[InspectorWILL]

Then out of nowhere it started squeaking. Didnt know at the time what the squeak was so I kept on driving. All of a sudden one day I'm driving home and notice smoke coming from under my hood. I could smell antifreeze. I was still on the road and almost home. I make it home and as soon as im out of the car I go to the front of the car and notice antifreeze pouring out of where the water pump is and I noticed that one of the spindles are too close to another and it seems to be cutting into the belt. Can anyone tell me what happened?

 

[Dappersworth]

Is the coolant pouring out between the waterpump and the timing cover? And do you mean pulleys by spindles?

 

[InspectorWILL]

When the coolent was pouring out I couldnt tell exactly where it was pouring out from but I do know it was coming out from under the coolent reservoir I thought it might be coming out from a overflow valve but after it cooled down I looked and did not see a overflow valve in that area. Yes I do mean pulleys when I said spindles sorry. I'll try and take a pic for a better visual.

 

[Dappersworth]

That looks to me like the tensioner malfunctioned and the tensioner pulley started rubbing on the water pump pulley, you might have to replace the tensioner assembly, the water pump and of course the belt.

 

[InspectorWILL]

So I attempted to resolve the problem. After looking at it wasn't the tensioner pulley that was out of line. It was the pulley on the water pump it had totally broken off on the inside somewhere because the pulley just spins freely and loosely. So I searched around found plenty of tutorials on how to change a waterpump on my type of car and all of them were the same they all seem pretty simple so I started my attempt. I got all the way to where you need to take the tensioner pulley off to access the rest of the bolts on the water pump. And for some reason I couldn't tell you I was able to pull the tensioner without problem to get the serpentine belt off using a t-50 because it was the only one that fit in there. As I went to start removing the bolt apparently the same had been stripped out and it wasn't by me. I tried everything I can I even have JB quick weld on there right now trying to let it Harden to see if I can use that to help me remove it I have the key 50 big JB welded to the bolt itself. If anybody has any useful tips on removing bolts like those. I'm very inexperienced at these types of things and I can come up what things to try all day long but I can guarantee you that my attempt will get me nowhere they stayed because all I can think of is to try and drill it out. But I'm not even experienced enough to even try to attempt that

 

[MERCrunner]

Those torx head bolts were a bad idea when it comes to removing parts. It takes very little to strip the insides if they are overly tight or rusted. I wish I could offer some easy solution...but unfortunately, if the JB Weld doesn't get the job done, you will probably end up drilling it out. And, that won't be an easy proposition due to the space constraints. Best of luck.

 

[chartmaker]

Those torx head bolts were a bad idea when it comes to removing parts. It takes very little to strip the insides if they are overly tight or rusted. I wish I could offer some easy solution...but unfortunately, if the JB Weld doesn't get the job done, you will probably end up drilling it out. And, that won't be an easy proposition due to the space constraints. Best of luck.

Torx was made for factory auto installing machines. Bit holds the bolt in place and is very strong. Good removal requires quality tool and the correct size. Have seen 3 sizes that appear to fit, but only the largest is correct. Wong size can ruin the bolt. If the bolt is rusty, might need to tap the correct tool in.
Torx is a way of life, get used to it. The progression of sizes make no sense.
-chart-

 

[snosaint]

Yup, many things these days are only made for ease in putting things together. As my brother inlaw who works on many cars including mine says...you will often find things like quick connect fittings. That pretty much rules out tham being quick disconnect fittings...