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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. I searched the postings for info on fuel filter clips but could not find the same situation. I have a 2005 Ford Taurus manufactures in 09/04. I removed the clips from the filter. On the front downstream side the clip was broken already and I pulled the two prongs out. It looks conventional and matches a set I bought at the auto store. Of course this one did not match the one that came with the filter.

The problem is with the back upstream side. They look like two separate clips. One busted as I pulled it out. The other is intact but old and brittle. They do not look anything like those hairpin styles I have seen in the postings. Does anyone know anything about these? Here are two pics of them at different angles. Now remember this is just for the upstream side. Two clips. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

6257BF93-044C-48E1-8E02-1E8892D93635.jpeg
9015D845-8AA6-4D31-91EC-6B8DD7608199.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi everyone. I searched the postings for info on fuel filter clips but could not find the same situation. I have a 2005 Ford Taurus manufactures in 09/04. I removed the clips from the filter. On the front downstream side the clip was broken already and I pulled the two prongs out. It looks conventional and matches a set I bought at the auto store. Of course this one did not match the one that came with the filter.

The problem is with the back upstream side. They look like two separate clips. One busted as I pulled it out. The other is intact but old and brittle. They do not look anything like those hairpin styles I have seen in the postings. Does anyone know anything about these? Here are two pics of them at different angles. Now remember this is just for the upstream side. Two clips. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

View attachment 217513 View attachment 217514
The plot thickens because I have seen the two clips in these two ads but they have the same product number for each.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I attached the new filter. I put the clip in the front of the filter and it fit perfectly. I put the two original clips for the upstream side of the filter ( one’s broken) and wrapped it with electrical tape. I then secured the hose to the body of the fuel filter with electrical tape and called it a day. My local parts store is looking for the clips. I’m sure they’ll be way more than the filter. :)
 

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I have been using zip ties as the clips fail on the 05 Tec and 06 Vulcan for several years with zero leaks or other issues. Easy to loop thru the holes / slots in the ends of the fuel lines at the filter, and super easy to remove... snip it and and pull out. I would bet zip ties are stronger than the fragile OEM clips

WHY did Ford change the clip style from the 80's clip style???? They were designed for one use, and were trivial to remove and install, and new filters almost always came with 2 new clips, and if extra clips were needed, every parts store had them for around a quarter a piece.
 

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I have been using zip ties as the clips fail on the 05 Tec and 06 Vulcan for several years with zero leaks or other issues. Easy to loop thru the holes / slots in the ends of the fuel lines at the filter, and super easy to remove... snip it and and pull out. I would bet zip ties are stronger than the fragile OEM clips

WHY did Ford change the clip style from the 80's clip style???? They were designed for one use, and were trivial to remove and install, and new filters almost always came with 2 new clips, and if extra clips were needed, every parts store had them for around a quarter a piece.
If it ain't broke, Ford will fix it. My '03 Sable wagon, and my '03 Sable sedan have different clips. The sedan had the arrow head one, and the wagon has the slim rectangle ones. And my past '01 had 3 clips, different sizes. I used a mirror and light to see that my '03 Taurus has the slim rectangle. Plan to do the filter in the Spring.
And if I bought the Fram fuel filter, it would come with the arrow head clips which would be useless to me.
Zip ties make a lot of sense in the field. The clips work in the factory for assembly as they are a ratchet latch for easy assembly.
-chart-
 

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Agree on the ease of assembly on the assembly line.

Same for many other of the "impossible to access" parts on every car on the road. Parts and where they are located in the car / under the hood are designed for ease of assembly on the assembly line. Ease of repair is VERY low on the list of priorities during the design phase.

I saw this in action first hand when I worked in R&D in the power generation / distribution industry back in the early thru late 80s. Lowest production cost while still retaining high reliability were by far more important than ease of repair in the field.
 

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Agree on the ease of assembly on the assembly line.

Same for many other of the "impossible to access" parts on every car on the road. Parts and where they are located in the car / under the hood are designed for ease of assembly on the assembly line. Ease of repair is VERY low on the list of priorities during the design phase.

