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Well, I can tell my 92 SHO Wagon is from the rust belt. If you look at the pick below, you can see why I decided to replace the entire rear suspension.
[attachmentid=28519]
I picked up everything from rotor to rotor at a pick and pull ($60 - no one wants taurus wagon parts!). Of course I have new rotors pads shocks and springs. Anyway Here's what I gotta do:

Remove tires - done
remove upper shock bolts - done
remove sway bar to axle bolts - done
remove swaybar to car bolts done - but, one snapped (see pic below), the other came off but the bolt wont move - I plan to use a c-clamp to get them off.
[attachmentid=28520]

Control arm to car - 15mil bolt - real afrid of snapping this one
Axle to center of car - look at what shape the bolts are in (1st picture) - what should I do here?
Two big big c shaped pipes from spindle to car. Attached at car w/18mm bolts/pipe - worried these'll snap as well.
[attachmentid=28521]

Cut E-brake lines - I have the short one from the donor.
And look at the brake lines - I am tempted to just take the hose off the caliper and put it on the new Caliper but I should deal with this - any suggestions?
[attachmentid=28523]

I have dowsed everything in PB Blaster to sit overnight. My compressor is in storage so no air tools. I have a dremel (but I think I would go through alot of cutting disks. and am thinking of buying a sawzall. Any input appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Someones gotta have dealt with stuff like this before...
 

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I havent taken off the suspention bolts yet, but I would be looking at replacing all those old rusted bolts if I was redoing the complete set up. Do it right and then you wont be sorry later. I would look at Harbor Freight to get one of those cheap electric grinders with the cut off wheels, that will make it much easier to get those old bolts off. You just have to be carefull to not cut mounting tabs while grinding.
 

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Well, I took another crack at it today w/o success. Yes, I have all new bolts. The problem is with the bushing bolts. Each bolt goes through the bracket on the car then through a metal sleave embeded in the rubber bushing. So, th bolt rusts onto the sleave, which inturn rusts onto the rubber bushings. So, when I get a nut off, or break one off, the bushing turns w/the bolt.

So I went and bought a sawzall today. It'sd the only think I can think of. Cut the bolts btween the bracket and whatever suspension peice I am trying to get off.

3 days and counting so far on mine. It only took me 2.5 hours to get the doner suspension off the junk yard car.
 

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zip gun
 

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Someones gotta have dealt with stuff like this before...
[/b]
Not here. Mine doesn't show the slightest trace of rust...... :D :p
 

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Well, I'm close to giving up. 3 days later and I've removed only 3 bolts out of 10 successfully - and 2 of those were the upper shock bolts which are protected.

I am at my ropes end here, even the bolts that are free (I've got the nut off) just turn, I'm assuming they've rusted to their sleaves which has inturn fused to the rubber on all of the bushings. I guess I'll call a mobile welder to come and get cut everything off.

I'm kind of suprised no one else seems to have had these issues.
 

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Many of us rust belt people... Just don't care...

My Contour was rusted up, and my Escort was severely rusted up...

So, I dunno if anyone who lives in a rust belt actually took the time to repair their suspension after it got infected with rust...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Many of us rust belt people... Just don't care...

My Contour was rusted up, and my Escort was severely rusted up...

So, I dunno if anyone who lives in a rust belt actually took the time to repair their suspension after it got infected with rust...
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I suppose I understand that. But I don't see how anyone could replace the springs on a Gen II wagon w/out removing some of these bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Done. Sawzall, a grinder and alot of cursing.

[attachmentid=28555]
 

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how and i live in the rust belt directly and when you have to replace you have to replace
 
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