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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When I was finished fixing the lower ball joints on my 2000 Ford Taurus, the battery died so I got a new one to replace it. That didn't fix it, so I found out that the chip in my aftermarket key died. (the theft alarm bilnked rapidly for about a minute and then blinked once with a pause then three times, which I guess must have been the code for a defective key). Luckily I had a dealership key that worked fine. I pulled the car out and gave it a test drive with a friend and it drove fine. The car squeaked when braking because so much rust had accumulated on rotors from the two weeks or so that they were inactive. I drove around the block once and parked in my driveway. This involved both right and left turns so what happened next confused me. Later, I was pulling it out of my driveway in drive and into the neighbor's approach directly across the street in order to back out and park it on the street. When I was pulling it out to park it on the street, I heard a heavy grinding noise from the front right of the car. This happened when I was turning the wheel to back out of someone's approach. I looked at the wheel and it turned out that the lower control arm tore some of the metal off of the rim or the front right side of the car. I had someone watch me turn the wheel to back it out, but I ended up breaking the lower ball joint off on the right side. Before this happened, I heard a rapid knocking sound, that would be typical of a ball joint breaking in this kind of situation. I got out and looked at the front of the car to find out that the left wheel was slightly toed out while the right wheel was very toed out.

I ended up calling a tow truck man to back the car into my driveway. He thought that it was something related to the tie-rod. I remember taking off the tie-rod on the left side because I thought I had to replace it since the bolt would not start by itself. I decided not to get a new tie-rod end because I could just hold the stem with a vice-grip and the nut would go on relatively easy. I put the tie-rod back on to where the adjusting nut was when I took it off in the first place.

Also, before I took the car out for a test drive, the toe was not that bad on either wheel. The camber was very bad, but I just assumed that that was because I had to remove the strut bolt from the knuckle.

I know I'm going to need a new LBJ and possibly a new LCA as well.

Here's the rim after the LCA grinded a circle:

The right side tie-rod end:

A general picture of what happened:

Several shots of the LCA hole:

View of the left side tie-rod end:

On second thought, the LCA doesn't look too bad, I might keep it upon further inspection.
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