I saw this in action first hand when I worked in R&D in the power generation / distribution industry back in the early thru late 80s. Lowest production cost while still retaining high reliability were by far more important than ease of repair in the field.
It's funny though when average joes think they're smarter than the engineers that made these cars over those types of decisions though. Yes, if you could make any decision you wanted in a vacuum, any car would be easy to work on...lol
 

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It's funny though when average joes think they're smarter than the engineers that made these cars over those types of decisions though. Yes, if you could make any decision you wanted in a vacuum, any car would be easy to work on...lol
The sad part is that there arent any cars built anymore with serious concern for ease of repairs. They real concern is the assembly line and how they can dumb it down and speed it up. Many of the connections are called quick connect and are located in places you can only reach with half the car apart and that is the reason they are not called quick disconnects!
 

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I have my one and only GM product, Buick Lucerne with the 3.9L engine as in the pic. GM gave the designers a "clean sheet of paper" and this it the engine they came up with. Worth note. Change the belt, 5 minutes if I have a 3/8" ratchet. On my Lin Cont past, 2 hours if you know the pattern. This engine in the pic, 15 minutes to change the Alt, 2.5 hours for the Lin, ~2 hours on the G-4 DOHC. I had to have the water pump replaced on the Buick, 1 hour shop labor. On my Lin, if I had to do the pump, I would trade the car. Our son traded his Town & Country when the pump started to leak when he looked up the 3 page procedure. This engine on the Buick is iron block push rod and it has loads of low end torque, 8.0 seconds 0-60. The oil filter is vertical so easy to change. Other ideas of the designers. The coolant is over flow save system like the old school, easy to add and see level. Pressure cap up highest place on engine so easy to fill with no air issues. Very compact engine with lots of space around it to work on as needed. Battery under the rear seat where it is not exposed to engine bay heat. Fuel pump and filter access if in the trunk through a door. Voltage regulator is on the firewall rather than in the Alt where it is HOT. My last Lin had 2 voltage reg fails in 40K miles I had it.
And, GM used this engine 4 years and ended the car and engine.
I bought this car used 3 years a go as I needed a column shift with open front seat so my wife can fasten her seat belt, or I can reach it for her. I had 5 Lin Cont's with column shift and they are a thing of the past.
Car makers are in business to make money. Buyers rarely look at cost of maintenance. The old Lins, as well as this Buick: I doubt that more than 10% of the owners know how to use the menu's.The Buick has 20 pages in the guide on how to set the menu options.
Oh well I am 81 and may not ever buy another car for us.
-chart-
 

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The part number for the one on the right is 4F1Z-9A317-AA, its available from Auveco the part number is 21214.
I've got a partial box left from when I broke the exact same clip and the parts place would only order a full box it was around $12 for the box.
 

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I have my one and only GM product, Buick Lucerne with the 3.9L engine as in the pic. GM gave the designers a "clean sheet of paper" and this it the engine they came up with. Worth note. Change the belt, 5 minutes if I have a 3/8" ratchet. On my Lin Cont past, 2 hours if you know the pattern. This engine in the pic, 15 minutes to change the Alt, 2.5 hours for the Lin, ~2 hours on the G-4 DOHC. I had to have the water pump replaced on the Buick, 1 hour shop labor. On my Lin, if I had to do the pump, I would trade the car. Our son traded his Town & Country when the pump started to leak when he looked up the 3 page procedure. This engine on the Buick is iron block push rod and it has loads of low end torque, 8.0 seconds 0-60. The oil filter is vertical so easy to change. Other ideas of the designers. The coolant is over flow save system like the old school, easy to add and see level. Pressure cap up highest place on engine so easy to fill with no air issues. Very compact engine with lots of space around it to work on as needed. Battery under the rear seat where it is not exposed to engine bay heat. Fuel pump and filter access if in the trunk through a door. Voltage regulator is on the firewall rather than in the Alt where it is HOT. My last Lin had 2 voltage reg fails in 40K miles I had it.
And, GM used this engine 4 years and ended the car and engine.
I bought this car used 3 years a go as I needed a column shift with open front seat so my wife can fasten her seat belt, or I can reach it for her. I had 5 Lin Cont's with column shift and they are a thing of the past.
Car makers are in business to make money. Buyers rarely look at cost of maintenance. The old Lins, as well as this Buick: I doubt that more than 10% of the owners know how to use the menu's.The Buick has 20 pages in the guide on how to set the menu options.
Oh well I am 81 and may not ever buy another car for us.
-chart-
Reminds me of working on the (older) Vulcan for the most part. Pushrod engines are small, and pretty much everything is easy to get to.
 

