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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 99 Taurus at an auction for $1200. 160,000km, Sunroof, leather buckets, mags, spoiler, keyless entry, 3.0L Duratec, etc.

There is oil coming from the rear of the engine. I believe it to be a rear main seal. I read that the tranny has to come out to replace it. I have done engine swaps and engine rebuilds before, so I am not intimidated to do this. What I want to know is how long of a job is it and what parts have to be replaced in the process? Is there anyother place the oil can be coming from besides the rear main seal?

Also, I currently drive a 97 GL with rear disks. If the new car does not have rear disks (I didn't look) can I swap mine for the other ones? Is it a pain? Does the master cylinder have to be replaced? I would swap the disks for the drums before I sell my current Taurus.

Many Thanks for the info,
Ian
 

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Yes you can swap the rear discs, and it's not that big a deal. No, you don't have the change the master cylinder.

As for the oil leaks, there are many places oil can leak from. One thing with the 'tec engine is that the crankcase is actually a 2-piece design, and the 2 halves are sealed with silicone. I've seen them leak at the joint. If you aren't positive where the leak is coming from, shampoo the hell out of the engine to clean it all up, then keep a close eye on it til you find the source of the leak.

If you have to do the rear main seal, the only thing i can think of off hand that you may need is the exhaust gasket between the y-pipe and the flex pipe, since you have to drop the y-pipe to remove the tranny. You might want to have new exhaust manifold studs and nuts on hand too, in case any break off.
 

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You need some sort of seal installation tool to replace the rear seal. I made mine out of PCV pipe fittings.
 

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BAS works well too ( big ass socket :p )

You might want to replace the torque converter seal while the trans is out. Change the filter and fluid blah blah blah...
Check out the sub frame bushings real well since they will have to be removed when you drop the sub frame. Check your motor mounts for play as well before you drop every thing. I mean hell since you there and can easily get to to every thing you may as well do it now right ? be a good time to replace the VSS since you will be able to get to it easily once the exhaust is removed. ( its only a matter of time before that little bastage goes. trust me. I think they were made with little self destruct programs in them or something LOL! )
Plan on buying new o2 sensors. If your like me and put the monkey grip on stuff you'll end up bending or breaking one. LOL!
What kind of shape are the CV's in ?
If its worth it and you can swing it change all you can see that may be an issue or is normally hard to get to for regular maintenance since you will be right there. Hell change the oil pan gasket too while your there, replace the pick up tube and filter and scrape the pan out real good.
( auction car remember. It probably needs it real bad any ways )
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had a mechanic at the auction's garage check out the car for $35. He said the rear main seal is only sweating, not leaking. If I'm lucky, a bottle of engine sealant will fix that for the time being.

He said there is a leak in one of the tranny lines that is squirting fluid onto the motor, if this is indeed the case, I think I lucked out.

OK, so the car is a 1999 SE. It has aluminum wheels in perfect condition. Beige leather buckets with floor shift, glass sunroof, rear spoiler, 4 wheel disks, 3.0l 24v Duratec, keyless entry, 160,000km (100,000miles), power seats.

I will post a pic when I get the car home from the auction tomorrow. I think $1400 (all taxes and inspections included.) is a good price for this car. Can't wait to get out of my current SLO and get into the buckets of this car.
 

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The leaky trans line is kinda scary.
Wonder how much leaked out and how long they drove it like that ?
They burn up quick when low on fluid :(
Sweating is a big old prelude to a leak. Change that seal. ;)
Engine sealant only cures the symptoms until it full on blows out and leaves you stuck. ( hate sealers )
AAaaaand..... are you 100% sure its oil leaking out and not trans fluid ?
A leaky torque converter seal will give you the same illusion cause' it leaks in the same spot.
Some times it a really slow leak and mixes with grime as it comes out. Looks dark brown on the pan until it starts leaking more and you see its actually red trans fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got the car home today and took a look. The front trans line has a pin hole in it , under the rad, where it goes from a rubber hose to metal tubing. The hole is in the metal tuning about two inches from the rubber hose. I will replace it tomorrow. This was spraying tranny fluid all over the bottom of the engine, the cross member and the bottom of the tranny.

Tomorrow I will track down the power steering leak and when I fix that, I will clean the bottom of the engine/tranny and run the car and see what is what with other leaks.

I can't see how the mechanic says the rear main is sweating when there is so much P/S fluid and tranny fluid all over everything.
 

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I agree. If you don't have the tranny out any speculation about the rear seal is just that.

Replace you steel tranny lines with 3/8" hose and the tranny/radiator fittings with brass hose barbs, 1/4" mNPT x 3/8" hose barbs.
 

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I can't see how the mechanic says the rear main is sweating when there is so much P/S fluid and tranny fluid all over everything.
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I'd like to know how he can see that the seal is "sweating" without having the tranny out of the car. "Sweating" means basically that it's just barely damp around the seal, and not even enough to drip. If that's the case, he wouldn't be able to see that without removing the tranny. If it was leaking enough to be worried about, there would be oil on the engine side of the flywheel and/or down the back of the engine and on the inspection cover on the bell housing.
 

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Mirror and flex light ?
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Good luck. You'd have to drop the sub frame to take the trans out.
 

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Still won't be able to actually see the seal unless you take off the flex plate too. Only way to know the rear seal is bad is if oil is dripping out of the TC inspection cover.
 

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Still won't be able to actually see the seal unless you take off the flex plate too. Only way to know the rear seal is bad is if oil is dripping out of the TC inspection cover.
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50/50 shot the debris guard is even there anymore any way. I have yet to see one older then 5 years with it still in place LOL!
You'd know it if it were bad though either way.

I think its coked any ways...
Check out his new post : http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=63334



:(
 

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Couldn't hurt at this point. And if it fixes it then it was indeed a good buy.
DO NOT forget unhook the battery for at least 10 minutes while your replacing the VSS. This will clear all codes. Then drive it easy and normal so it relearns shift patterns, fuel usage etc etc etc... if you get it in and floor it you'll have **** gas mileage the rest of the time you own it until you clear it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Couldn't hurt at this point. And if it fixes it then it was indeed a good buy.
DO NOT forget unhook the battery for at least 10 minutes while your replacing the VSS. This will clear all codes. Then drive it easy and normal so it relearns shift patterns, fuel usage etc etc etc... if you get it in and floor it you'll have **** gas mileage the rest of the time you own it until you clear it again.
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Good advise,

thanks,
Ian
 

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Yeahs if you don't unhook the battery or use a computer to clear the codes it wont even know it has a new part on it and act the same way it is right now.
( if that's the problem that is )
You know, before you spend money on the new VSS try clearing the codes and see if it immediately comes back to stumbling and stuff. SOMETIMES, (99.5% of the time this isn't so though ) some thing freaky happened and all you need to do is clear the codes. But don't count on it for definite a fix. Because like I said, 99.5% of the time there IS actually some thing wrong.
 

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No, the OBDII drive cycle test will clear a code on it's own if the problem is fixed. This may take a while though.
 
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