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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've got a mach unit with the 6disc changer in that I pulled out of a junkyard a year or so ago. Got the tweeters too, still the original speakers as the tweeters. Aftermarket 6X9's in the doors and the rear deck (cut the holes alot bigger, mounted the speakers on mdf, bolted to the deck with sound deadener between the mdf and deck. All because originally I was too lazy to go back to bestbuy to get the right size. lol) I don't remember the specs on the speakers, plan on getting new tweeters when I get the amp. So anyway we're always for better sound, so I was thinking of adding an amp for the six speakers. Any recommendations on one and if so, how the hell is it wired? I'm assuming the wires that go out from mach unit to the speakers will instead go to the amp then to speakers? I've never wired an amp before, but I'm very familiar with all other car wiring.
 

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Most amplifiers get their signal from RCA inputs, so your system need to have an RCA out somewhere. However, since you don't mention that you have an aftermarket head unit, I guess that you don't have the necessary pre-amp out anywhere. If you need to install an aftermarket amplifier you need one of two things:

1. Replace your head unit for something else. Ideally with at least two sets of preamp outputs.

2. Get an amplifier with a line input converter or an get a normal amplifier and a separate line input converter. The line input converter will connect into normal speaker wire, get preamp signal, then send it to amplifier.

Some people would disagree, but I prefer to install an after market head unit because you can get it with bluetooth and mp3/USB/iPod support. However, if you like your 6-disk setup, go for line input converter solution.

If you buy new speakers for the doors, buy component speakers, throw away the factory tweeters and use the new ones instead. The only thing that'd worry me is that you cut larger holes in doors. The selection of 6x9 component systems is narrower than the selection of 6x8 component systems which is a lot narrower than the selection of 6-1/2 inch component systems. However, if you do find a good 6x9 system, it may be for better, because 6x9 should produce better bass relatively efficiently with less power.
 

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PS: for the actual wires, try searching this web site for wiring diagrams. If you take the line input route, you will cut the speaker wire that comes out of the RCU, and plug it into amp/input converter, and then the end that goes to the speaker is plugged into the amplifier output port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks, I'll look into the line input converter. I would like to use an aftermarket head unit, but it doesn't seem cost efficient since ya gotta get the new face too. So I figure why not keep it looking stock, but with the best sound. I would love to be able to hook up my phone/mp3 player to the car, and I'm sure if I think about it long enough I could figure out how... unless of course somehere already did then hookitup and let me know how! No, I didn't cut the doors, the 6x9's fit fairly well into the doors with no modification. The rear deck needed to be cut, which didn't go well, so I mounted the speakers in mdf then bolted that to deck. As far as wiring diagrams go, I have access to ford's tech website so that's no worry.

Oh yeah, as far as an amp goes, any recommendations on specs? I'm assuming 4 channel for the six speakers, er, other than that I don't really know what I'm doing...
 

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It would be nice if you found an amplifier with built in speaker level input because otherwise speaker level input converter is another piece of equipment that you would have to buy and install..

If I was shopping for myself I would buy this amplifier:

VIBE Audio BBSTEREO4 1400W Max Black Box 4-Channel Car Amplifier

It has built-in speaker level converters and ample power:

4 ohms: 110 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 175 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 350 watts x 2 chan.

I don't know if it's too expensive for you, but it has built in speaker level input. You could run relatively power speaker off it, like Alpine Type R or Type-X PRO or you could bridge two channels and connect a subwoofer, 350 watts is plenty for a good subwoofer. Here is another, slightly cheaper, less powerful model:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23737_VIBE-Audio-LiteBox-Stereo-4-LiteBox4.html

Maybe something like a lower end Kenwood would also work

Kenwood 4-Channel Amplifiers (Speaker Level Inputs: Yes) | Car Amplifiers | Car Audio | Car Audio, Video & GPS at Sonic Electronix

Kenwood and VIBE are regarded as Ok entry level amplifiers. I have had good experiences with Jensen amplifiers. They're strictly entry-level and they don't have speaker level input, but they're cheap.
 

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Thanks, I'll look into the line input converter. I would like to use an aftermarket head unit, but it doesn't seem cost efficient since ya gotta get the new face too. So I figure why not keep it looking stock, but with the best sound. I would love to be able to hook up my phone/mp3 player to the car, and I'm sure if I think about it long enough I could figure out how... unless of course somehere already did then hookitup and let me know how! No, I didn't cut the doors, the 6x9's fit fairly well into the doors with no modification. The rear deck needed to be cut, which didn't go well, so I mounted the speakers in mdf then bolted that to deck. As far as wiring diagrams go, I have access to ford's tech website so that's no worry.

Oh yeah, as far as an amp goes, any recommendations on specs? I'm assuming 4 channel for the six speakers, er, other than that I don't really know what I'm doing...
My '96 Taurus is running with a Mach amp, still has the stock head unit. Mine also has iPod integration and a mounting dock that keeps it in easy reach and charges the unit. It cost less than a head unit and face plate and the harnesses that are needed, it looks clean since it is mostly stock, it sounds great. I've gotten quite a few comments about it.

Crutchfield has all the stuff you need, you need an iPod interface, some sufficiently long RCA cables, and the AUX PIE adapter. Some adapters provide just an aux input, others are designed more specifically for the iPods and allow basic iPod control through the head unit. I opted for the iPod controls since I am using a mount kit that keeps the iPod within easy reach, navigating the iPod controls is easy enough for me. I got the mounts at Device Holders and Dashboard Vehicle Mounts - ProClip Car Mounts for Mobile Phones, GPS, and Handheld Devices. I went with the iPhone 3G holder with the pass through, so I just set my phone in, and it connects.

The AUX-PIE adapter replaces the stock CD changer, you will no longer be able to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I honestly never even thought of looking for this because I didn't they existed.

Car Selector

I don't car about getting rid of the cd changer, it skips to easily anyway, and I'm too lazy to change them out (same six cd's still in it from the time I first installed it). Pissa thanks
 

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if you want great sound with pure power go to zedaudio.com i have never had a bad amp from steve. you can spend less but the sound wont be the best
 
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