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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So my pass side rear toe link has some play in it. I want to change it out, but have a hard time determining it's appropriate replacement.

When I search on Fordparts with my VIN, Part number 5A972 is what's shown.

SO on a few different sites, I input my info and this is what I see.



Quite a big difference in cost. painted calipers? Was that even an option?

I've checked other sites as well, and some list only one, while others list both as being compatible.

So basically i'm confused as to which to get
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So I ordered a single "cheaper" one. Main difference is bushing eyelet is different.

Will it make a difference?

Not my pics, but seem Ford Flex guys are also wondering if the cheaper one can be used

https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15871

https://m.imgur.com/gallery/3uZyV

Pics show the difference between the two. Question is now, do I install, or just order the correct one for about $150




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Short answer: I suggest calling Tasca or the Ford part source of your choice to verify the interchangeability and let us know what you find.

Long answer: The parts look to be 'functionally identical' to me as a mechanical engineer. The more expensive part has welded assemblies at the ends, while the cheaper part is cast. The cast part is likely as good as the welded part. It would be nice to confirm that the internal diameter and width of the sleeve that the bolt passes through are the same, but they appear to be. Since the mechanic that installed the cheaper parts on the Flex didn't note any issues, that's (hopefully) good... If it were me, I'd call to learn what I could and buy the cheaper part if there is no clear disadvantage given for its use.

The whole 'painted calipers' issue is confusing terminology. I've wondered about it when I've seen it while searching for parts as well.

Please let us know how it goes...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I've found a few references to "painted caliper" when searching for various parts. Really confusing as to what that actually refers to and why it matters with things such as rear shocks.

I'm also an ME and came to the same conclusion that the two parts are probably functionally the same. I actually ended up ordering the more expensive link as well as some photos I've found show it to look identical as the 1-peice cast version. No dealer could tell me if the photo was correct. I want to have both in hand and physically compare them in hand to see if there is a difference. If they are the same, i'll return the more expensive one, or just toss it on ebay and take a $10-20 loss. We are talking $48 shipped, vs $130 shipped from Tasca (which is local to me).

Calling vendors really hasn't clarified much. When I give my vin, the more expensive one comes up. But when I ask by part number, the cheaper one is compatible. There are a few superceeded part numbers as well, so there have been a few revisions. I'm more confused now.

The engineering part number breakdown suggests the more expensive one is correct

DE9Z : D= 2013, E9 = lincoln MKT
DG1Z: D = 2013, G1 = Taurus

Really, there are two ways to look at this. 1) is my life worth taking the risk for $80? or 2) the parts are equivalent from a functional, and safety standpoint..so why overpay $80? I certainly want to install the correct part, but if they are the "same" then why pay more?


I should have the other in hand in a few days. I'll post some pics and take some measurements. I have 30 days to return the one I don't use.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So this is interesting.

SO I ordered BOTH links in the original post. I wanted to put them side by side and compare to see if the cheap ones were a viable alternative.

DG1Z-5A972-B: $121.80 shipped
DE9Z-5A972-C: $48.05 shipped.

So almost a $75 difference between the two. Tasca confirmed the cheaper part number would not work in my car, and the DG1Z part number was correct. Of course, they are also going by what a computer tells them.

I fully expected to receive two different links. But no. They are the same. I cannot discern any sort of difference between the two. Broke out my calipers and measured a few key dimensions and they are the same. I thought the bushing might have a different durometer? Nope. Same part number on the bushing. (E816N). Bolt fits the same in both. Same casting marks, same nuts on the shaft, same ball-joint end, part number on the ball joint boot. Same clip.

There's a label on the ball joint end with two different part numbers. DE93-5A972-BE and DG13-5A972-AC. I can't really find much info on those part numbers nor are they orderable anywhere.

In a nutshell, i cannot determind what differences (if any) exist between the two links. Therefore, i will return the more expensive link, and run the cheaper one with full confidence.




 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just got done installing it. 30 mins from lugnuts off to wheels down. My electric impact didn't have the mustard to zip off the chassis bolt so I had to drag out the compressor and air impact.

But here's the part number of old one, and the bushing in the end is exactly the same. Has the same numbers molded into it

The balljoint end had some play in it. Seems to be a theme with these Ford style balljoints to fail early

IMG_8494.jpg
IMG_8495.jpg


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Thanks for performing this investigation! There looks to be a weird swirl on the end of the inner bolt sleeve in the lower part in the second photo. Is that real? I'm referring to yesterday's set of four pictures.
 

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Great finding! Thanks for letting us all know! I dont notice any play in mine, but ive replaced just about every steering/ suspension part on the front in the last year(Control arms, cv shafts, struts, tie rods, end links), and the back end is on my list since im almost at 120k miles.
 
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