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Discussion Starter #1
I have read several posts on how-to. They all say lift the engine on the oil pan just enough to clear the mounts, and replace one at a time.

Here is the procedure from 2005 shop manual.

1. Remove air cleaner
2. Remove cowl vent screen
3. Remove anti-roll strut (top mount)
4. install engine lift bracket
5. remove catalytic converter
6. remove valance panel
7. remove RH catalytic converter shield.
8. Remove engine mount and transmission mount nuts.
9. Lift the engine using a special tool for 2", and replace engine mounts one at a time.

Will someone comment on this procedure? What damage am I risking if I don't remove cat converter? Thanks.
 

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You won't need to. At least, I didn't need to when I replaced my motor mounts on my Duratec.

You won't need to replace the lower rear mount, and that is literally just a bolt with a bushing around it, and gets very, very little wear. The top mount (dogbone) and the front mount are going to be the ones that get wear and will need to be replaced.

JR
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a related question.
The engine-transmission rolls back and forth by nature. I suppose that's why pipes and tubings have rubber hose sections, drive axles have CV boots, and various supports are made of rubber. What about the catalytic converter-exhaust pipe? Does it have a flexible joint to take care of engine movement? Or is it fixed to the chassis with rubberized brackets from end to end?
 

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The earlier Tauri had flex pipes, but the dogbone on the gen 4 is supposed to reduce engine movement enough that a flex pipe isn't necessary. All exhausts have rubber hangers to prevent exhaust noise/vibration from transferring into the cabin.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
......The earlier Tauri had flex pipes, but the dogbone on the gen 4 is supposed to reduce engine movement enough that a flex pipe isn't necessary. .......[/b]
I crawled underneath the car one last time to scope out the engine mount replacement project. I found a short section (about an inch or two long) of convoluted pipe covered with wire mesh immediately downstream of Y-pipe. Is this the flex pipe?

I read in this forum about lowering subframe (is this the turtle shell at the very bottom of the engine?). I feel a little uncomfortable to lift engine by 2" on the back for rear motor mount. Can I lower subframe an inch and lift engine an inch instead?

Thanks.
 

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No. The subframe is basically the engine cradle, and the mounts are connected to the subframe, so lowering the subframe does nothing unless you're supporting the engine. You need to use a block of wood and a jack on the oil pan to lift the engine.

Also, you do not need to replace the rear, lower mount. It's just a bolt with a bushing, like I said. There is very little movement associated with it, and it very rarely wears out.

JR
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for explaining how engine is connected to subframe. It's hard for me to see how different parts are connected through what.

The rear mount was the only one that's visibly damaged. Rubber was cracked into 3 pieces, and the through-bolt sagged about 1/2". What a bargain did I buy! I mean this '05 Taurus.

I will need your help as this project progresses. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: The reason I asked about lowering subframe was if the approach would minimize the stress on the exhaust system that is still attached to the engine.
 
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