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Reminds me of working on the (older) Vulcan for the most part. Pushrod engines are small, and pretty much everything is easy to get to.
The 60 degree is a very compact and light weight design. Many V-6 using the 90 degree are bulky, heavy and hard to work on. The Essex for example was designed for rear wheel and then put in front wheel and it was tight. I had 7 of them and really hated them. GM used the 3.8 which was 90 degree throw back to the 60's when they used 90 degree because GM only had machined to work on 90 degree blocks. GM kept that engine up into the mid '00's. I drove a lucerne with that engine and it was, smooth, quiet, lazy. Filled the engine bay. The 3.9 60 degree the opposite. Not as smooth, not as quiet, and FAR from lazy.
The Vulcan was the technology of '86, while the modular OHC V-8 was the technology of ~'92. Then the Intech DOHC was a beast, around '95. After that, I do not keep up on what they build. Water pumps inside the engine is horrible idea. Engines that shut off when you stop and restart when you step on the gas bad but there ways to fix that.
-chart-
.
 

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The 60 degree is a very compact and light weight design. Many V-6 using the 90 degree are bulky, heavy and hard to work on. The Essex for example was designed for rear wheel and then put in front wheel and it was tight. I had 7 of them and really hated them. GM used the 3.8 which was 90 degree throw back to the 60's when they used 90 degree because GM only had machined to work on 90 degree blocks. GM kept that engine up into the mid '00's. I drove a lucerne with that engine and it was, smooth, quiet, lazy. Filled the engine bay. The 3.9 60 degree the opposite. Not as smooth, not as quiet, and FAR from lazy.
The Vulcan was the technology of '86, while the modular OHC V-8 was the technology of ~'92. Then the Intech DOHC was a beast, around '95. After that, I do not keep up on what they build. Water pumps inside the engine is horrible idea. Engines that shut off when you stop and restart when you step on the gas bad but there ways to fix that.
-chart-
.
The Intech eventually turned into the modern Coyote, the ultimate evolution of the 30 year modular architecture. The new Gen 3 actually displaces 307 cubic inches too, so it's actually a 5L unlike the old Windsor 302. All aluminum, 90 degree 32 valve V8. It's a fat engine though, compared to the compact GM modern LT1 offering (which is pushrod like the 3.9). Has dual injection (port and direct), intake and exhaust camshaft phasers, and makes a nice noise, lol. Also has a whopping 12:1 compression ratio. It's not too bad to work on either since all the accessories face the front of the car.
217542
 

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Did all of you know that the Intech 32v motor is a Cobra designed by Shelby?
 

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Hi everyone. I searched the postings for info on fuel filter clips but could not find the same situation. I have a 2005 Ford Taurus manufactures in 09/04. I removed the clips from the filter. On the front downstream side the clip was broken already and I pulled the two prongs out. It looks conventional and matches a set I bought at the auto store. Of course this one did not match the one that came with the filter.

The problem is with the back upstream side. They look like two separate clips. One busted as I pulled it out. The other is intact but old and brittle. They do not look anything like those hairpin styles I have seen in the postings. Does anyone know anything about these? Here are two pics of them at different angles. Now remember this is just for the upstream side. Two clips. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

View attachment 217513 View attachment 217514
Did all of you know that the Intech 32v motor is a Cobra designed by Shelby?
clips and fastener web site you buy a box of each size. if you break any of the hose clips on your car. ford wants you to purchase a new hose or tubing assembly. also clean tubing attached to throttle body on that engine they plug up. also throttle body oring fails and gives you numerous codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I did find the larger of the two clips and installed it. Here it is sitting loose and installed.

843DF5FB-4801-4968-93EE-40F8FA4008E3.jpeg 5CBF1699-F48E-4FA6-9115-FDB4F72F69E8.jpeg
 
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