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I now don't post much on here just lurk once in a while as my Taurus is my daily driver, and don't do anything with it besides maintenance have another play toy that I'm working on. The car is a 94 with the 3.8.

Details leading up to the point of repaling it.I blew a heater hose last Friday and fixed that it got hot but never got to th epoint of overheating I pulled over and repaired it before it go to that point. I have also been having a probem with the gauge showing it is hotter than what it is recently but I think that is a ground issue as the ground bolt that attaches to the starter bolt is tight but you can move the cable. I had an issue a month ago where it kept coming loose and preventing teh car from starting. I was going to redo it but since it is tight and the nut not wanting to come off only turn I gave up on it, also at the time going through physical therapy for a torn rotater cuff. What is going on is the car always ran between the N and O now it is running between the M and A but it I turn the car off and just have it on forward accesory it is reading between the N and O and if I start it back up stays right around there until I start driving it. Sometimes stopping at a stoplight it also goes down.

With this I decided to replace the thermostat as the car has 180,000 miles on it and when I replaced teh radiator last year when I went to do it the way the gooseneck felt it felt like I was going to break it so figured I woul dtry it later and couldn't afford the car to be down at t hat time. So I replaced the thermostat and no have no heat. So far I have tested the new thermostat in boiling water and it does open, I did actually remove it and put the original back in and it still had no heat it also opened when tested but teh temp gauge is going up and looks liek it will overfheat. I did take it out and try it and it seemed like the heat was back but after putting it back in no heat again adn looked liek it wanted to overheat. I did try to burp the system on the ground and then put it on ramps. The radiator is getting warm and it the upper radiator hose did get warm and felt like coolant was going through it wasn't a full hose but coolant was flowing through. Did this just with the radiator cap off. And yes the thermostat is installed correctly with the spring brass part facing the motor. I thought of the water pump but why was it fine until now just after replacing the thermostat also thought about head gasket all fluids are fine but it could also be going into the cylinder as the past year in the winter after driving after an hour still had exhuast which with past cars I really haven't seen after that much drive time but not loosing any coolant. I know right now I have a small leak at the thermostat when starting it up and it seems like it keeps loosing up and so much easier to tighten when it is warm. I also think that the thermostat could have slipped down some when installing. I hate the way this is setup a big pain. So any ideas of what is going on and any pointers installing the thermostat so that it doesn't move?

All i really need is to get it running for a short while if needed at least 4 days next week and I have the rest of the year to work on it and check things out. I'm alreay thinking of doing a tune up on it and checking out the chambers to see if there is any coolant in them ( I had this happen to my probe) . I still have all power and it is running good.
 

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Putting the spring end towards the motor?

Is it full of coolant. This is usually the reason for no heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Putting the spring end towards the motor?

Is it full of coolant. This is usually the reason for no heat.
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Yes, spring end is towards motor.

Yes, coolant is full, actually I had it coming out when burbing the system and could see lots of little air bubbles adn overflow is full.

After all the reading and research I have done it really sounds like maybe an air pocket I thought putting it up on the ramps was going to help. Maybe there is a special way to do it with the Taurus I know what I read it sounds like the heater core is actually higher than the radiator and to purge a system of air the opening needs to be at the highest point.
 

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If the system is free from leaks and the pressure cap is good it will purge the air by itself after two or three cooling cycles. Just keep the overflow full.
 

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I have no experience with the 3.8.

When I put a new radiator in my 94GL 3.0 I put a radiator in it and I could not get the air out of it until I put it back up in the air and burped it for several minutes by squeezing the upper radiator hose.

I know that sounds crazy but I couldn't get the air out of it any other way.

Mike
:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually it doesn't sound crazy, I was actually doing that.

I will try doing it in several cycles tomorrow morning before heading out to the Palace for an event I got free tickets for, and teh wife told me to go and take a break from this, and I actually just did this to my van but of course no problems. I've only tried one cycle and I know I have to redo the thermostat again as it had a small leak when I tested it yesterday, and it was hissing pretty good but I know before I had no leaks. No wonder I wasn't looking forward to this even though it should have been real simple. And of course my weekend is pretty booked by my wife and have no garage which sucks.
 
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