use nickel anti sieze on the plugs & torqued them to the low side of spec, since I was using the antisieze.

Also set the plugs gap to the min side of spec, so the gap would stay in spec longer, seeing as how it's always opening up & for those in real cold country, the closer gap might help on those sub zero starts this winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I recently did this job on my 92' Daunting task but it is doable without a lift. I removed the U pipe for more arm room.I sprawled myself on top of the motor to get at those back 3 plugs. If i recall i used a sparkplug socket with just the ratchet.I may have used a short extension in conjunction with but cannot recall.Turned them enough to just break the seal and then used rubber fuel line (slipped over the end of the plug)to thread them out. To install the new plugs i put the ends on some rubber fuel line and threaded them in far enough (do not cross thread) to get the ratchet in and tighten them.The others posts ring true.Mark the wires, do one at a time,etc... as pawpaw mentions. Also a trouble light or something that will illuminate the area will help navigate but your sense of touch is what it will come down to.This is why i used the rubber fuel line to start the new plugs threading. You think you will be angry getting the old ones out but wait till you drop the new plugs, have to crawl off the motor to fish it out if you can and then get back up,start over and then have it fall backdown.Can you say expletives LOL
Best of luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,800 Posts
Did it on my old '93 without a lift...I believe we removed just the intake. I think they were changed in '01 or '02, so it's been a while.

#1 tool you will need is patience...#2 is disinfectant and band-aids for the bloody knuckles :lol2: Or gloves, they'd work too if you have some that let you still feel what you're doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,022 Posts
holy i just remove the intake hose and then buy putting your hand in the back and feel around was a real easy job did not even do any scratch on my knucle

lol ok not first time but it an deasy job look witha good light you will find the perfect place to go in there
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,922 Posts
I just used a plain ratchet. No torque wrench or extensions or swivels. The bad thing about #1 is that round cylindrical item mounted on the firewall near that spark plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,022 Posts
yeah but still with ratchet and socket it fit

that the way i do it all the time
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well guys, three in front down. Three in back to go. It's snowing outside. I've got the car nose into the car port.

I have taken photos of each step and have been taking notes of what I am doing.

Thanks for the info and encouragement.

Neal
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Passenger's side rear spark plug out. New one in. Used 3/8" drive wrench and a 3/8" drive torque wrench. Not much space, but it can be done. I'm calling it quits for the evening.

Tomorrow guys.

Neal
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The spark plugs and wires have all been changed. I was able to get to the back three by removing the middle section of the air intake duct. There was enough room for a 3/8" drove torque wrench. I installed Bosch platinum +4 plugs and BWS (?) wires. I believe it does run better. I will try to get the procedure written up with pictures in the next three weeks.

Thanks again for your help and input.

Neal Lewis

P.S. No knuckles were skinned and no air was fouled. Did drop a socket a couple of times. WNL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,022 Posts
on a 3.8 with platinum +4 how man the car is gonna run bad and ****** in about 2 week

it gonna start idling bad you will have real good power but on the idle and and hard start from a stop the car is gonna act wierd

been there done that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I need to know where the spark plug wires go on my 3.0 ohv. The car is a 2001 but the engine is a replacement engine,(used), I was told it came out of the same car. If someone could tell me where on the coil pack the wires go, it would be greatly appreciated. I know the pistons are 123 on the back passenger side to the drivers side and the front are 456 from the passenger side to the drivers side. That is what the Haynes Manual says. Thanks for any help. I will check back later today.
Shomanship B)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
I have a '92 Taurus LX 3.8L just turned 100k. Time to do the plugs, wires, cap & rotor. I have the original Ford shop manual for the vehicle. Everything I've read is pretty much true about doing the plugs. I took the entire air cleaner assembly out, and the upper intake to get more room. Taking the plugs out wasn't fun but not bad if you have a 1/4" torque wrench to break them loose. I used the socket to hold the plugs and threaded by hand (DO NOT THREAD!!!! & DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN FOLLOW TORQUE SPEC if no you will regret!!!!) A few suggestions and tools needed, 1/4" torque wrench, plug socket, anti-seize, gapper, music(loud at times), gloves or band-aids.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
I changed the rear plugs last year while I had the heads off to replace the head gaskets. There was no way to get the wires off the plugs as the boots were rock hard from exhaust manifold heat. I ended up cutting the old spark plug wires before removing the head then had to split the boots with a knife to get them off. Fronts were much easier of course.

PS: Way to revive another old thread.....
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top